2nd saw for a weekend warrior

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olyeller

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Well, I've tried to sneak this question into two other threads and I've gotten zero replies. So now I'm asking directly for guidance.

I'm a weekend warrior cutting firewood for personal use, working California oak that sometimes gets to be 24" or more in diameter. Therefore, I selected a saw with the most horsepower for the money, a Stihl MS 390 with a 20" b&c. I've already read many of the posts flaming the 390 as an overweight turd with lousy AV, but it has worked very well for me in this hard, big oak. Also, I chose the 390 over the 310 or 290 to get the most horsepower in this 13-pound package.

After cutting with this for a while, I must admit it's not the most handy package around. I could use something smaller and lighter for limbing and slicing up kindling. Also, CAD is seeping into my brain so I'm looking for a second saw, one that is lighter and handier. So do I stay with Stihl and choose between a 170, 180 or even a 192 T? Or do I step up a class to a MS 250--again, the most power in that package? I want to keep the price around $300 or so, and I'm open to other brands as well.

So chime in, boys! And to get my own thread sidetracked before we even start, to give you an idea of how bad my CAD is getting, I almost bought a pristine used MS 460 today--even had the guy agree to my price--but got snaked on it just before I got in the car to go see it. What I was going to do with that saw, I have no idea...
 
I would go with the MS192

Its light, and you can get a 16 inch bar with it.

It will cut hard when needed (pushed to the max) and not do itself in.

From the pricing you can tell its a late model design, and weight and maneuverability are your issues from the sound of it. You dost need the hp of the 250 for that kind of work (the 250 was my other choice, for my cutting, though I went with the MS270 in the end) and I do about 10 cords a year, so its a pretty serious cutting saw, more for steady wood pile work on 12 inch average sized logs.
 
As you can see in my signature I have a MS 390 and after I drilled 1 extra hole and richened up the high speed needle it cuts very well and is not overly loud. My main saw is my 024AVS, I run it more then all the others combined. I bought it used at a saw shop for $175 and it had been rebuilt by the shop and was/is in awesome condition. I use this saw for everything under 10" as it is light, nimble, quiet, and runs forever on a tank of fuel. A MS 180 would do for a second saw, but a decent used 024 or 026 can be found for about the same or less money and it will serve you better in that oak. I think the 170 and 192T are a bit too underpowered for oak, but they sure are light. A small saw will still cut your oak, but it will take longer and work you and the saw more in the end.

Shame you got beat out on that saw, I got beat to a real nice MS 066 that a local guy was selling for $500. I had one saw in the beginning of December and had plans to get one extra saw.
 
Well, I've tried to sneak this question into two other threads and I've gotten zero replies. So now I'm asking directly for guidance.

I'm a weekend warrior cutting firewood for personal use, working California oak that sometimes gets to be 24" or more in diameter. Therefore, I selected a saw with the most horsepower for the money, a Stihl MS 390 with a 20" b&c. I've already read many of the posts flaming the 390 as an overweight turd with lousy AV, but it has worked very well for me in this hard, big oak. Also, I chose the 390 over the 310 or 290 to get the most horsepower in this 13-pound package.

After cutting with this for a while, I must admit it's not the most handy package around. I could use something smaller and lighter for limbing and slicing up kindling. Also, CAD is seeping into my brain so I'm looking for a second saw, one that is lighter and handier. So do I stay with Stihl and choose between a 170, 180 or even a 192 T? Or do I step up a class to a MS 250--again, the most power in that package? I want to keep the price around $300 or so, and I'm open to other brands as well.

So chime in, boys! And to get my own thread sidetracked before we even start, to give you an idea of how bad my CAD is getting, I almost bought a pristine used MS 460 today--even had the guy agree to my price--but got snaked on it just before I got in the car to go see it. What I was going to do with that saw, I have no idea...

What u would have done would have been leave the 390 in the in the saw dust!:buttkick: To stay on track of your question the 210 230 and 250 are light durable saws and the 170 - 180 don't hold a candle to them in the power subject.:cheers:
 
If you are not into heavy mods, the smaller stihls you have mentioned are great saws...Everyone around here does talk pro saws, but for the average firewood guy or weekend warrior clamshell design saws are fine as long as the come from a reputable company...For power to weight I would say the you will be disappointed in a ms260 or even a husky 346...If you want a small saw, buy a small saw not a saw that weighs a couple pounds less than what you have w/ the same power...
 
My recommendation to you is to see what dealers you have around you. Let us know what brands are available to you (and for which you can receive service) and then we can chat about what the best models are. As it is, you have MANY choices... if you can narrow things down, it would help.

The 250 that you're talking about is only as well liked as your 390, although I have one and it has served me very well. No complaints from me on that saw... same thing, though, you have to open 'em up a bit before you get performance you can appreciate.

My feeling is you shouldn't get a saw that's too small. What you have now is a medium-large saw... I think you should get a medium small saw... 40 to 50cc. It can handle itty bitty jobs with ease and you can still cut decent size stuff without carrying around too much weight.
 
Thanks for the input, guys. Please keep the suggestions coming.

Andre probably has the best point about my need to find a good dealer. That has been the whole problem with my purchasing decisions; all the ones I've visited so far are terrible! I guess I need to spend some time just visiting dealer after dealer until I find a decent one. The two closest Stihl dealers wouldn't even talk to me, so I ended up buying my 390 from a nursery supply that simply had good displays and catalogs on hand, plus a helpful young guy who had no first-hand experience and only bolted on the bar for my saw "dealer prep" work.

Until I find someone with a brain in a dealership, you guys are all I have. So many thanks to you all!
 
You can't go wrong with the ms180. I've cut plenty of rounds typically considered too big for this saw and it just kept on sawin. :chainsaw:
 
What u would have done would have been leave the 390 in the in the saw dust!:buttkick: To stay on track of your question the 210 230 and 250 are light durable saws and the 170 - 180 don't hold a candle to them in the power subject.:cheers:
Read what Woodchuck wrote here and you wont be disappointed.

Those 170's and 180's look good on the shelf and I like the big gas and oil caps. But notice the cute little polesaw chains on'em...YEAH yeah They Suck!
 
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I totally understand you wanting to stick with Stihl. I'm a Stihlhead myself and love their pro saws. But there are much better options to ALL of their homeowner saws. They are ALL clamshell engines and difficult to work on.

Temped by a MS460? Buy it and sell your 390. You would be amazed at the difference. That would cover anything you're going to need on the big end.

How small a saw do you want? Do you anticipate a 3rd saw to round out your lineup?

If only going with two saws, get a MS260 or Husky 346XP. The 346 is a stronger saw and more modern design. You would love the way it handles. Another option here is the Dolmar 420. It is a lot of saw for the money and is super strong for its engine size. You will need to get rid of the cat muffler though.

Three saws? Maybe still get the 346, maybe jump it to a MS361 or 357XP. Then get yourself a really small saw. You would be amazed how often you will grab it first. The strongest I've run out of the box is a Shindaiwa 377. The strongest modded is a Redmax 3800. It will smash a MS200. Forget the MS180. It's a much inferior built saw.
 
Now we're getting somewhere

Guys, this is a great help; thanks for your input and keep it coming!

In a perfect world, I would have feigned illness, left work, jumped in the car, siphoned money out of the bank account and nailed down that MS 460. Then I would have sold my 390 and gotten a MS 260 to round out a great two-saw combo. Excepting for the fact that my wife would have shot me and thrown the saws in the trash.

Back to reality, I'm thinking maybe a MS 250 or a used 024 or 026 might be a good 2nd saw to go with the 390--at least for the time being. Brad mentioned the Shindaiwa 377; how does that compare to a MS 250 in my present 2-saw plan? Does the 377 run well in stock trim or would I have to muff mod it and void the warranty?

I did enjoy the thrill of the CL chase in going for that 460, so maybe I'll just keep searching the listings until I fall into some great deals. That 260/460 two-saw plan is something to aspire to...
 
Shindaiwa 377 or maybe a 446s. Both run great in stock trim. A 446s would be my pick.
Mike
 
Brad mentioned the Shindaiwa 377; how does that compare to a MS 250 in my present 2-saw plan? Does the 377 run well in stock trim or would I have to muff mod it and void the warranty?

I totally understand you wanting to stick with Stihl. I'm a Stihlhead myself and love their pro saws. But there are much better options to ALL of their homeowner saws. They are ALL clamshell engines and difficult to work on.

The strongest I've run out of the box is a Shindaiwa 377. The strongest modded is a Redmax 3800. It will smash a MS200. Forget the MS180. It's a much inferior built saw.

Brad ended up with my old 377 and did some work to it. It ran great when I had it, so I can only imagine how it runs now. He said that it is the best out of the box. I still would go with the 446s, alot more power with miminal weight gain and better av.
Just my .02,
Mike

P.S. Shindaiwa's are all pro saws!
 
I would go with an MS 260, it is a tad heavy for constant limbing, however it can easily fill in your you other saw in a pinch, and shouldn't be too much of a bear for what sounds like a little limbing.

Has to be used to fit the budget of 300USD, but I agree if it has to be a Stihl.....
 
The point is he does not need a so called pro saw, he needs a limbing saw.

While I am comitted to Stihl (and my research is there), the reality is unless you want to throw money away, you don't buy a pro saw for every use.

So what if the small Stihls have clamshell engine that can't be rebuilt?

You also need to stay current with the line. There are new saws with different features and there are older design saws.

He won't ever NEED to rebuild it! He is limbming all of 10 cords a year!, not cutting heavy timer day in and out. He is cuttign the 10 cords with his other saw.

Its hardwood, so he needs a good saw, but I have yet to see a Stihl that won't cut beyond its so called rated category when it needs to. Obviously its not all day long. An MS 192 will over cut when needed and not hurt it.

So will an MS180, but keep in mind that he wants ease of use, the 192 is 2 lbs LESS than a 180. Yes you pay the price, but then this is a long term investment. 192 is another wolf in sheeps clothing as its obliviously a small pro saw in the so called Occasional use category. Stihl does a poor job of organizing their saws class and use wise.

If he is a pro limbing all day long then a pro saw makes sense (i.e rebuildable).

The MS270 is not a pro saw, but the way I use it, it will never see a rebuild.
If it does, 20 years from now, you will buy a new saw not rebuild it. Cost won't be worth it.

Net cost to me for the saw, $20 a year if it last 20 years.

Back to saw selection, the first thing you do is "define your need" then look for the saw of whatever manufacture that fulfills it.

Mfg has a lot of selection criteria, from what you like, ergonomics, support etc.
 

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