Muffler mod or new Non-EPA muffler for Husky 359?

I have a new Husky 359 (e-tech) and have been reading about the muffler mod. Since my saw is under warranty I'm reluctant to take a drill bit to the muffler. How much more performance can I expect out of the Non-EPA muffler over stock? Husky tells me that the stock muffler does not have a catalytic converter. If I have to take the saw back to the stealership, I can always swap mufflers before going in (the Non-EPA may be visibly identical anyway). Does the carb after be readjusted after installing the Non-EPA muffler? I really have no complaints about this saw, at least when I have a fresh chain on---I can barely hang on! I'm just always looking for ways to improve things.

EPA muffler has some bad cancer causing stuff in it, for your own health don't mess with it, User mannual says as much. for the $45 just get a non epa muffler and go from there, easier and safer.

If you open up the muffler the carb will need to be adjusted and this will require clipping the adjustment tabs. I cant remember if the plastic tabs can be pulled off the jet and repositioned, I just clip them off.

It's easier to just grind/cut the tabs....

Use a pair of small diagonal cutters to remove the adjustment sleeve that goes around the caps on the adj. screws. I've found it easier to use a dremel or small rotary tool to grind the tabs off the caps on the adj screws.

I would reccommend you buy the non-cat #5039175-04 from baileys for $40. You can always wait until the warranty expires and then switch to non-cat. But whatever you do, make sure you soak the two large bolts(down inside the tubes in the front of the muffler) and the bolts in the front support bracket with some penetrating oil!! Those cat mufflers seem to weld themselves to the saw!

If the saw says e-tech it has cat muffler

Unless the dealers switched mufflers(which I doubt) your saw has a muffler with a catalytic converter. Also, the muffler will have "CAT" stamped on it after the part number on the top front of muffler.

Yup, it says "CAT." I'm off to Bailey's. Thanks!

Crap. It's on backorder. Do forum members get a discount at Bailey's? Anyone else got it?:greenchainsaw:

I just put one on last week and snipped the limiter tabs on the mixture screws. Mixture can be adjusted properly revving up no load, but once it cuts, slows to a stop regardless of setting. Saw is at the dealer now, will have diagnostics back in a week. If I have to yank the new one off, I'll mail it to you.

City, I think I read your post after doing a search. Is there anyone else out there who "had a bad trip?" Maybe I should hang tight. I bought five chains (including the OEM) for the beast. I have an 18 inch bar on it and thought about maybe buying a 16 inch bar and cutting three of the chains down to 16 inches. 16" should handle most of my bucking but every now and then, 2 more inches might be nice for taking down a big maple. I think my manual said I should change the spark plug after the first month or so. What's up with that? I'm running it a little rich, probably 40:1 but I doubt that would foul the plug anyway.

I didnt have any problems at all when I changed my muffler just had to readjust the carb settings the L and H had to be richened. especially the H screw the saw was turning over 14,000 rpm. It did make a nice difference but it wasnt enough for me so I researched and did a port job on mine. It still cant touch my 7900 but it cuts pretty good now. It keeps up with some of the smaller 70cc saws I have ran.

Husky Joe said:

Crap. It's on backorder. Do forum members get a discount at Bailey's? Anyone else got it?:greenchainsaw:

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try www.amickssuperstore.com

Sweet!
Five bucks cheaper than Bailey's too!
So once I install this thing, I probably want to get it to the local engine shop and maybe put it on the tach at 13,500RPM's, right?

Or, put the 5 bucks and what ever the saw show would charge to set the saw up towards a tachometer, then no more trips to the saw shop to get the RPM set. 13,500 should be fine after opening the muffler up, but it may still be a bit rich, could go as high as 14,000 WOTNL to give proper mixture though that will depend one saw to the next and on bar size.

TW is right, buy a tach.....

A tach will alow you to put your mind at rest and sort of "calibrate "your H screw. I don't know how new your saw is but it will gain RPMs and lean out a tad as it breaks in.
If you can get by with a 16" bar, than by all means go for it. I've used a 16" bar on that saw and it cuts much faster than the 18" 68 driver bar. TACH THE SAW WITH THE 16" BAR!!! If you tach it with the 18" bar it will be leaner when you downsize to a 16". FWIW, I would not go 13,500 with a stock muffler, even non cat version. I've heard from several competent sources to keep em around 13,000.

Agree, on my 359 Stock I would not have wanted to run it over 13,500. However once the muffler was open up, running it at 13,500 would be rich. Factory reccomended RPM only makes sense as long as the saw is still factory spec stock. Even once the muffler is opened up better to tune the saw by ear and plug reading and not get too hung up on factory numbers. Then once you have that rpm number nailed down it can be set/reset by tach to where it runs best.

timberwolf said:

Or, put the 5 bucks and what ever the saw show would charge to set the saw up towards a tachometer, then no more trips to the saw shop to get the RPM set. 13,500 should be fine after opening the muffler up, but it may still be a bit rich, could go as high as 14,000 WOTNL to give proper mixture though that will depend one saw to the next and on bar size.

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Yep, Amicks has a good tach too. Buy both and save on the shipping. Buy some oil too. While you're at it you might as well buy some extra chains, a bar, some chaps, wedges and some files. Did I miss anything? LOL, Maybe I can get some free stuff from Amicks for being a sales rep.

Question for timberwolf; When you set your high speed with a tach do you go by the highest rpm or what you're actually seeing when the saw is running?

Yes, the highest speed, but I don't rev them for more than a couple seconds, I can set a saw by ear in my sleep, dream enough about saws LOL, but I still like to put a tach on them to give me a real number sense.

timberwolf said:

Yes, the highest speed, but I don't rev them for more than a couple seconds, I can set a saw by ear in my sleep, dream enough about saws LOL, but I still like to put a tach on them to give me a real number sense.

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Thanks

Got my muffler today. Wife wondered why my new saw needed a new muffler. I told her this one has fewer carcinogens so all is well here in The Great Unknown.
I got the muffler bracket screws out but now how do I get the rest of it off? Are there screws of some sort up in those two front holes? See where I'm pointing in this photo.



Also, is this the thingy I want to cut off to get more adjustment out of the carb adjustment screws? See photo below. What can I expect in terms of performance/adjustability if I leave the screws stock? I'm assuming that the carb cannot be properly adjusted with the limited adjustment setup from the factory.

You've got to take the bar off to remove the side screws that hold the dogs/front bracket in place to remove muffler.

And the screw caps are under the piece with the arrow in the picture. High speed cap is black plastic, low speed is white. I took an exacto knife to a torch to get it hot enough to melt off the limiters. As you spin the screws, you can see the tabs that go about halfway around the caps.

The little tabs can be clipped off with nail clippers, super easy.