350 rebuild

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Old Cane

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I found a deal on a 350 here in town. Sometimes she runs, sometimes she don't. Is there a good book on where to start when working on saws? I have another thread with basically the same question I guess. I can usually figure stuff out on my own with small engines but these can kill ya so I guess I'm looking for info on mostly on what NOT to do.
 
Basics?

I would start by testing the compression, then remove the carb and carefully check the internals. Clean and reassemble the carb. Check the spark, check the fuel system-filter, line cracks, etc. I just finished a 350 rebuild that wasn't too bad. I'm not entirely familiar with Huskys, but when I put the new piston in, the ring gap was plenty good, and everything was cleaned, but still only had around 140# compression initially. This seems low, but it runs like a top.
 
Well I would if I had it. I said I found one, not that I bought it yet. The owner told me:

Sometimes she runs, sometimes she don't.

I just took on faith he's an Aaron Tippin fan.

So, my basic question had nothing to do with this particular saw. My question was.....Is there a good book on where to start when working on saws?
 
350 workshop manual might be a good place to start. I have a copy now if I could only remember where I got it from. :dizzy: If I can find the website I'll post a link.
 
Ron, that's probably a good idea. Skip, you are probably right. Heck, I've even got one o' them video camera and could even post the noises she makes....or doesn't make.....so the experts could jump in. Hmmm, repair by video. Not bad, guys.

I'll bet though it's something like a dirty fuel filter or something simple. I mean it runs sometimes, right? He said he checked the plug and filter (air) and that's all he knows about saws. What's sad is that's really all you should need to know in a perfect world.
 
Snoop around here. There are a couple different 350 manuals and a husqvarna chainsaw manual.

But like Skip said this is the place for hands on info.
 
How good is good? Let's have some numbers! Every fix has a price..if he's selling it for $150, it is a decent deal on a saw with a leeeetle problem, but not a good price on a saw with a big problem, like a blown up top end.

Lotta guys like the 350 and they are very much worth having. Of major concern is the condition of the top end. Don't buy it unless you pop the muffler and look at the piston. If the piston looks good, chances just went waaaay up that it is a good deal. The other things that are LIKELY wrong with it (no guarantees, of course) are pretty inexpensive if you do them yourself.

If the piston is chummed up, you are now in "maybe" land. If you can just replace the piston, the saw MAY still be a good deal, if the jug is shot, not so much.
 
Pop the muffler. If he's uncomfortable letting you do that, pull it over to get a feel for compression. If the piston gives you a lot of good feedback (strong pulses as you pull the rope = good compression), the top end is PROBABLY ok. Nothing like a visual inspection, though. You'll immediately see flaws in the piston if they are there. Do all this, BTW, using words like "hmmm," and "huh." Sigh a lot and make little clicking noises with your tongue or something. Nothing more.

If the top end is good and he goes for the $50, you stole it. If the top end is bad, $50 is still a good price, just not "laughing-madly-and kissing-the-ground" good. I would then go about looking for a used top end. You might need to have patience until the part shows up.

One of the other guys would know whether there are less expensive aftermarket top end kits for the 350. If there are, a new aftermarket setup will probably cost you $100. So your 350 would cost you $150, which is a decent price on a good used runner.

Keep us posted!!
 

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