I'm not talking a rope. 3/8 logging chains, a good string of them or equivalent cable, and pulling with a ratcheting chain cum along (I think mine is 3-ton) anchored to a large tree or pulling with a large tractor.
40ft Tree (broken) Leaning 40ft Tree
- Thread starter born2ollie
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I'm not talking a rope. 3/8 logging chains, a good string of them or equivalent cable, and pulling with a ratcheting chain cum along (I think mine is 3-ton) anchored to a large tree or pulling with a large tractor.
WI_Hedgehog
You bought a WHAT???!!
@born2ollie : In simple terms, the risks @TheJollyLogger is talking about (as I understand them) are:
The tree is leaning, so the wood on the "tight" side wants to pop and can smack a person standing near it, which with a short bar would be you. It could potentially drive your ribs from the front of your chest to the back near your spine, flattening you pretty much instantly. The speed and force the tree has is unbelievable--until you see it.
The tree has a big split, so once the wood holding the tree up is cut the thin walls around the outside of the tree can crumple and blow out, throwing wood at you--kind of like throwing a solid wood stake at a vampire, but in this case it's you getting impaled and you're not in a movie.
Limbs above you are always a danger, they can break off and hundreds (or thousands) of pounds can mash you into the ground like a nail hit by a huge hammer. Imagine a bowling ball up there being dropped on you, and that's only 18 pounds or so--this is perhaps a thousand or more pounds per limb and huge.
The problem tree you're trying to address fell into another tree, so the risk is increased because when they separate one is likely ripping limbs off the other and launching them. They fly unpredictably, so it is pretty dangerous.
I do landscaping and can tell you from experience twisty trees are unpredictable, and I don't like them. Every time I study a tree and think I have all the forces figured out there's something unexpected somewhere along the way. There are some things expensive safety gear doesn't protect you from, twisty trees can find a way to bite you, and hospital bills are pretty expensive.
There are a bunch of other things that can and probably will go wrong, those haven't even been discussed. They can get costly, but at least don't end with a trip to the hospital. (Usually.)
I'm not an expert, some of these guys are, and when it comes to cutting trees, "safety" isn't one of those things you ignore like in daily life, in this case ignoring stuff can get you killed pretty easy, which is why the pro tree guys use an abundance of caution. I'm not trying to get preachy, just saying there's a lot of stuff that can go wrong, much of it hurts.
I'd say it's probably best to let a pro tackle the risks. You're going to have to pay for their insurance premiums and equipment costs and such, but they earn it, and it's money well spent.
The tree is leaning, so the wood on the "tight" side wants to pop and can smack a person standing near it, which with a short bar would be you. It could potentially drive your ribs from the front of your chest to the back near your spine, flattening you pretty much instantly. The speed and force the tree has is unbelievable--until you see it.
The tree has a big split, so once the wood holding the tree up is cut the thin walls around the outside of the tree can crumple and blow out, throwing wood at you--kind of like throwing a solid wood stake at a vampire, but in this case it's you getting impaled and you're not in a movie.
Limbs above you are always a danger, they can break off and hundreds (or thousands) of pounds can mash you into the ground like a nail hit by a huge hammer. Imagine a bowling ball up there being dropped on you, and that's only 18 pounds or so--this is perhaps a thousand or more pounds per limb and huge.
The problem tree you're trying to address fell into another tree, so the risk is increased because when they separate one is likely ripping limbs off the other and launching them. They fly unpredictably, so it is pretty dangerous.
I do landscaping and can tell you from experience twisty trees are unpredictable, and I don't like them. Every time I study a tree and think I have all the forces figured out there's something unexpected somewhere along the way. There are some things expensive safety gear doesn't protect you from, twisty trees can find a way to bite you, and hospital bills are pretty expensive.
There are a bunch of other things that can and probably will go wrong, those haven't even been discussed. They can get costly, but at least don't end with a trip to the hospital. (Usually.)
I'm not an expert, some of these guys are, and when it comes to cutting trees, "safety" isn't one of those things you ignore like in daily life, in this case ignoring stuff can get you killed pretty easy, which is why the pro tree guys use an abundance of caution. I'm not trying to get preachy, just saying there's a lot of stuff that can go wrong, much of it hurts.
I'd say it's probably best to let a pro tackle the risks. You're going to have to pay for their insurance premiums and equipment costs and such, but they earn it, and it's money well spent.
I understood. Like I say, if it's unsuccessful in separating the tree, and there is a good chance it will be, the situation is now probably worse than it was.
WI_Hedgehog
You bought a WHAT???!!
That is a real risk, if the tree hangs up and doesn't come down--now what. Your neighbors, who have been watching the whole time--possibly waiting for that "train wreck moment," are going to say, "That's dangerous!!! My kids could...." and some Karen type is going to call city hall or whatever, and this is going all sorts of sideways without even worrying about the tree. Hey, you want to see that in action??? We got a guy who cut down a tree and the Internet rained brimstone and fire on his posterior because...well, for pretty much every reason you could imagine. And that guy knew what he was doing!!!
Exactly so. One of my concerns off the pictures is the location of the split on the backside, and the fact that it is opened up and spirals a bit up the trunk. There is definitely a lot of stored energy and pressure in that trunk, and it's impossible to predict how it will release. When it does, it will most likely be fast and explosive.
rswojo
New Member
Notch it and back cut it by the green ribbon until it settles into the trees that hold it up. Then walk away and wait for some windy weather.
Did anyone even ask what kind of tree it is??
I think the guy asking should get some experienced help!
I fully get that part.
But since I manage risk for a living, I understand there are things you can do to lessen it to the point of being doable. Every tree has risk, even the good ones. So you do things and you minimize it.
There are two knowns presented, the heavy lean and the already barber chair formation. So the tree only has one way to go. Barber chairs get people when it's surprised upon them, but we know this one. These are great things to know in this situation. Then add in the fact there are no structure around, this is totally doable for a competent man. Now the man has to have enough self awareness, and be truthful with his abilities.
Now, maybe I'm biased as my stihl pole trimmer can east some wood. It keeps you back and coupled with a good rope to aid in pulling, it's doable. The risks are known and easily managed.
Now if this is you're first time cutting a tree...call the jolly logger.
It may be your method and it may work for you but it is not viable or safe. A pole saw is for limbing, not for felling. jmho
OT
In that case, I would prefer a track hoe and a big one. lol jmho
OT
Too likely of a chance of chairing back at you and sending the butt through the cab.In that case, I would prefer a track hoe and a big one. lol jmho
Big hoe, lay the boom on it and push down through the tree it is hung up on.
Piece of cake. lmao
To add my 2 cents worth. With that much weakness already in the trunk, I think the other tree is the only thing holding it up. I think if you could get a stout rope up at least 20 feet above the ground, you could pull it down at right angles to the lean with no cutting. I would use a tractor or 4wd truck weighing at least 4 tons. A 3/4" rope or a winch rope should suffice. I would say at least 100 feet long. Alternatively, if there is another tree at right angles to it, you could use a snatch block so you could pull from the opposite side so the tree falls away from you. I did that recently to control the fall of a leaning black locust tree.
I prefer a griphoist, but to each their own.Big hoe, lay the boom on it and push down through the tree it is hung up on.
Piece of cake. lmao
Cottonwoods are brittle sketchy bastards.
Safest way?
Set a line in the tree that the leaner is laying in. There seems to be a decent crotch right above the top of the leaner. Decent for most trees, but Cottonwood being what it is, I'd like a second point of attachment even before I start cutting.
Set another line (from picture #2) in the large leader in the tree to the left. Now you have two points of attachment. Ascend the tree to the top. Whittle your way down with the your ms271. Hopefully it releases and all the pressure is not where the two trunks meet (but it usually is). Hopefully as you whittle down the leaner releases and slides down the tree it's hung up in. When it lets go you'll be above it, so you should be good.
So all you should need is a a good harness, (2) 200' length of climbing rope, ascenders or a good knowledge of friction hitches, and a half dozen other things I don't feel like typing out at this time. Should be a couple grand or so.
Can someone outside of a logging or arboricultural profession get this on the ground without getting killed? Sure. But it would be by luck and not by skillset.
Or you can pay a guy who has all this stuff and knows how to do it and sit back and watch the show while having a beer or a cup of coffee.
That would be the safest way...........
Where we live, there are 5 excavators (50,000-200,000 lb. and bigger, 22 -32' reach) within 10 minutes of our home. One is a good buddy. I'd probably arrange for him to stop by. He'd probably take a look and decide he could just use his big rubber-tired hoe with a 22' boom. That way, he could just drive the tractor up the road to me without having to anchor one of his excavators to a trailer. We do each other favours all the time. It would probably cost nothing. If I had to pay one of the other guys with an excavator in my area, it would probably cost $100 for him to stop at the end of a day when he was driving home from another job. 95% of the work would be getting the equipment on and off of a trailer.
This is another safe way if equipment can get to it.
If I couldn't get someone with a big hoe or excavator (like I spoke of in my comment above), I'd probably set my 36' ladder up on the tree beside it (with both someone stabilizing the ladder and also strapping that ladder to the good tree). Then I'd carefully climb and wrap a tow strap up high on the bad tree while staying out of the danger zone underneath. Then, I'd attach my 100' x 3/8" cable to the strap and on down through a snatch block hung at the base of far tree. Attach that cable to the cable on my 13,000 lb. truck winch. Then, I'd remove my ladder before attempting to pull the tree down down and off of the other tree. I say I would do this, but I would not suggest this to anyone else. Ladders and trees are not good friends. I work in the construction industry, and using a ladder in the way I said I would do it on my own property would not be condoned by OSHA nor CSA.
Safety first. Don't mess around with nature/physics. You know the boom a tree makes when it hits the ground. You know how it makes your heart pound harder because felling a tree is a dangerous/powerful thing. You are asking for help here, because you are smart, and you recognize that tree as a dangerous thing.
Safety first. Don't mess around with nature/physics. You know the boom a tree makes when it hits the ground. You know how it makes your heart pound harder because felling a tree is a dangerous/powerful thing. You are asking for help here, because you are smart, and you recognize that tree as a dangerous thing.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
OLD husqvarna rancher 50 not starting - seems to have spark, compression, fuel, timing?- Latest: Vintage Engine Repairs
-
-
