Replace or rebuild 026 carb?

[teacherman]

I had quite a spell of CAD the past month or so, and I ended up with some very nice saws. Along with the runners were a couple of 026s I can't start. Both will run for a second with a cc of mix squirted into the carb, but they don't stay running. Both were supposedly runners, but, oh well. I think it's likely carb issues. My question is whether to buy a couple of new Walbro aftermarket carbs, spring for OEM, or get an ultrasonic cleaner and disassemble, clean, and rebuild the existing carbs. I always thought the OEM carbs on those were pretty good. I don't plan to try the ten dollar China carbs, it's hard to believe they would even work, let alone be reliable. These are not old worn-out saws, they look pretty good and have plenty of compression. Both are red lever earlier models.

What do y'all think? I no longer fancy myself a saw rebuilder, although I do know how to do seals and switch out most parts, and I've successfully rebuilt carbs if I boil them in the ultrasonic. I hope they both oil OK, because that's one thing I've never dealt with successfully.

Thanks.

Some how the seven saw plan became a seventeen saw plan...

 

[ZeroJunk]

You can rebuild them to new until they start leaking around the shafts. Most never make it there.

Check your impulse line closely with a good flash light. Intake manifold as well.

 

[slowcar281]

Pull the carb apart and see if there is any damage or corrosion from being stored with fuel.

Does the existing carb have an H screw ? Some of them didn’t have a high side adjustment IIRC

and definitely check all rubber. Fuel and impulse lines. Intake boot and crank seals

 

[teacherman]

I had quite a spell of CAD the past month or so, and I ended up with some very nice saws. Along with the runners were a couple of 026s I can't start. Both will run for a second with a cc of mix squirted into the carb, but they don't stay running. Both were supposedly runners, but, oh well. I think it's likely carb issues. My question is whether to buy a couple of new Walbro aftermarket carbs, spring for OEM, or get an ultrasonic cleaner and disassemble, clean, and rebuild the existing carbs. I always thought the OEM carbs on those were pretty good. I don't plan to try the ten dollar China carbs, it's hard to believe they would even work, let alone be reliable. These are not old worn-out saws, they look pretty good and have plenty of compression. Both are red lever earlier models.

What do y'all think? I no longer fancy myself a saw rebuilder, although I do know how to do seals and switch out most parts, and I've successfully rebuilt carbs if I boil them in the ultrasonic. I hope they both oil OK, because that's one thing I've never dealt with successfully.

Thanks.

Some how the seven saw plan became a seventeen saw plan...

Has anyone used those Duke's WT-194 clones? Just curious. $25 is a pretty low price, but...

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Red master control is early 90’s so those saws should have adjustable high and low speed WT-194 carbs. I’d rebuild them with genuine Walbro kits. Don’t bother with aftermarket carbs.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I'm old and my memory sucks. But, I think some of those were compensating and some not.
A few had a single screw adjustment, and the other part of the carb housing blocked off.

Which is just a fitment issue to be aware of.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Red master control is early 90’s so those saws should have adjustable high and low speed WT-194 carbs. I’d rebuild them with genuine Walbro kits. Don’t bother with aftermarket carbs.

I guess that answers that.

 

[slowcar281]

Has anyone used those Duke's WT-194 clones? Just curious. $25 is a pretty low price, but...

Speaking for myself here…. I have had nothing but bad luck with aftermarket carbs. I rebuilt a MS310 last year and pulled my hair out with running issues. As a last resort I ended up buying a Stihl carb complete with limiter caps and all and it completely cured my issues.

if rebuilding the current carb isn’t an option, I vote OEM for a replacement.

 

[teacherman]

Speaking for myself here…. I have had nothing but bad luck with aftermarket carbs. I rebuilt a MS310 last year and pulled my hair out with running issues. As a last resort I ended up buying a Stihl carb complete with limiter caps and all and it completely cured my issues.

if rebuilding the current carb isn’t an option, I vote OEM for a replacement.

One of them has had an aftermarket carb put on it. I'll check it out, but I reckon it'll be a hundred dollar fix. New OEM ones are pricey.

 

[slowcar281]

One of them has had an aftermarket carb put on it. I'll check it out, but I reckon it'll be a hundred dollar fix. New OEM ones are pricey.

Definitely call around. I called several Stihl dealers and prices for the exact same carb were all over the place. Some places wanted just over a hundred, I ended up buying it from an Ace hardware for 65 dollars, and they had it in stock surprisingly.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

You can find them on eBay. WT-194-1.

 

[stihltech]

If you buy an aftermarket carburetor, buy at least two. One of them MIGHT work. (From shop experience).

 

[ZeroJunk]

Buy a kit, or two .Take the adjustment screws out and spray some carb cleaner in the hole and see if it comes out in the barrel. Particularly the little hole or holes on the engine side of the butterfly when sprayed in the idle hole.

If that is good, put a kit in it. Stuff in the same way it came out.

 

[Pioneer]

If there's no corrosion inside the carb or wear on the butterfly shaft, rebuild the old carbs. If they have issues and you need to replace them, try farmertec for cheap aftermarket. So far every carb I have bought from them worked. The last one was a wt215 copy.