260 Pro HOT bar

[LowVolt]

Checked and rechecked stuff today. Looks all good. BUT. I may have found my issue, except I'm not sure how to fix or what it is. I looked at everything and I mean everything and I'm just stumped...

So, how do you like your chains tensioned? Like this? :msp_biggrin:

View attachment 301416

Or like this? :msp_scared:

View attachment 301417


So the thing is, this is the same tensioned bar, just 3-4 links apart. Does this every 3-4 links. Bar is straight, crank has no wobble, rim sprocket looks great, bar nose sprocket seems good, I've looked at it every way from Sunday with calipers and I see nothing wrong, nothing out of line, nothing with the rim making any movement up, down, sideways, nothing. But I think whatever it is may be my issue. I like to tension like the first picture, if I do that, then I suspect it gets way tight (so overtightened chain may be the actual issue) as it travels the 3-4 links throughout the bar.


The thing is, you don't notice it when tensioning under normal circumstances. By that I mean after getting it just right, I give it a whirl around the bar. Seems pretty normal at that point. IF I go slow and light, I get these hang up points like something is getting in a bind or hindering the forward progress, for just a split 1/4 inch then it smoothes out and continues onward. Sometimes the cycle is not as persistent around the bar, but may only be due to the forward progress. Again, not sure what it is. Don't think it's normal in any way and is likely at least a contributing factor in my issue. Thanks for input.

Finally, how do you get your pics to show up in the thread without having to open them. I know this site has changed, and I'm an IT guy and used to explain how to post pics in this forum, but I missing how to do that too. Other than that, I like the new look to the site. Thanks.

I had a similar problem with a 180c. When pulling the chain to check tension the chain would hang up every now and then. But that is a completely different kind of setup. Spur vs. rim. I also had a chain SPARKING issue with a 036. If I would jolt the saw good in my hands while running it the chain would throw a decent amount of sparks. That actually turned out to be the sprocket needle bearing. What I am saying is you might want to pop off the rim sprocket drum/needle bearing and make sure that is all good.

I like my chains tensioned like the first pic.

 

[walexa07]

Checked and rechecked stuff today. Looks all good. BUT. I may have found my issue, except I'm not sure how to fix or what it is. I looked at everything and I mean everything and I'm just stumped...

So, how do you like your chains tensioned? Like this? :msp_biggrin:

View attachment 301416

Or like this? :msp_scared:

View attachment 301417


So the thing is, this is the same tensioned bar, just 3-4 links apart. Does this every 3-4 links. Bar is straight, crank has no wobble, rim sprocket looks great, bar nose sprocket seems good, I've looked at it every way from Sunday with calipers and I see nothing wrong, nothing out of line, nothing with the rim making any movement up, down, sideways, nothing. But I think whatever it is may be my issue. I like to tension like the first picture, if I do that, then I suspect it gets way tight (so overtightened chain may be the actual issue) as it travels the 3-4 links throughout the bar.


The thing is, you don't notice it when tensioning under normal circumstances. By that I mean after getting it just right, I give it a whirl around the bar. Seems pretty normal at that point. IF I go slow and light, I get these hang up points like something is getting in a bind or hindering the forward progress, for just a split 1/4 inch then it smoothes out and continues onward. Sometimes the cycle is not as persistent around the bar, but may only be due to the forward progress. Again, not sure what it is. Don't think it's normal in any way and is likely at least a contributing factor in my issue. Thanks for input.

Finally, how do you get your pics to show up in the thread without having to open them. I know this site has changed, and I'm an IT guy and used to explain how to post pics in this forum, but I missing how to do that too. Other than that, I like the new look to the site. Thanks.

The chain, when properly adjusted, should look like your first photo. Start with the chain looking like your second pic, hold the tip of the bar up, and tighten the adjuster "just" until the chain kisses the bottom of the bar. Continue to hold the tip of the bar up while you tighten the bar nuts. Once adjusted, you should be able to pull the chain around the bar with very little resistance.

Sometimes if one is not careful, when removing the bar/chain, you can bend the drive links in the sprocket by lifting the bar/chain off the saw while the drive links are still in the sprocket. Might be hard to see, but this could be what has happened and what is causing the rough spots you speak of. To verify if this is what happened, put a new chain on and adjust per above and see if it pulls smoothly.

Waylan

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

To verify if this is what happened, put a new chain on and adjust per above and see if it pulls smoothly.

Waylan

Same thing with new chain. Tried that today during my testing and checking. Thanks.

 

[B Harrison]

I have a total super hard nose 16" 325 050 that I ordered in the group buy last go around that does the same thing. Over heats instantly.

New bar
New rs chain
sprays a light mist at high rev

Smokes oil at the bar tip after one cut bar is glove only hot after two cuts......

cleaned bar
loosened chain 2x (it slides very freely)
visual inspection shows nothing.

Aside from just giving up on this bar I am lost. I have to have a new bar for my 346 for a job this week, so I will be out $38, might call total today and see what they suggest.

 

[SawTroll]

Try another rim - this is starting to "smell" like a rim that is out of round (or badly wore out)! :msp_scared:

 

[THALL10326]

Checked and rechecked stuff today. Looks all good. BUT. I may have found my issue, except I'm not sure how to fix or what it is. I looked at everything and I mean everything and I'm just stumped...

So, how do you like your chains tensioned? Like this? :msp_biggrin:

View attachment 301416

Or like this? :msp_scared:

View attachment 301417


So the thing is, this is the same tensioned bar, just 3-4 links apart. Does this every 3-4 links. Bar is straight, crank has no wobble, rim sprocket looks great, bar nose sprocket seems good, I've looked at it every way from Sunday with calipers and I see nothing wrong, nothing out of line, nothing with the rim making any movement up, down, sideways, nothing. But I think whatever it is may be my issue. I like to tension like the first picture, if I do that, then I suspect it gets way tight (so overtightened chain may be the actual issue) as it travels the 3-4 links throughout the bar.


The thing is, you don't notice it when tensioning under normal circumstances. By that I mean after getting it just right, I give it a whirl around the bar. Seems pretty normal at that point. IF I go slow and light, I get these hang up points like something is getting in a bind or hindering the forward progress, for just a split 1/4 inch then it smoothes out and continues onward. Sometimes the cycle is not as persistent around the bar, but may only be due to the forward progress. Again, not sure what it is. Don't think it's normal in any way and is likely at least a contributing factor in my issue. Thanks for input.

Finally, how do you get your pics to show up in the thread without having to open them. I know this site has changed, and I'm an IT guy and used to explain how to post pics in this forum, but I missing how to do that too. Other than that, I like the new look to the site. Thanks.

If those pics are your bar its nots getting too hot, the powder coat is all intact on it. Bars do get warm when cutting...

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

Try another rim - this is starting to "smell" like a rim that is out of round (or badly wore out)! :msp_scared:

Thanks Troll. Haven't been here in a while. Nice to see you're still around giving great advice. I agree with the rim. Even though it looks ok and I measured everything on it including the depth of the driving, I did have a coworker who is great mechanically (works on small engines on the side) take a look at it with me today. He thinks the rim is smaller in width where the drivers go through it. As we rolled it around by hand, I could see very slightly that it had a very slight gap that opened up between the chai and the rim but only partly way around. You could hardly see it, but it might be enough to make my chain do what it's doing. Long story short, I do have a .325 rim at the house I will swap everything out and check it with my .325 setup 16" bar setup.

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

If those pics are your bar its nots getting too hot, the powder coat is all intact on it. Bars do get warm when cutting...

Yeah Tommie. Good to see you're still around too. I know they get warm, but I'm telling ya this is hot. I used the saw for less than 10 minutes and it locked up tight on me. After it cooled, it was all good again. I'm with you. The bar is holding up well due to the heat. I've seen what you're talking about on my 021. Maybe I just haven't been able to get it hot enough for a sustained amount of time to do that damage. It gets hot and I cut it off. Haven't used it but a handful of times, maybe 8-10 total?

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

So. Still trying to figure this thing out. Pulling my hair out. I've even bought new stuff to try to diagnose. Picking up a new 3/8 .50 16 inch bar from dealer on Monday. New rim sprocket, chains didn't seem to make any difference. I don't think it's a bar either, but never hurts to have extra stuff for later.

My question tonight is this. Is it just me or is it a real PIA to properly adjust the chain on an MS260? Just when I think I have it, it's either too loose or too tight. Maybe I just came from an old "crappy" 021 with Picco 16 inch that seemed to hit it right every time. I also have a MS361 with a 3/8 20. Never really a problem. Seem to hit the chain adjust just right 9 out of 10 on a bad day. Same thing with my MS290 with either a .325 16 or 20. Never seemingly an issue. I have this MS260 and I'd say on a good day it takes 3-4 times to think I might have it right.

Just curious if anyone else finds it worse than other Stihls to properly adjust. Thanks.

 

[z71mike]

My 026 isn't a problem, and it's the same parts as a 260.