Nik's Poulan Thread

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Question for the Poulan experts & parts gurus here. @Acornhill

Has anyone ever run across the part number for a Poulan 4000 replacement starter pawl? I need a pair as one set is chewed up.

It’s always shown integral w/ the flywheel on Poulan’s IPLs…no individual number that I could see.
 
Hi guyus,been a while since I posted here.I got a 306A that has an oil leak,I'm assuming it's a bad gasket.I pulled the clutch off & took the 4 screws out that looked likje it held the oil tank together & also took the 2 bolts out by the crankshaft & it still doesn't come apart.What am I missing?
 
Carb gaskets and diaphragms are installed correctly. Reed petals look tight. Reed block has no cracks I can see.
After dunking in water I discovered it was leaking between carb and reed. Took it down and found the carb gasket had slipped when some idiot, me, reinstalled after rebuild. Got that fixed and now it runs well until you turn it sideways. Definitely got a leak, maybe one or all three seals.
Does anyone know how to pressure test a poulan 306a? Can’t get any pressure using my mityvac
Started tearing it down to attempt to discover why. Took the oil pump cover off; mostly for cleanup. Then used my compressor to push some air in through the modified spark plug I fabricated. Lo and behold, air was coming out of one of the screw holes for the oil pump and the end of the crankshaft. Yeah, I know, totally weird. Put bolt in the screw hole and tried the mityvac again. Really blocked most of the air but still can’t get pressureStill no dice.
I got two options -
one-replace all three seals and hope that fixes it;
two-toss it. Very tempting.
Out of the dozens of saws I’ve rebuilt I’ve never run across anything like this.
Would dearly love to hear from someone that is totally knowledgeable about this saw. It’s got me flummoxed for now.
Thanks,
Jerry
 
I’d just put in new crank seals, usually both on the clutch side are leaking. Baffles me that you installed all new ones in 2012 & it’s leaking again…if it’s the same saw that you posted about a few days ago.

I also find the big o-ring seal located under the bearing carrier plate is the other major leak.

They P&V test just the same as any other saws, got to tear it down & make blind plates for sealing the intake & exhaust.

Those oil pump cover holes have to be rubber plugged when testing, & have to have Motoseal on the threads when you assemble it. They go through the crankcase.
 

Attachments

  • Poulan 200 300 Series Wright 100 Service Manual.pdf
    3.1 MB
THANKS much Hotshot
I had already made blind plates for intake and exhaust. Just wasn't expecting the oiler mounting holes to extend into the crankcase. and definitely not expecting the end of crank to blow when I tested.
It is the same saw. Looking back at my records from 2012 I see that I didn't replace any seals
I've got seals on order; should be here Saturday. Just ordered an o-ring. Saw is already torn down so that's not an issue.
Good to know about the rubber plugs and moto seal. Thanks much for the SM: I've been stumbling around in the dark.
Did you make your plugs or is there somewhere I could access them?
Really appreciate your help. I've rebuilt a number of saws but this one gave me some surprises.
 
I just took a bolt to Ace hardware & they had the right size black rubber stoppers.

The only thing that annoys me on those Poulan 245/306 saws is making sure I get all 25 of the con rod roller bearings put back in.
 
Many years ago I had a 150 auto, seems like everyone else had one. Anyway i took it apart and lost one of the rod needle bearings and I knew it had to be somewhere in the garage. I locked it up and every night after work I would get down and look for it, took 4 nights and I found it on the floor. If i could have ordered a set i would have. It wasn't very easy back then. Now I use a towel to work on.
 
Many years ago I had a 150 auto, seems like everyone else had one. Anyway i took it apart and lost one of the rod needle bearings and I knew it had to be somewhere in the garage. I locked it up and every night after work I would get down and look for it, took 4 nights and I found it on the floor. If i could have ordered a set i would have. It wasn't very easy back then. Now I use a towel to work on.
I love cookie sheets. Just a little bit of a lip to catch runaways, but not so high that it gets in the way.
 
Does anyone have a functional cylinder for a 306a they’d be willing to donate, swap, or sell. Only interested in one that has the chrome lining intact and complete. Thanks, jerry
https://www.arboristsite.com/forums/chainsaw-parts-tools.151/
May have better luck posting a “Want to Buy” cylinder request in the Tradin’ Post section, also a likely place for the Poulan haters to dump a 306 parts saw.

Good 306 jugs are getting hard to find, as the chrome plating under exhaust port chips off when overheated.

The model 245 top end off a parts saw is a direct swap too, but you’ll need the piston & con rod. Same parts used on the orange Dayton 2Z462 & 463 saws, if you find one.

The Poulan 361 cylinder won’t work.
 
Fellas on the 295's are there multiple series? I may have asked before and if so humor the senile ol geezer.
I shelved one a while back because the clutch bearing or something in that area didn't sound so good. Willing to put a little in it as it seems to be a decent saw otherwise, but I don't want to buy incorrect parts. As always thanks in advance for time you will no doubt save me!!

Jcm , I have a 306a I wanted to fix up at some point but not deeply attached. If I recall ,I think it had a reed issue. If you get desperate, give me a shout. Always looking for Mac 10 series, just saying! Lol
 
Fellas on the 295's are there multiple series? I may have asked before and if so humor the senile ol geezer.
I shelved one a while back because the clutch bearing or something in that area didn't sound so good. Willing to put a little in it as it seems to be a decent saw otherwise, but I don't want to buy incorrect parts. As always thanks in advance for time you will no doubt save me!!

Jcm , I have a 306a I wanted to fix up at some point but not deeply attached. If I recall ,I think it had a reed issue. If you get desperate, give me a shout. Always looking for Mac 10 series, just saying! Lol

Hello Bob , you could remove the clutch , drum and bearing for a run and inspection .
Scott
 

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