Another ebay saw won't run

[catamount]

Hi, All - new to the forum, but been lurking here a while. Bought an 032AV off ebay. Seller claimed carb was rebuilt at a Stihl shop but still ran rough. Claimed shop told him it needed points. I didn't think this saw had points (based on info I found here) and it doesn't appear to (no access holes in flywheel). Got it to start after dozens of pulls and a liberal shot of starting fluid in carb. It will idle at a very fast idle, but adjusting the idle down doesn't do much other than kill it. It bogs and dies when I try to rev it and adjusting the high speed screw hasn't helped. I took the saw apart and found that the fuel filter looks brand-new, the fuel line is in good shape, as is the impulse tube and the carb boot. The carb is very clean-looking and has shiny new black plastic parts on it, so it appears that something was done to it. Compression is okay based on picking it up by the starter rope, and obviously it has spark and plug looks new. The piston looks good as seen through the exhaust port, but the port itself and inside the muffler have hard, black carbon deposits in them (but not built up to the point of blocking anything off). There is also carbon around the spark plug hole and the plug gets fouled with oily, black deposits (almost like creosote). I haven't touched the carb yet. Should I take it apart and clean it or what else am I missing? Thanks in advance. -Rob

 

[Marco]

Had one like that in last winter, ended up being the cylinder. This one had a cracked intake boot, I replaced it and it acted similar to yours. Between running lean and ingesting some dust it cooked the cylinder. Maybe somebody got just far enough with it to figure out something was seriously wrong with it. If it runs at all I wouldn't think it's the points.

 

[lostone]

Check the seals and look around for an air leak ( intake boot, pulse line etc.) I had an 028 that would run if you cranked in the idle but if you slowed it down it didn't want to run, it had bad seals as well as a bad intake boot on it.

 

[Fish]

It could have points or a trigger unit. After looking at the boot and impulse line, I would look at the coil, and see if there is a wire going under the flywheel. Not having the access plugs does not mean there are not points.
Hard to start, and lots of soot in the muffler indicate to me an ignition problem.

 

[Stihldoc]

Hmmm..... hard to start & won't idle? Lots of new carburetor parts then sold because it still didn't run correctly? Cylinder looks OK thru exhaust port? I'd pressure & vacuum test the crankcase for an air leak. Could be a bad crankshaft seal or jug gasket, but could be something as simple as the pulse hose to the carburetor. Unfortunately, doing the correct tests is time consuming- often takes longer than the repair(s) they indicate. The 032 is a good old saw and worth the effort to repair correctly. Crankcase integrity (no air leaks) is the life blood of any 2 cycle motor. These tests will not eliminate the possibility of a damaged cylinder but will often save you lots of messing around GUESSING what the problem could be. There are lots of knowledgeable techs on this board and many (even smarter) users. Many of us have the special tools nescessary to test crankcase integrity- we have them because we understand that it is possibly the most important aspect to the correct performance of this saw.

 

[Dadatwins]

Sounds like an air leak, either around piston base or crankseals. Someone on this board gave me a trick to finding it if you don't have pressure equipment, when the saw is running spray some carb cleaner at the seals and listen for change in sound. If its an air leak the saw will either die down or stall out. If you find a bad seal change them both and the bearings while you have it apart. Also caution on starting fluid, it does not have 2 cycle oil lubricant and can quickly destroy a 2 cycle engine. Some gas mix in a squirt can works just as well. Good luck.

 

[16:1mix]

. Also caution on starting fluid, it does not have 2 cycle oil lubricant and can quickly destroy a 2 cycle engine. Some gas mix in a squirt can works just as well. Good luck.

Agree about the starting fluid. I have also had 2 cycle engines ruinning briefly on the spray stream from a WD-40 can.....at least you get a little lubricity!

 

[kf_tree]

depending on the wording of the ad and the condition of the saw you can either send it back or file a fraud claim with ebay or paypal. i had 2 different flat out lieing sellers and both times i got back 175.00 from ebay. from then on i will not buy a used saw on ebay, unless i'ts just for parts.

 

[Lakeside53]

Sounds like an air leak, either around piston base or crankseals. Someone on this board gave me a trick to finding it if you don't have pressure equipment, when the saw is running spray some carb cleaner at the seals and listen for change in sound. If its an air leak the saw will either die down or stall out. If you find a bad seal change them both and the bearings while you have it apart. Also caution on starting fluid, it does not have 2 cycle oil lubricant and can quickly destroy a 2 cycle engine. Some gas mix in a squirt can works just as well. Good luck.

Maybe you don't mean it this way (I know you know your way around a saw), but seals are a minor change effort (just pop off the flywheel and clutch), and bearing are major. Seals don't require the motor to be taken apart, but bearings sure do.

I fix a lot of 031/032s. Almost aways fuel system (bad filter, fuel line, carb) and occasionally ignition. Rarely seals or major motor issues. If it has points and is misbehaving, the capacitor is probably shot. These are a pain to change and it's actually easier an cheaper to convert to electronic. If it is electronic, it's likely a bad module (mounts just below the coil).


BTW, If it does have points, don't go squirting gas or starting fluid around the flywheel : you'll have a charred saw real quick, and maybe yourself...

 

[Fish]

I used to use starting fluid, until I blew up a Ryobi trimmer. Blew like a small grenade.

What is worse, I enjoyed it.
The spray method of finding airleaks is quick and easy.

I assume what you mean by new plastic parts, you mean the plastic metering diaphragm cover? That means someone threw some money at it. But go through
the carb again, if you know how.

 

[Marco]

Seals $25, intake boot $20, misc. parts, trouble and effort $? Throwing it in a concrete form and covering it, priceless This saw is at the point that everything you come to is suspect and should be replaced. Stihl is not real reasonable with parts for these old girls, I found out last winter and my dealer gives me a break on parts. But you will learn something, don't buy saws that you can't hear run. A couple of years ago it wasn't so bad fixing something like this up when Winderosa was making gasket kits for saws that had seals included for what you'd pay for just one seal at a Stihl dealer. Stihl must be fixed at all costs, anything else with a fouled plug is suppose to be tossed

 

[Dadatwins]

Maybe you don't mean it this way (I know you know your way around a saw), but seals are a minor change effort (just pop off the flywheel and clutch), and bearing are major. Seals don't require the motor to be taken apart, but bearings sure do.

You are right, I should have been more specific on the advice, thanks for clearing it up.

 

[catamount]

many thanks

Thanks everybody for the info. I'm not much of a wrench, but I'll keep digging and see if I can figure it out. BTW, I knew what I was getting into when I bought it - I was either getting a good deal on an easy fix or an expensive parts saw - time will tell. Rob

 

[stihltech]

no idle

OK, If the plug is black, I am guessing spark or fuel. What does the tag say?
If only 032AV, then it has points, the electronic model will say so. The only sure way is to pull the flywheel.
HOWEVER, you have a tillotson carburetor. Failure rate is double a walbro. If you have any way to pressure test the carburetor, do it first. It will be leaking through. Then you must decide to rebuild it. It MUST be SOAKED in carburetor cleaner, not just sprayed. Look for the common problem, the inlet lever binds on the axle, or the spring is weak. Oh yeah, check the inlet lever height.

Let us know if we can help.

 

[Lakeside53]

Seals $25, intake boot $20, misc. parts, trouble and effort $? Throwing it in a concrete form and covering it, priceless This saw is at the point that everything you come to is suspect and should be replaced. Stihl is not real reasonable with parts for these old girls, I found out last winter and my dealer gives me a break on parts. But you will learn something, don't buy saws that you can't hear run. A couple of years ago it wasn't so bad fixing something like this up when Winderosa was making gasket kits for saws that had seals included for what you'd pay for just one seal at a Stihl dealer. Stihl must be fixed at all costs, anything else with a fouled plug is suppose to be tossed

Here's a tip for Stihl parts buyers... To get the seals CHEAPER, buy the "set of gaskets" for the saw. Comes with the 2 seals, is a lot cheaper than buying two seals, and you get all the other gaskets also. Typical part number, say for an 026, would be 1121 007 1051. For an 036, 1125 007 1051. Most Stihl dealers don't know this... Complete set for an O26 is only about $13 list.