028 WB Diagnosis

[Zodiac45]

Nothing wrong with the compression Roco, 155 is a good number for that saw and it's age. That done, I'd throw a kit in the carb ($10) and you get new diaphrams and internals. If that's doesn't fix your problem, then you've got a leak problem and seals are in order.

I have a Partner 5000plus that ran great but was a slow starter and after working a while didn't want to idle. I bought seals and a carb kit. The carb kit did the trick so I still have the seals in my parts box for down the road.

 

[Rocosil]

mechaniacal & Zodiac45,

Thanks for the input. I'm waiting for a flywheel puller and a Mityvac. I've wanted to get a Mityvac for a long time for other projects, and this was as good an excuse as any to get one. So, I'll first pull the flywheel to take a look at the points, test the lower compression and vacuum. I had the carb apart, and it looks fine, but I'll put in a kit anyway. Once I have the results of the points inspection and C/VT, I'll order the bits and pieces I need accordingly. When I have it back together again so I can pull the cord, I'll see how the spark acts, and take it from there.
Mech, the coil/ solid state ignition sounds like a good move. How does it install - in the location where the points go? Maybe I should go for that before I put the flywheel back on. What you describe reminds me of the problem I have with a little Mac 3200. Its starts and runs fine from cold, but once I've emptied that first tank, there is no way I can get it going again till the next day. After one season of that sort of torture and fiddling with it for hours, I said, "crappy, cheap, Wallmart saw" and replaced it with an Echo 305 that does a great job on the small stuff, as long as I keep that spark screen in the muffler clean.

Bob

 

[blackoak]

Sorry, get kind of testy............... Several years back, Stihltech and Andy
came along, and when they did, they usually beat me to the correct diagnosis

So I never jumped in, because I didn't want to crimp their shorts, nor be
redundant. So I became the "arboristsite" ..........................

OK


"Silly boy"............................................

So I have no respect..................................................





But a dam good lookin, "SILLY BOY"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

But you new posters have to realize that I do not invent this poop, I actually
work on the junk you like talking about, for a living, but you have no way
of realizing this. The sad part is, if another member would actually log
on and agree with me, you might actually listen to me, but I guess not.

But I digress.....................................................................................

Listen to Fish most of the time. When he starts slurring his words really listen to him, thats when he really shines. In my book Fish is the MAN!! and will steer you straight, and for a mere 20 bucks he will love you a long time.

 

[mechaniacal]

If you are going to buy tools. Get a spark tester (see attached). I have 3 from when I wanted to compare each coil on my old Evinrude when running. This has been a great tool. If I only pulled and watched a grounded spark plug, I would have probably seen a spark and moved along. This showed I had an intermitent spark.

I did not pull the flywheel. The new coil bolts to where the old coil mounts. I cut the 2 wires from the old coil that ran behind the flywheel. I would like to pull the flywheel and remove the points eventually. Shed a little weight... you know.

After spending some more time running the saw, I wish I had done this sooner. It is running like a champ. You may have a fuel problem, I was convinced I did, just don't ignore spark.

mech

 

[Rocosil]

Fish,
After blackoak's observations, I feel I should respond in more detail to your question as to whether I had checked spark, points, carburetter, and fuel pickup. I did none of that before I posted my initial questions about my repairman's verdict on the saw, which led me to focus on the low base pressure issue he mentioned. I had, in fact checked for spark and had the carb apart in the Fall when I first began to notice the reluctant starting problem. Both looked normal to my, admittedly, untrained eye at that time, so I didn't think the problem lay there, although, that may still well be the case. I didn't check out the fuel pickup because I could see that plenty of fuel appeared to be getting to the cylinder, but I have since, and it is clean and unobstructed. I didn't look at the points because I had no way of taking the flywheel off, but I will next week. So, bear with me as I explore this, to me, new territory and rest assured that I'll be paying close attention to your advice.



Bob

 

[Tzed250]

I agree with Fish...

 

[andrethegiant70]

Someone drive to Fish's house and give him a hug....

Sorry, get kind of testy............... Several years back, Stihltech and Andy
came along, and when they did, they usually beat me to the correct diagnosis

So I never jumped in, because I didn't want to crimp their shorts, nor be
redundant. So I became the "arboristsite" ....................

Oh, C'mon Fish, you da man! Them guys get on here with that insane-o, whiz-bang, interstellar chainsaw language they've got....heck, who knows WHAT them boys 'r sayin'! I know I can't follow 'em! Posers!!

You just keep on pluggin' away with that everyman language the rest of us can understand. Buck up, cowboy!

 

[Rocosil]

I did not pull the flywheel. The new coil bolts to where the old coil mounts. I cut the 2 wires from the old coil that ran behind the flywheel. I would like to pull the flywheel and remove the points eventually. Shed a little weight... you know. mech

Aha, now I understand: what you guys call "coil" and the parts list refers to as "ignition module" (Part# 0000 400 1300) is what I was thinking of as "magneto". It looks to me as if that's what I have on my saw because the black thing that sits in the middle of it is much fatter than on the one that the parts list shows as Part#1118 400 1305 and refers to as "ignition coil'. On mine there are two wires coming out of it: one going to the plug and the other to kill contact on the switch. There is no wire coming from it that leads to behind the flywheel. If I'm right about this, that would mean that I wouldn't have any reason to pull the flywheel, unless the crankshaft seal on that side were bad. Right?

I'll take your advice on the spark tester.

Thanks,

Bob.

 

[Lakeside53]

right.

 

[Tzed250]

I agree with Lakeside...:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[andrethegiant70]

Doh! Hi, Andy! :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[mechaniacal]

Maybe you already have a solid state ignition.

In the attached pic "Old Coil", The kill switch wire ran under the flywheel with the other wire from the coil.

The new coil has a spade connector that the kill switch attaches to.

mech

 

[Rocosil]

Maybe you already have a solid state ignition.
mech

Damn, I got carried away with wishful thinking , but your pictures cleared it all up - much clearer than the parts list. Thanks! I do have the old coil after all, and there is a barely visible cable that disappears behind the flywheel. Well, at least now I know what to look for if I need to replace it.

Bob