Advise: best chain for processor

[dewaldf.carstens]

Blockbuster 15-20 and 18-20.

The saws are hydraulic driven. The engine just drives 3 hydraulic pumps, one for the splitter, one for the conveyor and splitter knife height, one for the saw, trough and log deck.

Same here, but final drive to chain is toothed belt, assume to get speed increase.
Do you know anything about Cannon cutter bars? Tajfun do keep stock, and they recommend using this die to better wear resistance durability (3,5× longer), so why did they not put that on the machine when it was delivered in March this year? And they new we only cut Blue Gum.... silly if you ask me. Price is not too bad @ €113 ea, plus €60 freight.


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[CR888]

In my experience cutting gums in low rainfall areas, semi chisel is the only way to go. I'd try semi chisel chain on your setup & see how you go. Full chisel chain that your using just won't last. Also do you know how to adjust depth gauges/rakers?

 

[dewaldf.carstens]

In my experience cutting gums in low rainfall areas, semi chisel is the only way to go. I'd try semi chisel chain on your setup & see how you go. Full chisel chain that your using just won't last. Also do you know how to adjust depth gauges/rakers?

Depth rakers? Assume you refer to runner in front of cutter tooth? Any info welcome.

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[ChoppyChoppy]

Semi chisel for sure. Ive never used Cannon. I use Oregon, the harvester bars are around $80-90 and chains about $23 a loop.

 

[CR888]

filing rakers? Assume you refer to runner in front of cutter tooth? Any info welcome.

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Well as the the chain gets filed back the depth gauges need filing. New chains are factory set at .025"/.020". They need to come down progressively as the cutter is filed/ground back. If you don't file them the chain cannot bite the wood. A flat file is needed. Heat, bar wear, and no cutting will be the result if you don't maintain them correctly. You NEED!!! to read up on this subject before proceeding further. I think your setup could work well with a semi chisel chain and some knowledge on chain maintenence. Read up & good luck. Ultimately YOU need to learn this to successfully do what your doing. Your at the right place for help but I think we might be answering the wrong questions and presume your chain skills are good because your running a processor not a 40cc homeowner saw.

 

[dewaldf.carstens]

Well as the the chain gets filed back the depth gauges need filing. New chains are factory set at .025"/.020". They need to come down progressively as the cutter is filed/ground back. If you don't file them the chain cannot bite the wood. A flat file is needed. Heat, bar wear, and no cutting will be the result if you don't maintain them correctly. You NEED!!! to read up on this subject before proceeding further. I think your setup could work well with a semi chisel chain and some knowledge on chain maintenence. Read up & good luck. Ultimately YOU need to learn this to successfully do what your doing. Your at the right place for help but I think we might be answering the wrong questions and presume your chain skills are good because your running a processor not a 40cc homeowner saw.

Yes, I do check and file down if needed. I assumed you meant that, but you know what 'assume' did...

I am up to speed with the Maintenance bits, different chains, bars not so much, as here locally you get one of each, and that for the farmer.... this is not really a logging area, although there are loads of trees.

Farmers around here does not even know that a chain can be sharpener, they buy new when blunt ....they maybe use a saw once....only, till it does not start, then buy new... Maybe I should invest in proper disk sharpner and start a business......?

South Africa is 40 years behind in the firewood production business, so I have to import most up to date tech.

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[CentaurG2]

Don’t know too much about chainsaw processors. I am used to processor that run 5’ circular saws driven by 110hp turbo diesel. If the circular saw stops in the cut you got BIG problems. Back pressure will blow a hose or the hydraulic filters right off the rig.

On chainsaws, Cannon bars are harder and heavier than Oregon counterparts. I really don’t think the bar or chain is the issue. You appear to have a binding issue. Twist in the bar, bad bearing, lack o lube etc. If the rig is new, call your rep and have them take a look at your set up. They should be able to get to the bottom of it.

 

[dewaldf.carstens]

Don’t know too much about chainsaw processors. I am used to processor that run 5’ circular saws driven by 110hp turbo diesel. If the circular saw stops in the cut you got BIG problems. Back pressure will blow a hose or the hydraulic filters right off the rig.

On chainsaws, Cannon bars are harder and heavier than Oregon counterparts. I really don’t think the bar or chain is the issue. You appear to have a binding issue. Twist in the bar, bad bearing, lack o lube etc. If the rig is new, call your rep and have them take a look at your set up. They should be able to get to the bottom of it.

I have been in contact with supplier today, but all checks out. It does feel odd that when bar stops mid log, but chain keeps running. My first thoughts were oil pressure (that's normal) or bar cutting scew, I will get bars and chain done tomorrow.

Odds are really small that all 3 bars are twisted? A big tree twisted my chainsaw bar a while back, I can't even get it bent back. There is no way a bar is getting bent in the processor, can't think of any scenario that could happen.

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[CentaurG2]

I am not familiar with your processor at all. It just seems odd that it will work fine for several cuts and then stops. All I can think of is heat build up is warping something or causing something to bind on the processor. I am also not up my bar numbers but I think that bar will fit a large husky or dolmar powerhead. Mount the bar and chain on a chainsaw and give it a try in the same wood. Stand the wood up vertically and try to block off a 16” piece. If it cuts well and does not bind, it aint the bar or chain.

 

[Thommo]

I just had another look at the first picture of the chain you are using and it needs to be filed back quite a lot before it will cut properly again. The chrome is worn back quite a bit on the tip of the cutter and you need to file or grind it back until you have a good point again at the tip of the cutter. The chisel chain that you are using will never stay sharp for long in the type of wood that you are cutting. You need semi chisel chain. Another thing to check would be to make sure the chain is not making contact with any hydraulic hose or anything else that will take the edge off the chain. I have seen chains damaged pretty bad from just touching hydraulic hoses and cutting into the steel braid of the hose. The hose will still be ok but the chain will be a mess

 

[dewaldf.carstens]

I am not familiar with your processor at all. It just seems odd that it will work fine for several cuts and then stops. All I can think of is heat build up is warping something or causing something to bind on the processor. I am also not up my bar numbers but I think that bar will fit a large husky or dolmar powerhead. Mount the bar and chain on a chainsaw and give it a try in the same wood. Stand the wood up vertically and try to block off a 16” piece. If it cuts well and does not bind, it aint the bar or chain.

Thanks I will try this, as it fits on my Husky 272, that's where I fit the bars to sharpen the chain.

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[ChoppyChoppy]

IMO 3/8" chainsaw bars and chain aren't going to hold up well, plain and simple. They are just too light duty for the kind of pressure and power a processor puts into it.
It's basically equal to putting 1/4" chain on a Stihl 880 with 40" bar and expecting it to hold up.

I'm not sure why some of the smaller processors run it. Maybe because it's what people know? or it's easy to find? Not that harvester chain is uncommon though.

The .404 harvester makes even .404 chainsaw chain look light duty.

I would buy or fab a processor bar mount and put it on your machine. Might have to do a bit of cutting and welding, I dunno, I'd have to see how it's setup.

If you really want to stick with 3/8", just keep a few dozen bars and loops on hand cause you'll need them. The Mutitek I talked about with the 3/8" went through bars and chains in the wood we cut too. With the .404, it's a non-issue.
I got about 1000 hrs out of a bar and 4 loops of chain until they were just plain worn out.

I'd recommend buying a chain grinder and get setup to dress the bars. They make grinders just for it, but you could just a sanding disk on a table saw even.

I normally keep 3 or 4 loops in rotation and when I happen to be sharpening customer chains I'll just do whatever dull ones I have as well (both saw and processor

 

[dewaldf.carstens]

Just an update: I took my 3 chains and 3 Oregon bars to a Stihl shop so they could check them out and professionally sharpen them.
On first inspection, angles on bars were 100% and they had more than 50% life left.
Bars were all in very good condition, also substantial life left.
So they were machine sharpened.
I collected them this afternoon and put a newly sharpened chain and new new dressed bar on; guess what- still the same problem....
The videos were sent to Tajfun HO, so let's see what they come up with. I am sure now that it is not the bars and chains....

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[dewaldf.carstens]

This is video of what happens....

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/591c8203035c9/20170517_163345.mp4


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[Thommo]

It looks like some sort of hydraulic problem. If you can pull the saw down by hand without any binding or tight spots then it will have to be either low hydraulic pressure to the saw cylinder or a buildup of back pressure on the return side of the saw cylinder. It could also be that the piston has unscrewed from the rod of the saw cylinder. Unbolt the rod end of the cylinder and see if you can pull the rod out completely

 

[dewaldf.carstens]

It looks like some sort of hydraulic problem. If you can pull the saw down by hand without any binding or tight spots then it will have to be either low hydraulic pressure to the saw cylinder or a buildup of back pressure on the return side of the saw cylinder. It could also be that the piston has unscrewed from the rod of the saw cylinder. Unbolt the rod end of the cylinder and see if you can pull the rod out completely

Thommo,

Hydraulics is fine 35kPa, no back pressure, single line cylinder. Tajfun is convinced that it is the sawbar, that they are sending Cannon bar and 2x new chains, free of charge.... should be here Tuesday. Hopefully will know then.

Do you strip bark on Blue Gum, or what do you do with borers? I need some more equipment to get production up, when I have money. With the least amount of labour.
Valtra tractor with front loader and crane would be 100%, but then cost is going to be a whack.

I have to produce 2-3 per week of these....

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[Bwildered]

This is video of what happens....

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/591c8203035c9/20170517_163345.mp4


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If that's a chisel chain its terribly blunt, there are no points on the teeth, if one side of worse than the other the chain will cut to one side, the chain will lay over & this will eventually wear the bar rail groove, the bar & chain will cut only a certain amount before it will bind in the cut & no amount of force will get it to cut any further.
Thansk

 

[dewaldf.carstens]

If that's a chisel chain its terribly blunt, there are no points on the teeth, if one side of worse than the other the chain will cut to one side, the chain will lay over & this will eventually wear the bar rail groove, the bar & chain will cut only a certain amount before it will bind in the cut & no amount of force will get it to cut any further.
Thansk

Just sharpened by Stihl dealers technician.

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[Thommo]

All the bluegum over here is cut down with a single grip harvester and the bark is stripped off as it is pulled through the harvester. They are very slippery to handle after the bark is stripped off. Our bluegums are planted in plantations covering thousands of hectares so they grow a lot straighter and have less limbs than the ones you are cutting down. Stripping the bark off does make it easier to cut but the cost of running a debarker might not work for you

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Thommo,

Hydraulics is fine 35kPa, no back pressure, single line cylinder. Tajfun is convinced that it is the sawbar, that they are sending Cannon bar and 2x new chains, free of charge.... should be here Tuesday. Hopefully will know then.

Do you strip bark on Blue Gum, or what do you do with borers? I need some more equipment to get production up, when I have money. With the least amount of labour.
Valtra tractor with front loader and crane would be 100%, but then cost is going to be a whack.

I have to produce 2-3 per week of these....

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That's alot of wood per week for a small processor!