What does the 10 deg. adjustment for chisel do? I took my vise apart, as I was having some consistency issues, & was under the impression that the vice would tilt when adjusting for chisel chain. It doesn't tilt, it just moves the vice back & forth. I cant seem to get my head around what that would accomplish.
After all these years I finally got a grinder
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The vises on some grinders tilt. Some don't. A few have other ways to compensate for tilt (check the owner's manual for your grinder).
The idea of the 10° tilt (a.k.a. 'down angle') is to make a compound bevel in the top plate cutting edge. Some Oregon reps have posted here on AS that this 10° down angle makes a measurable difference in cutting performance, on some chains. Several members have posted that they do not notice the difference, or do not feel that the difference warrants the additional effort.
I will grind with the tilt if the owner of the chain wants it (511A grinder).
Philbert
The idea of the 10° tilt (a.k.a. 'down angle') is to make a compound bevel in the top plate cutting edge. Some Oregon reps have posted here on AS that this 10° down angle makes a measurable difference in cutting performance, on some chains. Several members have posted that they do not notice the difference, or do not feel that the difference warrants the additional effort.
I will grind with the tilt if the owner of the chain wants it (511A grinder).
Philbert
I have the new Oregon w/hydro vice. It has the down angle adjustment. I just don't understand how it's supposed to put a compound bevel in the top plate. I expected to find some ramps under the vice that would tilt the vice up when you slide the vice back & forth. There's no ramps, the deck under the vice is flat. The only thing I can see that changes is the contact point on the grinding wheel is moved off center when you move the vice, but I don't see how that will change any of the angles.
I have not used that grinder, but have looked through the manual, and understand what you are saying. I assumed that by grinding 'off center' from the center of pivot (hard to describe) the wheel will grind 'deeper' toward the outside of the top plate (far right on left cutter, and far left of right cutter), and 'shallower' toward the point. Does this make sense?
Maybe you can grind a few sample cutters each way and see if it makes a visible difference under a magnifying glass?
Philbert
Yes, that makes sense, but I don't think it changes anything on the top plate. I'm thinking it creates a steeper angle & slightly different radius on the side plate. By steeper angle, I don't mean up & down, I mean steeper as in sharper, like holding a file at 35 deg vs 30 but not changing the top plate angle.
That's where the real payoff is--sharpening so-called worn out chains. I've saved dozens from the sawyer "landfill" that still had five or six more sharpening occasions left in them. Some guys never drop the rakers. So, when the chain starts throwing powder after a sharpening attempt, they discard it. That's when I take over.
Sometimes I make up a new chain loop from a bulk reel, but only because I forgot what it was like to saw with a new one--kind of like treating yourself to a thick steak at Ruth Chris.
super3
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I have both Oregon and a Silvey round grinders. I use 57 & 25 for oak & locust. 54 & 30 for cherry and other softer woods on the Oregon.
The silvey is well below 60° at the factory marking and there is a noticeable difference in a chain done one one or the other.
If you are happy with 60, I'm OK with that.
Ok, I sharpened both ways. With the grinder vise set at the 10 deg chisel setting, the side plate has a much sharper/finer edge than set @ 0. The top plate appears to be unchanged. I then set the vise to 15 deg. & got an even sharper side plate. Top plate still appeared to be unchanged. I didn't need a magnifying glass to see the difference although I used one anyway just to inspect closer. The grinder wheel did get into the tie straps a little at the 10 deg setting & a little more at 15, but not bad. The 10 & 15 deg settings also appear to have less hook, but that may be due to a different depth as I had to readjust when & changed the degrees. I then put a 7/32 file in each tooth to check fit. The setting at 15 fit the best but that may also be due to the depth setting. This 15 deg setting might just work very well as you get a sharper side plate without having such a steep top plate. I don't think you can achieve this with a round file. Keep in mind, this is just my theory, I'm not an expert.
I'll give that a shot. I don't remember what I have it set on now.
The chains I was talking about have the cutters just about gone and the rakers are down too...they're worn out chains. The only thing these are good for is practice but I might put them on a saw just to find out if they'll actually cut wood.That's where the real payoff is--sharpening so-called worn out chains. I've saved dozens from the sawyer "landfill" that still had five or six more sharpening occasions left in them. Some guys never drop the rakers. So, when the chain starts throwing powder after a sharpening attempt, they discard it. That's when I take over.
Sometimes I make up a new chain loop from a bulk reel, but only because I forgot what it was like to saw with a new one--kind of like treating yourself to a thick steak at Ruth Chris.
Moparmyway
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Did you ever wire your 511a to spin both ways ?
I would like to do this. I read your thread as well as another, both were over my head. You should put some pre-assembled, easy to install kits together. I'd buy one.
Moparmyway
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Send me yours, I will do the conversion and send it back
If you look at the chain cutters head-on across the top plates, you can see the 10 degree tilt between left and right cutters if it is present.
Most chisel chains have the 10 degrees.
Round corner chains are straight across the top when looking at lefts & rights from the front.
Most chisel chains have the 10 degrees.
Round corner chains are straight across the top when looking at lefts & rights from the front.
I have a Silvey swing arm square grinder that runs both ways. I love and use the bidirectional feature.
But after a great deal of thought and looking at the finished chains, I eventually decided to not convert my Oregon 511A to run both ways.
The decision was not exactly a safety feature for I can sit over to the side and be out of the way of the sparks.
I'm just lazy I guess? Thought that there was little gain for the effort?
But after a great deal of thought and looking at the finished chains, I eventually decided to not convert my Oregon 511A to run both ways.
The decision was not exactly a safety feature for I can sit over to the side and be out of the way of the sparks.
I'm just lazy I guess? Thought that there was little gain for the effort?
No. Don't want sparks or broken wheels coming at me. Plus, my chains cut good enough with the one way rotation.
Philbert
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