056mag2 project underway... part one of many

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I am working on mine as well it's a magII. It is 94cc the mag and super are smaller Ducktape. I need to track down a module mine is cracked through to the inside. I am going to order one tonight. I lucked out on this one bigtime no endplay on the crank and tonnes of compression.I took about 10 pounds of sawdust off her too!
 
Hey lake, looking into the intake I see a piece that hangs out into the cylinder. Is that a ring support?

Lakeside53 said:
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Yes, it supports the ring, but it's mainly put in to split the gas flow and cause some turbulence. You don't see it on today's Stihls.
 
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Well Andy, you've jumpstarted my interest in my MII in the garage. It's been sitting all through steelhead season, and after my pike trip, it'll be getting some attention.

Looking good my friend.

And is that yard picture from this year already? I've got lilac blooming, and my fruit trees are flowering thus far.

Jeff
 
Yep.. get on it! I'll have a bunch of parts left over from mine, but you'll need to be quick!

yes, the garden was seconds after the preceding shots of the saw stuff... went outside, and the light was nice, so..
 
The rewind side...

The original.. Spring gummed up, cord stiff as a rod, and and old lawn mower handle...



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Pull all the parts off, drill out the Stihl label rivets, and into the dilute purple cleaner. O.k., I "cheat" a little with the ultrasonic cleaner, but you can get the same result with just more time and some hand work at end to pick out the resin and old junk from the metal grid.


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Paint with stihl Polyurethane gray spray paint, bake in the convection oven for 20 minutes at 225F. Clean the spring - take it out of the retainer, clean the entire length and wind it back in. Clean the rope spool. Shot of Teflon lubricant, and reassemble. I put a used elastostart handle on from an 066. I figure after I advance the ignition slightly, I'll need it.

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The Stihl lables are available, but make sure you also buy the metric rivets.
 
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Wowowowow

How in the hell did I miss this thread. First time I've looked at it. Great to see the "MASTER" in action. There are saw mechanics and then there are those who everyone looks up to as one of the very best, thats you Lakeside. Great work on that 056, I'm impressed. I'd rep ya but system won't let me yet but will as soon as it does. Great work there Andy, top notch 100%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Lakeside53 said:
I'd have just used your Cuda if I was local, but... :(
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Heck you got that saw just as clean as what the Cuda would do. I'm keeping a eye on this thread as you proceed with that saw. So keep them pics coming. This is more my kind of thread. Fun and playing is ok but sometimes its good to get real and learn something. Great job ole feller, keep it going...
 
Good looking work Lake!

Do you have any trouble with the paint chipping when you are putting the saw together? I'm getting my 064 put together finally and I already have a few chips here and there. It's a work saw so it's no big deal but I would like to figure it out. The parts were washed in a 'Cuda like washer and wiped down with a tack rag right before paint. I put the parts on the top of the wood stove for a while in Feb. so they were cured.........

Also, is there a considerable amount of difference in plastic vs metal Stihl tags on the rewind housing? I got some from your neighbor and they were all plastic with nubs instead of rivits.

Advance the timing eh? Got a few mods happening? :D
 
Yep.. I scratch my paint also.. I touch it up after wards, sometimes. This like all my rebuilds isn't a "restoration", but sometimes the condition is so bad you just have to paint it! Wait until you see the muffler(s).


I'd like a paint that is a durable as the original, and the same stuff Stihl puts on bars. Might have to get some real 2 part epoxy collor matched... The Stihl polyurethane is great, but it's not real resistent to gas until a month or two has passed, even if baked.


The metal or plastic tags are cheap. You just have to order the right one, and down to the county.. Mine even says "Made in Germany"...:)



No real mods... yet.. but there is a lot of "adjustment" room in the igntion :)
 
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Changing the seals...

I've done a "few" in my time.. I even have all the fancy tools.. Piece of cake... maybe 15 minutes...

HA!!!! Clutch side seal - out in 3 minutes.. No biggie... Bit tight, really had to put a lot of side tension on, but out it came. The rubber was ROCK SOLID - no wonder it was leaking. Bad buildup of carbon sludge behind the seal, and all over the bearing, but the bearing is in fine shape. Hard to beat those steel-caged balls for longevity.

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Notice that rubber on the seal just crumbled away.. bad..

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Heck, may as well do the flywheel side. Seems a bit hard and it's bound to be packed with carbon sludge.

Tap the seal in a little on 4 corners - it was real tight... Insert the fancy Stihl seal puller - bang, out the puller pops.. Hmmm.. Try again. Ditto... Tried a few more tricks, but that seal isn't going to budge. The rubber has gone rock hard and it's impossible to get a grip on the steel lip. No amount of notched screwdrivers, pullers, levers, or anything else would make it come out.

Start digging, but be really careful - damage the crank or the case and it's all over.

I sharpened a tiny screwdriver into a knife, worked my way around the seal cutting the rubber away from the metal, and pulling out fragments. I needed to wear my binocular magnifiers. PITA... REALLY! And hour or so later I got enough of the rubber out so I could pull the spring, and then the rest of the rubber. Finally after three more tries I got the seal puller to get a grip and pull out the POS old seal. I needed beer...


I tried to turn the crank and it's locked up. GREAT!... But.. been there before - just crud in the bearings. Now I have to flush them out - forcing the crank will just damage the bearings. I used a Q-tip to wipe out the obvious carbon sludge (luckily it was "wet", not dried out or baked on). Then moved the piston to the top (Yes, I'd already put it back togther :( ) to get the big end out of the way, and gently squirted circuit board cleaner/degreaser though the bearings from the outside. The saw was tilted so the excess immediately ran out of the inlet port, and didn't accumulate. Took a while but eventually it ran clear. I poured mix gas into the engine though the inlet port, and let it was though and out of both bearings. Yep, messy... Wiggle the crank at the same time and it came free. Nice and smooth rotation... and the bearings look as clean as new.


Grease the lips and tap in the new seal for the clutch side. The crank on the 056 is fat, so it's hard to find a socket that will work. A 15/16 spark plug socket with the rubber insert removed JUST made it for the clutch side, similarly a 13/16 spark plug socket for the flywheel side. The clutch side is set flush with the bearing; the flywheel side a 1/2mm or so lower than the casting.

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Considering I have all the tools, it would have been easier to just to split the case, but seals are normally easy to do.. Total time - nearly two hours...
 

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