Drop starting saws

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You drop start your chain saws:

  • Always, every time, no matter what

    Votes: 174 38.7%
  • Mostly (unless the safety boss is around)

    Votes: 51 11.3%
  • Usually (unless I am feeling guilty or safety minded)

    Votes: 54 12.0%
  • Sometimes (only when the dang thing will not start)

    Votes: 53 11.8%
  • Rarely (only when the mother-in-law is in town)

    Votes: 51 11.3%
  • Never, every time, no matter what

    Votes: 64 14.2%
  • Other (I let someone else start my saws)

    Votes: 3 0.7%

  • Total voters
    450
OK boys and girls, we all know that we should put the saw on the ground or on a stump and put your foot on the bottom of the handle and use the pull starter in that position. But really... how many of us really do that? So here is a poll to find out if you are an OSHA trained safety team tree removal specialist or a wild sawyer in the woods related to Bigfoot.

:popcorn: :popcorn: Popcorn anyone??? :popcorn: :popcorn:

If I can't put it on the ground and put my foot on it, I use my left hand to hold the handle, and put the grip firmly between my knees. I use my right hand to pull start the saw. (being careful that the bar is not near anything that it could strike and cause it to come back at me, or damage any thing) This way it is in my control the whole time. I never drop start a saw. Try it it works great.
 
I always start them with the rear handle between my legs, whatever that is called. Actually dropping the saw just feels weird to me, although when I warm start a lighter saw, I will do that pretty often. I do tend to engage the chain brake then as well.
 
It is in fact a valid point, at least limbing smaller limbs at a high rate, but not a very important one overall.

The gyro effect from the rotating chain will of course be less notisable, when the bar is closer to the weight axis.......

I just found it futile to get it into some peoples head, and gave up.....:biggrinbounce2: :laugh: :laugh:

Hmmm, I see. I was referring to the centrifugal effect. That being the centrifugal force of the spinning crank, which for example, drives the clutch (the spin forces the clutch out expanding the springs and locking the cranckshaft to the sprocket drive). Someone else posted that there is a centrifugal effect of the spin on the chain, and that makes the saw cut differet on the top and bottom of the bar. I do not believe that centrifugal force is the cause of any difference in cutting off the top or bottom of the bar though. The centrifugal force (outward spin) of the chain is the same on the top and the bottom of the bar. I think that the cutting difference between top and bottom of the bar is due to it beong far easier to applly force to the bottom of the bar than to the top (weight of the saw and handles used as levers). I also think that there is a difference doe to the chain being pushed along the top (with some chain slack) vs the chain being pulled along the bottom (again, with some chain slack).

Now on to the gyro effect (my bad here, I though that the discussion was centrifugal force and not angular momentum). Angular momentum is the force that results in resistance to moving the saw to the left or right, or rolling the saw over to either side. The spin of the crank, flywheel and clutch/sprocket, and to some effect chain are all creating a torque along the axis of the crankshaft spin, which is angular momentum (or gyro effect). You can feel this effect with just about any chainsaw at full throttle; you can easilly rotate the chainsaw bar up and down in the 'kickback' motion, but if you pivot the bar from left to right to roll it over to the left or right there is a noticable resistance to that motion. There was some debate online a while back about the Texas Chainsaw Massacre movie people not being able to move chainsaws the way that they did on film because of the resistance of angular momentum.

Anyway, the effects are not that noticable in any chainsawing that I have done. Just do not try to move the saw to fast from the axis of rotation. Limbgin there is some effect... but again, it is not that much. The effect of angular momentum actually keeps the saw cutting a nice straight line. Same thing that keeps a motorcycle upright; the spin of the wheels keeps it from falling over at speed. :chainsaw:

I gott'a go cut some wood now... the GF is wanting to finish limbing and fell more trees.
 
LMAO... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

After my most recent back injury... which just happened Saturday, and completely non-saw related... I might not be drop starting many saws period.

Or runnin' the V-8 next year... :cry:

My back is a mess...

Gary
Man I'm truly sorry ta hear that Gary, back injuries are a drag for sure. What ya needs is one of them hang from da ceilin' traction thingies that'll suspend yer whole body just off the bed (customized so your faced down of course :p ), that an' stay away from them nasty ol' cougars at closin' time, a sure way ta gets injured :D

:cheers: (and stay away from the wheat gluten while yer healing up eh!)

Serge
 
That there is funny!!!

I don't care who ya are!!!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Gary
Hey, I wuz serious, and bear the scars! Makes for some interestin' tanning in the summer :D (oh, 'Honey would ya mind wearin' these gloves?' or breakin' out the nailclippers doesn't seem to go over very well *sigh*) :p

Serge
 
Now on to the gyro effect (my bad here, I though that the discussion was centrifugal force and not angular momentum). Angular momentum is the force that results in resistance to moving the saw to the left or right, or rolling the saw over to either side. The spin of the crank, flywheel and clutch/sprocket, and to some effect chain are all creating a torque along the axis of the crankshaft spin, which is angular momentum (or gyro effect). You can feel this effect with just about any chainsaw at full throttle; you can easilly rotate the chainsaw bar up and down in the 'kickback' motion, but if you pivot the bar from left to right to roll it over to the left or right there is a noticable resistance to that motion. There was some debate online a while back about the Texas Chainsaw Massacre movie people not being able to move chainsaws the way that they did on film because of the resistance of angular momentum.

Anyway, the effects are not that noticable in any chainsawing that I have done. Just do not try to move the saw to fast from the axis of rotation. Limbgin there is some effect... but again, it is not that much. The effect of angular momentum actually keeps the saw cutting a nice straight line. Same thing that keeps a motorcycle upright; the spin of the wheels keeps it from falling over at speed. :chainsaw:

I gott'a go cut some wood now... the GF is wanting to finish limbing and fell more trees.

Bah!! I agree. Chainsaw gyro effect ain't doodley. Try moving a cutoff saw around like that for a comparison.
 
Hey, I wuz serious, and bear the scars! Makes for some interestin' tanning in the summer :D (oh, 'Honey would ya mind wearin' these gloves?' or breakin' out the nailclippers doesn't seem to go over very well *sigh*) :p

Serge

I was hanging from the cieling fan with one hand, with a rubber chicken in the other hand, and a whip in my teeth... was aiming for the g/f... but missed.

Hit the bed post... :laugh: :laugh:

Gary
 
I was hanging from the cieling fan with one hand, with a rubber chicken in the other hand, and a whip in my teeth... was aiming for the g/f... but missed.

Hit the bed post... :laugh: :laugh:

Gary

:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
now THAAAATS funny.
 
It is in fact a valid point, at least limbing smaller limbs at a high rate, but not a very important one overall.

The gyro effect from the rotating chain will of course be less notisable, when the bar is closer to the weight axis.......

I just found it futile to get it into some peoples head, and gave up..... :biggrinbounce2: :laugh: :laugh:

As I said.......:cheers:
 
Isn't a gyro some kind of sandwich made in Greece?

Gary

We used to have a fast food joint called GYRO's. Good and greezy:food:

23041722.jpg
 
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Almost always..........

Always my small & middies get dropped. How is earth are you supposed to put a foot in the handle or handle between knees on a 200t?? Push it down and let 'er rip.

Big saws I will occaisionally start on the ground with foot in rear handle, but ONLY in clear ground/surroundings that is not steep. Otherwise it's the FS method with bottom of bar on stump/log, of course that's a modified drop start anyways.....

Almost never start with brake on, too much stress on things.

The key to safe starting with any method is a firm grip, short, sharp pulls and ALWAYS be aware of where the bar tip is. Whimpy grip, spaghetti arms and long, non-assertive pulls lead to bad things.

Grip it 'n rip it.:chainsawguy:
 
I used to drop start most of my saws, found it easier to drop start the bigger ones (90cc +). Never used a decomp button(for sissies I said). Started using the decomp button one day when shoulder was playing up, then kept it up, then noticed that I didn't have as many problems with the starter rope and assembly.
As for drop starting, bad habit. Racing in a post rip race earlier this year, in the qualiying heat of the 75cc class I finished first, in the final the saw stalled when I rolled the billet over, drop started it out of habit, instant DQ.
 
As for drop starting, bad habit. Racing in a post rip race earlier this year, in the qualiying heat of the 75cc class I finished first, in the final the saw stalled when I rolled the billet over, drop started it out of habit, instant DQ.

DQ'd? dayyyyuuuumm... well, here, let us honor you with the ArboristsSite award of high merit. You will be knighted by Lakeside and given an trophy with a kiss from SawWitch. :bowdown:
 

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