660 tuning "running" from canada to south texas

[diesel&coffee]

JUst how bad would you think a saw would run if was from canada and now in south texas?? Just wondering - I have just starting "missing" with saws so I have not really tuned any.. Infact THis will be the first... THe saw will run but does notttttttttttttt wish to idle at alll.. If your finger does not cont/ bump the throttle it dies.

I hope I did not get burned.. THe pull of the cord does not fell like it as as much comp. as my 361.. That thing has a little bit to it... MY saw has about 10 hrs on it.. I was told the 66o has about 10hrs.. I will do a compression check and post later... The saw looks good, clean, etc.. It's just I would have thought the cold starting of that saw would be way more intense over may 361.. I did pull the muffler - guess I can post picture later.. there is no scaring that I can see. The piston does have a little browning right below the rings - it kind of looks like it's uniform all the way around..

Also the pull cord - I think they shortened it little.. it sure seems a little shorter then my 361...

 

[wi50]

there's 3 screws to adjust on the carb

1st adjust the idle speed screw, turning it in will open the throttle plate and make it idle faster

2nd adjust the low speed fuel adjustment, rich/lean. As you richen it, the saw will idle slower and stumble, lean it untill it's runs faster and is crisp. Now set it roughly half way in between. When you grab the throttle the saw should rev and not stumble, it may be necessary to fine tune it a bit.

3rd go back and adjust the idle speed screw as it may now idle to fast, chain may run.

4th now you can adjust the high speed screw, hold it wide open and adjust, either well trained ears or a tach is needed. It's possiable to score the piston going to lean for to long. Just stay twards the rich side of the adjustment and then go twards lean. You'll want to hear a slight burble sound or what some call "4-strokeing". I alwayse richen them just a bit more to prevent problems or if it gets some weaker gas or a lesser mixture.

if you're not comfortable with it, just try the low speed adjustments and see what happens. It's pretty cheap insurance to have a saw tech adjust it or possiably a friend with some experiance.

 

[woodfarmer]

well being from canada, the saws probably on vacation, it may wake up in a week or two once it thaws.:greenchainsaw: but just think if you got it from mexico it wouldn't run at all, do as wi50 suggests

 

[diesel&coffee]

compression test in 150's.. but the dam compression kit needs to color the
14mm "long" plug adapter bright yellow or put a sticker on it that says read the instructions first... Only after putting the 14mm "long" plug adaptor in then read the instructions - it states the 14mm long adapter don't screw the adaptor all the way in "may damage piston" if the plug is not a deep one.. :jawdrop: wtf....

 

[clintb]

If youy don't take the adapter off and put it in against the o-ring it won't read right.

 

[diesel&coffee]

adjusted the low idle - starts right up now! On the high - I just did what the user guide stated - I turned it all the way in "counter clockwise". It was about 1/3 out.. Would it be best and safist to run it with the high all the way in or maybe just a touch of the screw until I can fine tune the high??

ps: your right I can't hear any diff right now on the high.. But then I am not running it that long and don't have the saw clamped down so I have better control of things...

 

[CentaurG2]

If the saw is giving you some trouble, just bring it into a dealer and have them check it out. I would never try to “adjust” a modern saw with a proper tachometer (especially one that is worth more than a grand). Just adjusting the L and H carb screws might not help if the carb limiters are still in place. Spend the 30 bucks and have your dealer look at the saw. Just my 2 cents..

 

[diesel&coffee]

the saw runs.. I just got it from canada and I am in texas.. It started and run fine.. just would not idle... a simple adjustment to the idle and now it rocks... I was just wondering about the high end.. the book it self states that in high altiude you have to lean the high out... I reset it all the way in.. "rich".. now the question is going from there.. I don't think it needs the dealer... afterall - they are the one that tell me the only chin to run on my saw is RSC chesil chain .. I ask for RM series chain they looked at me like i was from MARS... So no - I an't taken my saw there...

 

[blsnelling]

In or CW is lean, out or CCW is rich.

 

[K9-Handler]

In or CW is lean, out or CCW is rich.

Dang! Ya beat me to it, Brad.

 

[diesel&coffee]

In or CW is lean, out or CCW is rich.

was one of my questions..

insert: I have the saw with

h = 3/4
low = 1/4

660 guide page 45 states fine tuning for high altitude... turn high speed screw slightly clockwise (leaner).

standard settings page 44

low speed screw turn clockwise - then backout 1/4 turn
high speed screw turn counter clockwise as far as can..

no limiter caps..

 

[blsnelling]

Those setting are for a carb with the limiting caps. If you have not tuned a saw before, you need to have this saw tuned by the dealer or risk burning it up pronto. BTW, I'd start with both L and H bottomed out and the backed out about 1 1/8 turns. You will likely be rich there.

 

[CentaurG2]

the saw runs.. I just got it from canada and I am in texas.. It started and run fine.. just would not idle... a simple adjustment to the idle and now it rocks... I was just wondering about the high end.. the book it self states that in high altiude you have to lean the high out... I reset it all the way in.. "rich".. now the question is going from there.. I don't think it needs the dealer... afterall - they are the one that tell me the only chin to run on my saw is RSC chesil chain .. I ask for RM series chain they looked at me like i was from MARS... So no - I an't taken my saw there...

Let me get this straight. You have no tachometer, no clue as to what you are doing (other than a stihl manual) and you have chosen a $1000+ saw to learn on??


Dude…. That is just WAY COOL!!! ROCK ON COWBOY!!!

 

[diesel&coffee]

ok.. looks like the caps have been taken off then.. I will wait until I get my new dual port muffler before I take it in...

 

[diesel&coffee]

Let me get this straight. You have no tachometer, no clue as to what you are doing (other than a stihl manual) and you have chosen a $1000+ saw to learn on??


Dude…. That is just WAY COOL!!! ROCK ON COWBOY!!!

look all I did was adjust the low end like I was told and it fixed the problem.. Yes I do not know about the high end.. and no I was not going to go out and cut wood until I knew it was correct.. I was just doing a simple check on the low end to see if I "may" have got burned buying online.. as for not knowing what I am doing.. yoiu can kiss it. I asked questions before I was to check things out.. You do not know where I was going from there...

 

[CentaurG2]

Dude, don’t get all mad. I honestly think it is fantastic that you are willing to try and fix something yourself especially before hauling it to a dealer. Most guys I know would never start that saw as they would be too afraid to blow it up with the wrong mix. Like I said, I think it is great that there are still people in this country that are willing to work on their own stuff. I especially admire someone who is willing to wrench on an expensive saw. I was not trying to dump on you! Chill out and have a beer!

 

[diesel&coffee]

sorry about that.. no worries...

one question I have is WHY would stihl say when starting from scratch - start from standard settings - that being the high turned all the way in counter clockwaise???

why would they tell you to start from a lean condition?? If error was to be made would it not be better to error staring on the rich side??

 

[CentaurG2]

No harm, No foul.

Most of “The Stihl” (including most of their business practices) remain a mystery to me but, like you, I am always willing to learn. Education costs money but the best thing about this site is that you can get some inkling for nothing. Keep at it as we are all learning with you. Cheers and beer.

 

[blsnelling]

sorry about that.. no worries...

one question I have is WHY would stihl say when starting from scratch - start from standard settings - that being the high turned all the way in counter clockwaise???

why would they tell you to start from a lean condition?? If error was to be made would it not be better to error staring on the rich side??

That's because with the limiting caps on it the way it came from the factory, you would still not be turned all the way in.

 

[teacherman]

sorry about that.. no worries...

one question I have is WHY would stihl say when starting from scratch - start from standard settings - that being the high turned all the way in counter clockwaise???

why would they tell you to start from a lean condition?? If error was to be made would it not be better to error staring on the rich side??

They have you turn it all the way in so you can find the standard setting, which on an older saw without limit caps, is generally 1 turn out from the bottom. I don' know what it is on the new ones, but if it misses a bit or "Burbles" when you run it wide open without putting it in the wood (don't do this for a long time, just short intervals to check the setting), you are probably OK. Burbling out of the cut, smooth in the cut, is kind of what you want. CHocolate brown spark plug tip is good. Tach tune to 13,500 rpm WOT if you go that route. Good job adjusting the low side!