346xp hesitation

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nmurph said:
Yep, rich and fuel pooling in crankcase. Sometimes these carbs will wear out and the only way to stop this is by notching the throttle plate a little.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
if this carb is worn out after 7 tanks since I bought it new then I will throw it in the pond and buy a poulan:):)
ok,,,, heres what I just did even though the saw is still warm,,,, brought it back up to running temp,, leaned low side out until rpms started dropping good,,, started richening it up slowly until it just started smoothing out and stopped,,, idle is 3000 and I had to lean out high side just a tad to get it back to 13900,,,after resetting the high side I let it idle for about a minute a couple of times,, no rpm drop and almost no hesitation off idle,,, going to check everything again later this evening when it gets stone cold again and see what happens,, I know this thread makes me sound stupid but this saw has been giving me a headache,,, I have tuned hundreds of saws but this one has just about drove me nuts
 
sunfish said:
Low side maybe too rich?

Mine have a little hesitation when cold and none when warmed up.
Click to expand...


Yeah, could be that too. One way to tell whether it's rich or lean can be determined by whether or not you get some smoke when it revs up. If it's loading up, then usually some smoke when it clears itself out. None was mentioned, so I assumed it was going the other way. I know.............never assume! o_O
 
o8f150 said:
if this carb is worn out after 7 tanks since I bought it new then I will throw it in the pond and buy a poulan:):)
ok,,,, heres what I just did even though the saw is still warm,,,, brought it back up to running temp,, leaned low side out until rpms started dropping good,,, started richening it up slowly until it just started smoothing out and stopped,,, idle is 3000 and I had to lean out high side just a tad to get it back to 13900,,,after resetting the high side I let it idle for about a minute a couple of times,, no rpm drop and almost no hesitation off idle,,, going to check everything again later this evening when it gets stone cold again and see what happens,, I know this thread makes me sound stupid but this saw has been giving me a headache,,, I have tuned hundreds of saws but this one has just about drove me nuts
Click to expand...

You still need to tune it if there is ANY hesitation off idle. Even stock, 346's have exceptionally quick throttle response. My ported 346's are light light switches.
 
o8f150 said:
if this carb is worn out after 7 tanks since I bought it new then I will throw it in the pond and buy a poulan:):)
ok,,,, heres what I just did even though the saw is still warm,,,, brought it back up to running temp,, leaned low side out until rpms started dropping good,,, started richening it up slowly until it just started smoothing out and stopped,,, idle is 3000 and I had to lean out high side just a tad to get it back to 13900,,,after resetting the high side I let it idle for about a minute a couple of times,, no rpm drop and almost no hesitation off idle,,, going to check everything again later this evening when it gets stone cold again and see what happens,, I know this thread makes me sound stupid but this saw has been giving me a headache,,, I have tuned hundreds of saws but this one has just about drove me nuts
Click to expand...
NEVER lean out the high side to drop RPM's you'll fry it !!
Always go richer.
 
nmurph said:
You still need to tune it if there is ANY hesitation off idle. Even stock, 346's have exceptionally quick throttle response. My ported 346's are light light switches.
Click to expand...

I agree, if you have any hesitation warm something isn't adjusted correctly.

Later
Dan
 
ok,,, heres what happened,, I leaned the low side back,,, now it is doggie until it warms up good but its not loading up during idle,,, it still had a hesitation to it even if I richened the low side back up,, idle was 3000 and wot was 13900,, so before I threw it in the creek I put it back in the shop and came in the house,, so a while ago I was sitting on the jon thinking about my future and of course it was looking pretty crappy,,, it dawned on me,,, this saw always ran perfect in the summer,, so I went out there and pulled the top cover off and moved the flapper or what ever you want to call it to the winter position which opens air intake from around the engine,,, run another half tank through it and it only stumbled 1 time,,, so my conclusion is this is a warm weather saw,, guess I will leave it open,,, is this a good conclusion or am I just being stupid
 
o8f150 said:
when I leaned it out I was only taching 13100
Click to expand...

I'm hoping that you know better than to adjust H mixture by tach reading. A/F ratio is the important thing, such that noticeable change @WOT takes place on lifting. (2-stroking to 4-stroking.) See to that, and you should be right about 12.5:1 under load.
 
This is the way I do it, might help you

Warm up saw with a cut or two

Turn in idle adjustment till it's a little too fast

Turn L till you find fastest tickover (take your time and let the engine settle) then turn it out 1/4 turn richer

Rev the saw a few times to see throttle response and adjust L lightly if needed

Adjust H to whatever you want

Check saw revs as you want then lower idle

I was told the best way to set idle was with a properly fitted bar and chain, turn out idle screw one full turn from the point where the chain stops moving

Sent from my GT-I9210T using Tapatalk
 
o8f150 said:
ok,,, heres what happened,, I leaned the low side back,,, now it is doggie until it warms up good but its not loading up during idle,,, it still had a hesitation to it even if I richened the low side back up,, idle was 3000 and wot was 13900,, so before I threw it in the creek I put it back in the shop and came in the house,, so a while ago I was sitting on the jon thinking about my future and of course it was looking pretty crappy,,, it dawned on me,,, this saw always ran perfect in the summer,, so I went out there and pulled the top cover off and moved the flapper or what ever you want to call it to the winter position which opens air intake from around the engine,,, run another half tank through it and it only stumbled 1 time,,, so my conclusion is this is a warm weather saw,, guess I will leave it open,,, is this a good conclusion or am I just being stupid
Click to expand...

Scott, does this saw have a limited coil (blue)? You shouldn't need the winter flap in Ky this time of year- what was the temp when this was happening? If it wasn't below 15-20°F, then it shouldn't need the extra heat from the motor.

Does this saw have the stock Zama or the Walbro 199?
 
nmurph said:
Scott, does this saw have a limited coil (blue)? You shouldn't need the winter flap in Ky this time of year- what was the temp when this was happening? If it wasn't below 15-20°F, then it shouldn't need the extra heat from the motor.

Does this saw have the stock Zama or the Walbro 199?
Click to expand...
it is the unlimited coil,,, I think it is the walbro carb,, never looked at it that close
 
treesmith said:
This is the way I do it, might help you

Warm up saw with a cut or two

Turn in idle adjustment till it's a little too fast

Turn L till you find fastest tickover (take your time and let the engine settle) then lean it out 1/4 turn

Rev the saw a few times to see throttle response and adjust L lightly if needed

Adjust H to whatever you want

Check saw revs as you want then lower idle

I was told the best way to set idle was with a properly fitted bar and chain, turn out idle screw one full turn from the point where the chain stops moving

Sent from my GT-I9210T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Lean it out a 1/4 turn or turn it out 1/4 turn?

Thanks,

Waylan
 
sunfish said:
Just trade in on a 550xp AT... :D
Click to expand...

i just got a 550 from terry. i never had any significant run time on an autotune before and everyone i ran was well broken in so never felt the new saw experience. you guys weren't BS'ing when you said they get stronger tank after tank. heck the thing felt like a clapped out piece of **** first tank. all rev and no torque whatsoever. 3rd tank in she really started to impress. i would say it is as strong as my muffler modded 346 after 3 tanks, anxious to get more run time on her. :givebeer:
 
nmurph said:
Yep, rich and fuel pooling in crankcase. Sometimes these carbs will wear out and the only way to stop this is by notching the throttle plate a little.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
By notching do you mean create a extra air flow by venting the throttle butterfly? Is this the same as raising the idle? I an not trying to be a pain just curious.
 

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