036 Pro won't hold vacuum?

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Yeah, I crawled out to the garage in my drunken stuper to see how the label on my "Mighty Vac" was spelled.....And by the time I crawled back, I realized that I didn't give a ****....
 
HarleyT said:
Yeah, most air leaks can be easily found and fixed without breaking down a saw for a total leakdown test. If the guy knows what he is doing ..... But the O.P. here couldn't build up a vacuum, and my contention was that he wouldn't know, because a true leakdown/vac test is difficult, because it takes a hell of a lot of pumping on the "Mighty Vac" to even get the vac needle to even move, and if there is even a slight vac leak, that won't even happen, which told me that most of you guys never even tried to do a proper vac/leakdown test. And if one cannot even say that he "pressurized" a crankcase and got it to hold pressure for 5 minutes
indicates that almost all of you guys have never done a proper "leakdown" test....
Click to expand...
Tell us how BIG EINSTAIN WE ALL WAITING YOU AND YOUR MIND :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
 
I'm not here to harass you, Harley. Only to give clear and concise answers to any questions you might have about my methods, however orthodox or unorthodox they might seem to you. Dunking a saw in water with positive pressure on it causes no harm. It's just a means to an end when you can't pump enough air with a hand pump to find your leaks.
 
Naw, we were just trained to do a leakdown test by the book, we bought the might vac and the other air pressure pump/gauge, and we started with new good running units, but we had to perform a leakdown test, which even on a new saw and all of the stihl tools,
was not an easy chore. They made our employers buy their tool kit, and it usually worked, but the seal around the exhaust usually gave everyone trouble, and after futzing with the farking strip of rubber, and trying to justify to your boss that you "learned" how to do a leakdown test...... Well....... Some fibs might have been uttered...
 
Yeah, trying to build up a noticeable vacuum in even a tight crankcase requires the tech to pump his little guts out, so he just assumes that his case won't hold a vacuum, been there, done that....
 
I've found that sealing the ports is the hardest part of a leak test, but I've got a system down finally. I find the exhaust port the hardest on most saws and I just made up some jigs out of metal to seal against a rubber gasket like material I buy at my auto parts store. My MityVac came with some things to block off the carb port. Sometimes, though, the inside of the boot has a mesh like surface that messes with the carb sealer, in which case I just do something similar to the exhaust port.
 
woodeneye said:
I've found that sealing the ports is the hardest part of a leak test, but I've got a system down finally.
Click to expand...
Yes!!!!! But all of the other guys here don't feel the same way, do they??? They dunk and squirt air, and strut around patting each other on the back, touting their "leakdown test" street cred, even though they have never actually even came close.....Just saying that this is the reality.....
 
HarleyT said:
Yes!!!!! But all of the other guys here don't feel the same way, do they??? They dunk and squirt air, and strut around patting each other on the back, touting their "leakdown test" street cred, even though they have never actually even came close.....Just saying that this is the reality.....
Click to expand...
Post up your saws poser!
 
woodeneye said:
I've found that sealing the ports is the hardest part of a leak test, but I've got a system down finally. I find the exhaust port the hardest on most saws and I just made up some jigs out of metal to seal against a rubber gasket like material I buy at my auto parts store. My MityVac came with some things to block off the carb port. Sometimes, though, the inside of the boot has a mesh like surface that messes with the carb sealer, in which case I just do something similar to the exhaust port.
Click to expand...
You seem to be the only one here that does a proper leakdown test, otherwise these other guys might have chirped in something....
That was the frustrating thing about doing a proper leakdown test, because of all of those pesky leaks that take a bit of time to run down, and the sad fact that the guy that pays your paycheck doesn't give a damn....... He would rather the customer take and use a
saw that needed goosing to keep idling
 
Listen, just because someone doesn't post up their process doesn't mean they don't know how to perform a proper leak test. Truth is, I was probably the only one that cares to take any time to post up how I do it. I'd imagine that's what this boils down to. Just trying to be the voice of reason here: why don't we all just drop it.
 
woodeneye said:
Listen, just because someone doesn't post up their process doesn't mean they don't know how to perform a proper leak test. Truth is, I was probably the only one that cares to take any time to post up how I do it. I'd imagine that's what this boils down to. Just trying to be the voice of reason here: why don't we all just drop it.
Click to expand...
Agreed!!!! Dropped!!!!!
 

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