066, whats it worth??

[heimannm]

A little late but...

I bought an 066 Magnum power head with bad bearings and low compression for $150. Fixed it up with a new piston/rings, bearings and seals, complete clutch, and ended up spending around $600 total. I had a 25" bar with several chains that I also used on my 036 so that what it has now.

Mine does not have a compression release. It certainly did not need it when I got it, didn't seem to need it immediately after rebuilding either. Now with a few tanks through it I have to set it on the floor with a knee on top to pull it effectively, no more drop starting for me.

Before

After

Mark

 

[gink595]

gink,
did you get him down a few beans?
how big was the wood you cut?
how did the 8 tooth effect the saw? easily bogged?
you will have a good time using that saw!

Yeah we haggled a bit and he came out with 125 beans less than the original asking $$!! The 90 psi was a major haggling point.

The first day I had it I put it in some 24"+/- red elm with RSC chain, and it cut good, seemed like it should have more but it cut fine. Yesterday I went to a friends house and we cut some white oak about 2' dia. also it seemed to like the oak better than the dead dry red elm!!

Personally I think a 8 pin is too much for a 36" bar, not that it booged easy but it just didn't seem to have the omph I'd figured it to have, I feel that 7900 runs close to it. I will prove that theory at wkpoors gtg saturday. I'll keep ya posted

 

[gink595]

Seems like most of the folks around here don't use the decomp valves anyway. I decided to buy one rather than run a plug just so I can have it to try, but it's probably one of those luxury items.

Looks like you got a good one.

Yeah I don't really understand the need for that decomp, maybe on that 880, that is a mofo to pull but the others??? Like a 361...wtf, why??

 

[blsnelling]

I would drop back to a 7-pin rim on a bar that long. You'll like it much better.

 

[gink595]

I bought an 066 Magnum power head with bad bearings and low compression for $150. Fixed it up with a new piston/rings, bearings and seals, complete clutch, and ended up spending around $600 total. I had a 25" bar with several chains that I also used on my 036 so that what it has now.

Mine does not have a compression release. It certainly did not need it when I got it, didn't seem to need it immediately after rebuilding either. Now with a few tanks through it I have to set it on the floor with a knee on top to pull it effectively, no more drop starting for me.

Before

After

Mark

Actually, the saw I got looks really close to the shape that one of yours is in, If I don't sell this thing I will try and find the correct top cover for it, I just hate stuff that isn't correct for the model.

 

[gink595]

I would drop back to a 7-pin rim on a bar that long. You'll like it much better.

Yes for sure, I have the 7 pin off of the 7900 I'm going to use for the GTG, not really sure why the guy had a 8-pin on there in the first place, maybe the dealer just put what ever he had laying around on it for a bar??

 

[Banshee]

When I brought my 395xp I thought I sell my 066. But the guy told me I'd better hold on to it because it's a classic.
I recommend the same thing to you. Hold on to it. It's a genuine Still classic.
400 isn't bad for a good running saw. I gave 350 for mine. It had 150-153 compression.
I have a 7 pin for mine when I put a 36" bar on it. Even with a 7 pin and semi skip chain it's still not a powerhouse in hard wood.
I like it alot more with a 25" bar.
Congrats on the saw.

 

[forestryworks]

gink, glad you didn't have to resort to house cleaning! nice score.

 

[gink595]

Yes I agree, after I bought it I took it home and tested it again, the snap-on tester showed 150-155 psi consisently. I did however pull the top end down and ran a hone down it and reassembled tonight. I also cleaned up the intake and exhaust ports of the cast flashing for fun, i'm not expecting any gains from it.
The piston did have a little scarring on it on the exhaust side, maybe ran a little lean. The inside of the muffler showed a bit of white like it might have been lean. It isn't something I'm really concerned with, the rings were free and the ring grooves appeared to be fine. I'll give it a try.

edit: lake what happened to your post???

 

[Lakeside53]

lol.. I took it out when I read your earlier post about retesting the comp..


I wouldn't have honed the bore... you had a perfectly good and optimal seal for the old rings and cylinder... you cannot make it better without replacing the rings, and you'll generally make it worse while accelerating ring wear.

White in muffler ? -forget it. Just been run hard - maybe with crappy gas.

 

[gink595]

lol.. I took it out when I read your earlier post about retesting the comp..


I wouldn't have honed the bore... you had a perfectly good and optimal seal for the old rings and cylinder... you cannot make it better without replacing the rings, and you'll generally make it worse while accelerating ring wear.

White in muffler ? -forget it. Just been run hard - maybe with crappy gas.

LOL, I thought I was losing it there, I'm tired but damn reading posts that isn't there isn't right
I was wondering about that(honing), I put the tester back on it after I did that it was about the same. I might just get a set of rings for it tommorow also. I know it's Stihl but they can't be that much, can they?? :greenchainsaw:

 

[Lakeside53]

About $50 a set... but they are good... You can buy junk for $10 or less per set, but...

I'd just use it as is, or, just replace the top ring.


And... the steel cylinder base gasket is "use once only"...

 

[gink595]

About $50 a set... but they are good... You can buy junk for $10 or less per set, but...

I'd just use it as is, or, just replace the top ring.


And... the steel cylinder base gasket is "use once only"...

Can you buy; just the top ring. Why not replace both? Thanks for the heads up on the base gasket, that might be "another item." I have read here where people get rid of the base gasket fro more compression, worth while? Or a disaster waiting to happen? Whats your take on it??

 

[Lakeside53]

You can play games with removing the gasket if you like, but I don't.


Replace both rings if you like. They are sold "each". But...the top ring wears faster then the bottom ring. At 150lb comp there won't be much wrong with the bottom ring. Why just one ?- money... and I'd rather have one new OEM than two aftermarket

 

[Banshee]

Yeah I don't really understand the need for that decomp, maybe on that 880, that is a mofo to pull but the others??? Like a 361...wtf, why??

You can start your 7900 without the decomp? You have to use the decomp on my 7900. When it bites the handle is either going to stop dead in it's tracks or its coming out of your hand.
All my other saws are not bad to start without a decomp.

 

[gink595]

You can start your 7900 without the decomp? You have to use the decomp on my 7900. When it bites the handle is either going to stop dead in it's tracks or its coming out of your hand.
All my other saws are not bad to start without a decomp.

I normally do(not use the decomp), unless the kid pokes the button first!! I know what you mean about the compression of the 7900, if you don't get a good pull, it kinda hurts. It also wears you out quick if you have to pull it several times. I haven't got to use the 7900 enough to from a habit....yet!!:greenchainsaw:

 

[volks-man]

You can start your 7900 without the decomp? You have to use the decomp on my 7900. When it bites the handle is either going to stop dead in it's tracks or its coming out of your hand.
All my other saws are not bad to start without a decomp.

i found out the 660 is like you describe.
without the decomp:
if you just pick it up and pull the rope all willy-nilly the saw snatches it back with authority! i found if you pull lightly till you hit some resistance and then pull hard, it will turn over easily.
with decomp:
a child could pull it over.