011 av Mix in Muffler?

[lavs4x4]

Hey guys another newbie here. Love the site! Been doing a bunch of searching and have obtained some great info.

My father gave me his old orange case 011av that he has used very little over the years. When I got the saw it started really hard and wouldn't stay running at all. So I rebuilt the carb put new fuel lines and filter in. I adjusted the H and L screws to 1 turn out. I've got the saw to fire up pretty easily now but it idles really rough and bogs when I gas it and stalls easliy. It has fresh mix and a new plug. After I tried running it for a little while, starting and trying to get it to stay running I noticed that mix was dripping onto the floor. It seems to be comng from the muffler.

This is where I left off last night. What do you guys think? I used the parts diagram when I rebuilt the carb so I'm pretty sure all the gaskets and diaphrams are in the correct order. In my searching it looked like the metering lever could be set to high. Would this make sense?


Any input would be great I don't want to bring this thing into the shop. I already lost the battle on my John deere 826 snowblower and it still runs shi#%y.



Thanks,\
Frank

 

[sefh3]

The gas dripping out of the muffler is due to flooding. Did you pull it a bunch of times and it didn't run??? You need to adjust the carb to get it to idle (L) screw then adjust the high revs (H) screw unless it's a fix carb. 1 turn out is just a starting point. They should run at that setting but need to be fine tuned after that. The bog at WOT could be to sucking to much air and not enough fuel. Adjust the carb and see what happens.

PS Welcome to the site!!!!!!!!!!

 

[pioneerguy600]

The metering lever set too high is one of the most common reasons for a carb to flood, others are the diaphgram installed incorrectly or installed in the wrong order.
Pioneerguy600

 

[lavs4x4]

Thanks for the quick repsonse guys. When it does idle ( doesn't idle very long before stalling) it seems to run high and irratically chain somtimes engages. Which way do I adjust the L screw to get it to idle better? I think I have more of an issue than just a carb adjustment though. How do I know if the metering lever is the issue? ALso how do I got about adjusting it properly. I read that it is suppose to be level with the carb body. Is this when it is closed or open?

 

[Dale]

There's guys on here that will lead you directly to the issue given time and proper diagnosis. One of em ain't me though That said, I thought I read a thread on here that the smaller saws (011, 015) require less standard opening of the H/L than some of the larger models that use a 1 1/4" standard starting turnout. Someone will chime in.

 

[sefh3]

If the metering valve is too high it will give you too much fuel and not enough if it's too low. If you idle fast, that is a sign of an air leak. Make sure you assembled your carb correctly. Pressure test the saw to rule out seals and gasket leaking.

 

[lavs4x4]

Okay gentlemen,

Tonight depending on how much snow we get I'm going to head out to the shop and do some tinkering. I think I am going to try and adjust the carb first and see what that does. If that doesn't do the trick I think I'm going to pull the carb and take a look at the metering side check and re check all my gaskets and make sure everything is in the correct order.

It sounds as though we all agree that the metering lever height may not be correct causing my issues. I understand there is a special tool to measure this height but I want to get this thing running and not have to buy yet another tool I use once. Can I swap the original metering lever back in exchange for lever that came in the rebuild kit? This height should be better I would think.

I'll let you know how it goes, wish me luck...

Frank

 

[lavs4x4]

Is there suppose to be a spring under the tail end of the metering lever? I pulled the carb tonight to swap in the old metering lever and got looking at the parts schematic and noticed a spring that looks like it sits under the tail end of the lever. I remeber having one in the walbro kit but I can't seem to find the fing thing anywhere? Is this my problem and can I buy just the measile little spring?

A little frustrated but I think we found the culprit!

 

[redunshee]

Is there suppose to be a spring under the tail end of the metering lever? I pulled the carb tonight to swap in the old metering lever and got looking at the parts schematic and noticed a spring that looks like it sits under the tail end of the lever. I remeber having one in the walbro kit but I can't seem to find the fing thing anywhere? Is this my problem and can I buy just the measile little spring?

A little frustrated but I think we found the culprit!

Find that spring. It doesn't come with the kit so if you don't have one or one isn't already in the carb you have a problem. You may want to contact Walbro to see if they will send you a couple.

 

[lavs4x4]

Well looked all over the shop and can't find the damn spring. Ended up cleaning the whole shop and organizing everthing. Also got an 8ft high output floresent light over my bench. Ordered up the spring and a new base gasket from the local Stihl dealer be here in a couple days. Hopefully this solves the problem and gets the old 011 back up and running.

Thanks for all the help.:greenchainsaw:

 

[pioneerguy600]

Let us know by posting if this solves the mystery.
Pioneerguy600

 

[lavs4x4]

Well finally got to play with the 011 last night. Ordered a new metering spring to replace the missing one, a new carb base gasket, and made my own metering lever measuring tool. Got the carb back together expecting for the thing to fire right up with the spring now installed and the metering lever set at the correct height. NO DICE! didn't start. If I pour mix into the carb it will fire up and run until that mix is gone. I can see that fuel is getting to the carb through the new tygon fuel line. However it doesn't seem to be pumping the fuel. HMMM! So I'm kind of stumped.

I pulled the carb and checked the pump side and when I did the rebuild there was not a direct match for the pump side diaphram in the rebuild kit. I used one that looked the closest to the stock diaphram. Thinking this was the problem I tried another diaphram that came in the kit. Same issue won't start unless I pour fuel into the carb.

What gives? Saw would run prior to carb rebuild so I don't think there are any other issues. It just ran rough and would idle out and die.

I'm getting tired of messing with this little saw.. Help a brotha out.

Thanks frank,

 

[redunshee]

Well finally got to play with the 011 last night. Ordered a new metering spring to replace the missing one, a new carb base gasket, and made my own metering lever measuring tool. Got the carb back together expecting for the thing to fire right up with the spring now installed and the metering lever set at the correct height. NO DICE! didn't start. If I pour mix into the carb it will fire up and run until that mix is gone. I can see that fuel is getting to the carb through the new tygon fuel line. However it doesn't seem to be pumping the fuel. HMMM! So I'm kind of stumped.

I pulled the carb and checked the pump side and when I did the rebuild there was not a direct match for the pump side diaphram in the rebuild kit. I used one that looked the closest to the stock diaphram. Thinking this was the problem I tried another diaphram that came in the kit. Same issue won't start unless I pour fuel into the carb.

What gives? Saw would run prior to carb rebuild so I don't think there are any other issues. It just ran rough and would idle out and die.

I'm getting tired of messing with this little saw.. Help a brotha out.

Thanks frank,

If you have a Walbro WA carb, the metering lever should be flush with the circuit plate, not carb body. Use a small straight edge to set it. If its a WT the lever is set a little higher(about 1/16 in. above curcuit plate). Walbro tool makes setting height a lot easier. Re-check pump side assembly and be sure all passages are clean and free of dirt. Many kits come with a couple diaphragms to fit differant models. However one of them should be an exact match to the old one. If the old one isn't that bad try it and see if it will start. Remember on the pump side its diaphragm, gasket and cover. Exactly opposite for metering side.

 

[lotawood]

I have been working on a 011 the last week, mainly the carb settings. I don't think I have it dialed in either. I had gas out the muffler after the carb rebuild. After taking the carb apart several times, same thing-gas out the muffler. Long story short, I let color and material type influence witch gasket on the pump side I chose out of the rebuild kit. I have a wt-29. After I stopped to think about it, I had the wrong pump diaphram.
After putting in the right diaphram, I don't get gas out the muffler. I have a lower float lever than suggested above. It seemed to be running rich. As said, it is not quite right but is cutting OK.
I also have to get over, is that this saw has at least half the horse power the I am use to.

 

[lavs4x4]

Thanks for the info guys. I think I will order up a new pump diaphram and hope thats it. Lotawood sounds like we have the same issue. What diaprham did you end up using a clear one or a black one. Either way I did not have an exact match to the stock diaphram in the kit. First diaphram I used wasn't allowing any fuel in and the second I tried was flooding the cylinder. Guess I will order the new gasket on Monday..



Thanks again,

 

[redunshee]

Thanks for the info guys. I think I will order up a new pump diaphram and hope thats it. Lotawood sounds like we have the same issue. What diaprham did you end up using a clear one or a black one. Either way I did not have an exact match to the stock diaphram in the kit. First diaphram I used wasn't allowing any fuel in and the second I tried was flooding the cylinder. Guess I will order the new gasket on Monday..



Thanks again,

You know, I don't know why, but I have never had any luck with the clear light brown diaphragms. Doesn't make sense and most kits include them. Same design as the black ones but I can't seem to make them work. Weird.
Bob

 

[lotawood]

The rebuild kit I got is K10-WAT, and then it has 02 2009 under that (maybe manufacture date?). I used the see-through blue diaphram.
When I was having gas out the muffler, it wouldn't even start. Now I am playing with the float lever height because it seems to run rich even for the H & L adjustments. I'm trying to get it to just 4-stroke until it starts cutting under load. It also has coarser droplets if I look down the carburator while it is running with out the air filter (not cutting wood obviously) when compared to other saws.
If that saw means a lot to you, because it was your fathers, you might want to take the above advice to pressure/vac test to rule out seal leaks. Equipment sitting still for years might have problems with seals.

 

[lavs4x4]

Not sure on the rebuild kit I got but I will have to look tonight. Hoping the diaphram is the issue and not a leak somewhere. Lotawood I found a scale picture of the metering tool in a search on this site printed it, cut it out, traced it onto some thick sheet plastic, cut it out, aand I had a home brewered metering tool. Someone also has the measurment of how much lower the metering lever should be in the carb I believe it was .067 or something close to that. I found a lot of info when I searched "Metering". Hopefully we both can get these saws running right.

Thanks again

 

[lotawood]

Thanks for the suggestion on the metering posts. I think I'll do that when I get back to that saw. The 011 I have is running good enough to get used but it is not set at ideal. There are worse things than running too rich. Also this saw is a low horsepower slower rpm saw and the only saw I have not running full chisel chain. The saw was fixed up for my young son to start out with sawing, my wife with a bad back and a 70 year old friend to use to participate in gathering firewood with me.
Good luck with yours.

 

[lavs4x4]

PLayed with the saw again today 15 degrees out and windy. Anyways swapped to a different pump side diaphram got the saw to start and run without out pouring mix down the carb. Tried to adjust the carb with it running but didn't seem to make a difference. Would idle for a minute or two and if I hit the throttle it would stall. Or it would start idling rough and cut out. Not sure what to do the diaphram was still not an exact match to the original. The carb is a WA 99. Kind of stuck. :censored: