Stihl 026 question.

[SteveSr]

I took this picture of the choke lever in full choke down postion but the lever arm is no where close to touching the choke arm in the air filter.

Are you squeezing the trigger BEFORE pushing the control lever all the way down?

 

[bmwz3coupe]

Are you squeezing the trigger BEFORE pushing the control lever all the way down?

Yes, the choke lever will make contact with the air cleaner arm but does not move it.

 

[SteveSr]

Yes, the choke lever will make contact with the air cleaner arm but does not move it.

Something is wrong with either the choke or the lever shaft. Is the right end of the lever shaft in the mating hole in the tank housing?

 

[bmwz3coupe]

Something is wrong with either the choke or the lever shaft. Is the right end of the lever shaft in the mating hole in the tank housing?

Both ends of choke rod are in there slot and the other in the hole.

 

[The Stig]

Turn the low mix screw out a 1/4 turn

 

[SteveSr]

Both ends of choke rod are in there slot and the other in the hole.

Here is what it looks like on my 026 with the lever in the full choke position. Note that this is with the newer tank housing but the operation is the same. Is your AF aftermarket or genuine Stihl?

 

[wildwes]

Looking at yours again, the red "nub" on the switch is not traveling up high enough to engage the choke flap. Something is either wrong with your switch or something is blocking it from rotating far enough from the looks of it.

Notice the difference between yours:


And the one posted by SteveSr:

 

[stihltech]

If you remove 1 of the air filter screws, you should be able to see if the choke flap is closing inside the air filter.

 

[woojr]

I bought a used 026 off eBay about 15 years ago. It had all new fuel parts replaced and took a dozen pulls to get it primed. Then ran great. Now that my shoulders and back are shot I've surrendered to removing the air filter and pouring a little fuel down the carb. It fires right up and I put the air filter back. It's a really nice cutting saw for its weight and the inconvenience of cold starting isn't so bad.

 

[wildwes]

I bought a used 026 off eBay about 15 years ago. It had all new fuel parts replaced and took a dozen pulls to get it primed. Then ran great. Now that my shoulders and back are shot I've surrendered to removing the air filter and pouring a little fuel down the carb. It fires right up and I put the air filter back. It's a really nice cutting saw for its weight and the inconvenience of cold starting isn't so bad.

You can usually just pour a little fuel directly on the flocked part of the air filter without actually removing it to get one to start easily

 

[pioneerguy600]

I took this picture of the choke lever in full choke down postion but the lever arm is no where close to touching the choke arm in the air filter.

There is occasions when the stainless steel spring for the run/stop for the ignition is able to stop the Master switch from travelling all the way down to enable it to contact the lever on the airfilter. The steel spring often gets bent out of shape if the Master Switch is operated when the airfilter is not mounted in position. The airfilter actually contacts that spring when it is installed.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Yeah, looks like the throttle lever position is off a couple of hours on a clock dial.

 

[woojr]

You can usually just pour a little fuel directly on the flocked part of the air filter without actually removing it to get one to start easily

It takes more pulls that way and the saw smells strong of gas.

 

[Oletrapper]

There is occasions when the stainless steel spring for the run/stop for the ignition is able to stop the Master switch from travelling all the way down to enable it to contact the lever on the airfilter. The steel spring often gets bent out of shape if the Master Switch is operated when the airfilter is not mounted in position. The airfilter actually contacts that spring when it is installed.

And it is a pita to get it back in the correct shape. :-( OT

 

[Oletrapper]

Just an observation, It appears that Stihl has made a change in the filter system. On my 026 the filter screws are flush with the filter surface when mounted and the actuator rod is black. The same as SteveSr's. I'm running a 026 Pro with the compression release.
On BMW's the actuator rod is orange and the filter mount screws are not flush. I'm guessing that is to allow the filter cover to lock over the screws.
Being that there are two different filters for the 026, could be possible he has bought the wrong one? Just a thought. His choke is definitely not going to work as it is now. OT

 

[pioneerguy600]

Just an observation, It appears that Stihl has made a change in the filter system. On my 026 the filter screws are flush with the filter surface when mounted and the actuator rod is black. The same as SteveSr's. I'm running a 026 Pro with the compression release.
On BMW's the actuator rod is orange and the filter mount screws are not flush. I'm guessing that is to allow the filter cover to lock over the screws.
Being that there are two different filters for the 026, could be possible he has bought the wrong one? Just a thought. His choke is definitely not going to work as it is now. OT

The two different filters will work the same in the choke activation areas, what is happening on the OP`s saw is that the Master control switch is not rotating down to full choke position, it is likely catching on the stainless steel spring on the far left of the control shaft. I see this problem very often where someone has had the airfilter off and tried to actuate the switch and the spring steel will interfere with the master control, the steel spring gets bent out out of shape and from then on the switch will catch and not operate correctly. For most it is better to replace the steel spring as it is very difficult to reshape the spring correctly. What we need is to have the OP post clear pics of his steel spring end of the Master control, it will be evident then what is stopping the control switch from moving down completely to full choke position.

 

[660catman]

Years ago I had start/run issues on my 026 until I cleaned the screen in the exhaust. And mine has the screws that stick out to hold the air filter cover in place.

 

[SteveSr]

The two different filters will work the same in the choke activation areas, what is happening on the OP`s saw is that the Master control switch is not rotating down to full choke position, it is likely catching on the stainless steel spring on the far left of the control shaft. I see this problem very often where someone has had the airfilter off and tried to actuate the switch and the spring steel will interfere with the master control, the steel spring gets bent out out of shape and from then on the switch will catch and not operate correctly. For most it is better to replace the steel spring as it is very difficult to reshape the spring correctly. What we need is to have the OP post clear pics of his steel spring end of the Master control, it will be evident then what is stopping the control switch from moving down completely to full choke position.

Interesting possibility. However, if you look at the block that holds the kill wire on the control shaft you will note that it is vertical in the full choke position, the same as the one that I posted. So it would appear that the OP's control lever is going all the way down but that doesn't explain the position of the choke actuating tab.

I am beginning to think that the the control shaft is possibly broken or more likely taken a "set" from the saw being stored with the choke engaged in a warm/hot location. Plastic will flow with heat and time.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Interesting possibility. However, if you look at the block that holds the kill wire on the control shaft you will note that it is vertical in the full choke position, the same as the one that I posted. So it would appear that the OP's control lever is going all the way down but that doesn't explain the position of the choke actuating tab.

I am beginning to think that the the control shaft is possibly broken or more likely taken a "set" from the saw being stored with the choke engaged in a warm/hot location. Plastic will flow with heat and time.

What are you basing that on Steve? The OP has only posted one pic that I can see of his control lever, post#11 and it does not show the lever going down full travel in that pic , it only shows the contact end between the control shaft and air filter. The other pics belong to, irhunter and you, not the OP

 

[Oletrapper]

Interesting possibility. However, if you look at the block that holds the kill wire on the control shaft you will note that it is vertical in the full choke position, the same as the one that I posted. So it would appear that the OP's control lever is going all the way down but that doesn't explain the position of the choke actuating tab.

I am beginning to think that the the control shaft is possibly broken or more likely taken a "set" from the saw being stored with the choke engaged in a warm/hot location. Plastic will flow with heat and time.

I think that is irhunters pic that you looked at. I don't think the OP posted a pick of the kill wire side of his. Also, it seems that he has disappeared. Sure hope he lets everyone know if he got it fixed. lmao OT