260 Pro HOT bar

[WildnCrazyGuy]

Hey guys. Haven't been here in a while. I got this 260 Pro brand new a few years back and every time I use it, I can't use it for long before the bar heats up. I posted about the issue way back when new, but I couldn't parse through all my posts and find it, so I'm posting new now.

So, I've got a 3/8 16" bar on it right now (normal setup, but have a .325 I can go with also) and needed to use it yesterday because of storm damage last week. I had to revert to my 021 which did the job, but I really would like to figure this thing out for good. I think I know what the problem is, I just don't have anything to compare it to because I've never had another 260 and don't have access to another to see. I'm posting a pic of the piece that I think is rubbing the chain and heating things up. The problem is I don't see how the saw would work without the piece in place so it's got me stumped. Any ideas or is this normal wear for this piece? Thanks in advance. You can see right above the oiler the marking stripe(s) the chain is making on the way by. Almost forgot, it heat up so bad in like 5-6 minutes yesterday as I was limbing, the saw locked up like I had put the brake on. After it cooled off it was all good again.

View attachment 301192

 

[Fifelaker]

I don't think that is your problem. Chain too tight, Dull chain, plugged oil holes in bar are the first things that come to mind. It should go through +- a tank of oil to a tank of gas does yours do that?

 

[BloodOnTheIce]

Chains too tight, I adjust the chain until it removes droop and just makes contact
on the underside of the bar and tighten the bar nuts down.

Try running the chain looser see if that helps.

 

[nate cutter]

.058 chain in a .050 bar?

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

I don't think that is your problem. Chain too tight, Dull chain, plugged oil holes in bar are the first things that come to mind. It should go through +- a tank of oil to a tank of gas does yours do that?

Yes. I'm good with all that. Leaks oil like a Ford... I mean oiler put out a lot. I'm no rookie to saws I can set it up to run just fine, properly adjusted chain etc. In fact tonight after I cleaned it all up spic and span for the pic, I ran it for just a couple of minutes, oil slinging everywhere, and no wood and hot enough to cook and egg probably. I also tried to put my 361 20" since it's also a 3/8 bar and chain on it. Ran a couple minutes and ran it out of gas. Not quite as hot, but nevertheless, something ain't quite right. Me thinks friction is the cause and I'm seeing a nice groove in that little metal cover/protector (whatever it is). But I'm not Brad and have seen like (hundreds) of 260's and know what exactly they do. I'm open to suggestions. Keep them coming.

 

[z71mike]

Also, try running the saw for a minute without the chain. Just bar. Give it a bunch of good revs. Oil should be dripping down to the bottom across the silver guide plate. That'll verify the oiler is good.

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

Chains too tight, I adjust the chain until it removes droop and just makes contact
on the underside of the bar and tighten the bar nuts down.

Try running the chain looser see if that helps.

Yep. Tried that a long time ago. Just have to be careful not too keep it too loose because that's what keeps the oil in the groove. Thanks.

No on the .58 chain. It's a .50 3/8 Stihl chain for sure, unless they labeled it wrong from the factory. Plus I have no issues running it on my MS361. It's just too short for that saw...

 

[LowVolt]

So have you tried the .325 setup?

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

So have you tried the .325 setup?

Yes, but sorry it's been so long I can't remember the results for sure. I think I had a tensioning issue with it or something. I don't get to play like I used to. Volunteer firefighter now and it takes much time away, but well worth it.

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

So here is what I've been wondering for quite some time. Does anyone who knows how to read these IPL's make any sense of the two different parts? I wonder if my saw was setup with the wrong part? 18 or 19? They kinda look different in the IPL. What's the diff? Anyone?

View attachment 301207

 

[LowVolt]

So here is what I've been wondering for quite some time. Does anyone who knows how to read these IPL's make any sense of the two different parts? I wonder if my saw was setup with the wrong part? 18 or 19? The kind a look different in the IPL. What's the diff? Anyone?

View attachment 301207

I am not as experienced as some but I have only seen part 18 on quiet a few 026's, 028's and the same one was on my ms260 when i had it. The same part is also on the two 261's i have.

 

[3000 FPS]

I do not see the rubbing on the bar plate making the bar that hot. It might make the chain alittle hot, but for it to get so hot that it locked up like you say, no way. Is the bar turning blue next to the grooves where the chain rides? I would also measure the drivers on the chain and the width of the bar groove with some calipers. At this point I would not take anything for granted.

I would also loosen the chain alittle more like what was suggested and at least try that to see if it makes any difference.

 

[Umbellularia]

18 or 19? They kinda look different in the IPL. What's the diff? Anyone?

My 026 has part 19 instead of 18 (and screw 17). Part 19 is held on with tabs that grab the sides of the bar studs.

 

[xtremez]

My 026 has part 19 instead of 18 (and screw 17). Part 19 is held on with tabs that grab the sides of the bar studs.

Part 19 is for 2 pair of metal prongs that hold the bar on the studs when installing a chain. Some saws have it,some dont. Just like an extra set of hands to hold the bar in place with the clutch cover off. No big deal

 

[Thommo]

Take the chain off and check the sprocket tip of the bar to see how freely it runs. i have seen a batch of GB bars that had the wrong size tips fitted that were pinched too tight by the rivets. Its possible that others make the same mistake occasionally.
Are you running a rim sprocket or spur? A rim sprocket that doesnt line up with the bar groove can cause wear on that plate on your bar mount and also stop the chain cutting properly. Tighten your bar nuts with the clutch cover off and use a steel ruler or hacksaw blade in the top of the bar groove to see if it lines up with the groove in the sprocket if it is a rim sprocket.

 

[Typhke]

Yes. I'm good with all that. Leaks oil like a Ford... I mean oiler put out a lot. I'm no rookie to saws I can set it up to run just fine, properly adjusted chain etc. In fact tonight after I cleaned it all up spic and span for the pic, I ran it for just a couple of minutes, oil slinging everywhere, and no wood and hot enough to cook and egg probably. I also tried to put my 361 20" since it's also a 3/8 bar and chain on it. Ran a couple minutes and ran it out of gas. Not quite as hot, but nevertheless, something ain't quite right. Me thinks friction is the cause and I'm seeing a nice groove in that little metal cover/protector (whatever it is). But I'm not Brad and have seen like (hundreds) of 260's and know what exactly they do. I'm open to suggestions. Keep them coming.

Try running your 16" bar on the 361 for a while and see if it gets as hot as on the 026, or run the 20" some more on your 026 so you can be sure that it is the saw or the bar/chain causing the problem. The rubbing with the metal cover is pretty normal as far as I know, I haven't seen a saw that hasn't got any marks on the metal plate after some use.
If the problem is caused by the bar/chain, check your sprocket like they already said and give it a good clean with oil and inspect the sprocket and rails completely to make sure everything looks like it should. Make sure the oil holes are clean and open. Then go on with the chain. If the saw is oiling like you say it is, I would suspect that the problem is caused by your bar/chain.

 

[Redoakranch]

Make sure to check for a slight pinch in the bar and clean out the bar groove. These two items caused exactly what you described on my 346xp.

 

[LegDeLimber]

First off, I have no firsthand knowledge of the saw model.

So I'm just going on all the various things I have heated, welded, ground on, etc over the years..

As thin as that piece is, If it were rubbing the chain enough to cause the heat buildup, (even with good oiler flow right there)
I seriously believe you'd see some heat discoloration of that part.
If the chain is rubbing that guide plate when running and that's
not just routine damage from occasional derailings
Then I'm with the guys saying to check alignment and bent or pinched
bar and rails.

and again, because I don't know the saw,
I''ll have to ask the other folks if any anti-vib mounts
could be torn/weak/old (or quirky chassis twists bar stud shifting, etc ) contribute to a miss-alignment issue?

sorry if i'm just making useless noise here,
But occasionally a question just pulls me in.

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll take a closer look at the bar and chain and recheck and verify part numbers and pitch .050 etc. I only have two Stihl RSC chains I bought for that bar and maybe they're not what they said they were or something, so I'll double check with some crappy calipers I have. Hopefully they will set me straight. I have some 20" 3/8 .050 Stihl RSC chains still new in the boxes I can compare the widths to and so forth. I'm working all weekend at the firehouse so I probably won't get much time to play, but I can take the bars and chains with me and see what I come up with. I'll reply back what I find.

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

Checked and rechecked stuff today. Looks all good. BUT. I may have found my issue, except I'm not sure how to fix or what it is. I looked at everything and I mean everything and I'm just stumped...

So, how do you like your chains tensioned? Like this? :msp_biggrin:

View attachment 301416

Or like this? :msp_scared:

View attachment 301417


So the thing is, this is the same tensioned bar, just 3-4 links apart. Does this every 3-4 links. Bar is straight, crank has no wobble, rim sprocket looks great, bar nose sprocket seems good, I've looked at it every way from Sunday with calipers and I see nothing wrong, nothing out of line, nothing with the rim making any movement up, down, sideways, nothing. But I think whatever it is may be my issue. I like to tension like the first picture, if I do that, then I suspect it gets way tight (so overtightened chain may be the actual issue) as it travels the 3-4 links throughout the bar.


The thing is, you don't notice it when tensioning under normal circumstances. By that I mean after getting it just right, I give it a whirl around the bar. Seems pretty normal at that point. IF I go slow and light, I get these hang up points like something is getting in a bind or hindering the forward progress, for just a split 1/4 inch then it smoothes out and continues onward. Sometimes the cycle is not as persistent around the bar, but may only be due to the forward progress. Again, not sure what it is. Don't think it's normal in any way and is likely at least a contributing factor in my issue. Thanks for input.

Finally, how do you get your pics to show up in the thread without having to open them. I know this site has changed, and I'm an IT guy and used to explain how to post pics in this forum, but I missing how to do that too. Other than that, I like the new look to the site. Thanks.