Any side by side testing for "throw away" saws?

[weimedog]

Any documented test done on the saws in the 40-45cc class??? I hear about the Poulan "Throw Away" saws and how terrible they are on these on line bulletin Boards constantly..but when I talk to locals who have them they LOVE the price/performance ratio offered by the 40-42cc class Poulans..and most have either a 42cc itterations sold by Craftsman or those "Wild Thing" 40cc Poulans..$150 dollar specials.

I was curious in this way three or so years ago and picked a "New in the Box" Homelite 33cc Ranger from eBay for $60 bucks plus shipping...wore out a bunch of chains. Eventually gutted the muffler, changes the chain to a real chain instead of that saftey chain, and got rid of the adjustment "limiters" on the carb and jetted it to match the muffler mods..perked it up quite a bit. I might have $150 total when you add the used up chains, shipping, and the initial cost. Its still running with no issues. It actually gets used a lot around here. So far its proven to be rugged little lump of plastic! To listen to the pundits here it should have come apart two years ago!

SO any one actually test these "Low End" 40-45cc class Solos's, Husky's, Stihl's, RedMax, Echo's, etc to see if the "you get what you pay for" axiom if in fact true? What fails and and how far into the life cycle are their failures common to the Poulans that don't happen with other brand saws? So far my feed back and instinct is those little Poulan's are a good thing for the typical casual firewood user...I'm tempted to pick on online and see...looks like they can be had for under $100 bucks...are they really as bad as many would lead you to believe?

Just curious.

 

[eyolf]

Several years ago there was a poster that referred to neighbor with firewood sideline that used throwaway saws exclusively. He used them until they quit, and got another one. Usually had an extra saw right on the truck.

His reasoning? He could get one on a moment's notice, even kept a spare saw handy. He was in one of those areas that the dealers had mostly given up on as unprofitable.

Think about it: if you're cutting 12" -16" wood as a max, a 16" bar on 40cc saw will get you by, even do pretty well until the wood freezes up. A homeowner saw is good for maybe 20 hrs of sporadic use, usually biting the dust when it wont start on old gas. They'll last up to 75 hrs with reasonable care, and how many cords is that?

I'd say that would equal 50 cords at a minimum, making the tool costs for that cord less than $2.00 (chains, gas, oil, etc. will be the same) Now your pro saw will last for 400 cords but you're probably going to rebuild at least once, add carb kits, fix the oiler, etc., and what happens when you lose the saw, run over it, etc.?

Most of us have a yen for top-quality tools, hence the endless arguments over Stihl vs Husky vs everyone else. But from a strictly economic viewpoint there isn't enough difference to matter. Profit margin of an extra buck a cord can get used up fast if you don't have easy, quick access to a pro saw ( and parts) at anything less than suggested list + shipping + wait.

No, I won't do it. But there's no reason other than personal pref not to.

 

[pgg]

Low end chainsaws aren't peppy and powerful enough by comparison to stihls huskys etc.. 50 cords of wood with a remington, chin chang, echo or whatever - thanks but no thanks.

 

[TreeBot]

There is an added longevity benefit of using the higher quality saws which is much more important than anything to do with rings or pistons: your ligaments and joints will last longer due to the light weight and better vibration reduction. Sure, the throw away saws are cheap and easy to find, but when your body wears out $150 isn't going to go very far towards fixing it. And depending on how you use it, some or all of the added expense can be made up in added productivity. You will get more done with the same effort with a lighter, more powerful saw.

 

[SawTroll]

I used a Partner 351 (Poulan 2150) alongside the 621 for 3 years, before the Partner more or less said good-bye - but it had been submitted to a lot more than "home-owner" saws usually do....

I have no problems with how it performed, and it still runs - but I haven't cared to find out how good, after the dealer (box store, with what they called a saw tech, who couldn't get it running at all) declared it dead.

Setting the H and L one turn out made it run, but then I put it aside, as I just had got the 353 Husky.

 

[16:1mix]

Most consumers have no idea of what a pro grade chainsaw is or what it costs, they purchase on cost only. Such was the case when I got my 42cc / 18" Wildthing from that fancy lumberyard that you are promised to, "Save Big Money " at. The first WT I got ran fine but it would not idle. It went back as defective and the replacement did the same thing. Pi$$ed, but undaunted I finished cutting up the three 14" walnut trees in my yard and later discovered that it was a simple matter to bust off those stupid limiters on the carburetor mixture adjustment screws. After setting the mixture the saw has started and ran fine ever since. That is not to say that the WT is flawless, as it has an intrepid tendency to eliminate the contents of the bar oil tank onto the shop floor while in storage an vibrates as bad or worse than the Harley Davidson I had.

Now that I have had this experience and spent time in this place I know that there are better saws and better long term values to be had. Having said that the WT served it's purpose, owes me nothing and now serves as a 'beater' for flush cutting stumps down to ground level and other nasty applications that will help keep my 350 in pristine condition for ages to come.

Would I recommend a WT to a potential saw buyer?
It depends.
For a one time job?
Maybe.
For long term, sustained use as in wood cutting for heat?
Proly not.

FWIW...these POS saws have their market niche and seem to serve it well. :chainsawguy:

 

[stihlaficionado]

My first use of a saw was with a small poulan in 1981. It lasted a lot longer then poulans I purchased in the early 90's. Some of those saws were just junk...leaked oil, starter coil jammed, stripped threads etc. If I had to do over again I would have thrown in a few more $$ and bought a mid-level husky or stihl. I bought the husky 55R in 2001 for $289.00 and the poulan 3500
in 1998 for $300.00: The husky 55R will run circles around the poulan.

 

[dan365husky]

them cheap saws just dont cut it for me

just thought i put my 2 bits in i like to sell and buy on ebay and have sold somewhere bewteen 40 to 50 saws. you name it and i may have played with it as far as saws go. sure the cheap saws run good when running but for me none of them had what i wanted more power more torque and now i have that with a 365 husqvarna 257 hus 353 hus and 020t stihl the 365 special is just amazing to run wow for power and torque also bought the 3 husqvarna off ebay and purchased the stihl for under 40 at auction just not shure why it wants to flood out idling warm. failed to mention i have since invested almost a 100 dollars into the stihl. great little with awsome power saw.:chainsawguy: :newbie:

 

[Wood Junkie]

I've owned and used the $100-$150 dollar pooley specials.....p.o.s....would never recommend them for actual wood cutting. If someone needed a cheap saw for wood........would still recommend a 180,or 340. Not much more cash and getting much more saw,not to mention the resale. I would consider one for cuttin' holes in the ice.........and if it doesn't work good...fish bait

 

[Knotdodger]

I have had alot of poulans and homlite's. Was fine with them until I ran my friends Stihl.

Now I dont have to take 2 or 3 saws with me to cut a load of firewood.

 

[AngelofDarkness]

Here's what I think, whatever that may be worth.

The newer Macs that are made by MTD are just plain junk, there is nothing good about them.

Two of my neighbors have el cheapo Poulans, they both start hard and have a nasty tendacy to throw chains, I think the chain tensioning system on those Poulans is pure crap, I cut with a neighbor for about 45 min. yesterday and in that time his chain came off twice and was loose and flopping by the end, and he spent half that time on his phone! The chain on my Husky 55 was a bit loose at the end, but it was a tad loose when I started too. The 55 cut circles around the WT.

With that said, not all Poulans are created equal, the Poulan PRO saws are a bit better made, theres a 46cc PRO with a 20" bar that doesent cut too bad, an 18" would be more suitable for it though but the 20" looks cooler sitting there in the store. But it's about $200 and I can get a pretty good used saw that size for for $200

Homelite is now made by Ryobi, who doesen't make that bad of stuff despite what some have said about them. My stepdad has a Ranger and has cut with it all day with no problems. If I had to choose between cheapie saws I would go with either the Homelite or the biggest Poulan PRO, but I would do better picking up a used XL-12 off Ebay for a backup.

and thats my HUGE opinion!

 

[2000ssm6]

Like most other things in this world a saw is no different. You get what you pay for. Wanna cut a few trees with the pull on? Go ahead, buy you one, or 2. Use a Stihl/pro Husky/Dolmar and throw the junker away......

 

[RED-85-Z51]

T othe guy up top that said "75 hours for an Echo"....That is 100% incorrect. ALL the engines used by ECHO in their power products are rated at 300hrs emmission compliance, which means that after 300 hours of use, the engines are still functioning properly and efficient. NO OTHER MANUFACTURER CAN SAY THIS.

I got a Wild Thing, When I got it, I plucked off the limiter caps, and tuned it rich, and broke it in for a few tanks of gas, then leaned out with a TACH for power. Ive done a substantial amount of cutting with it, so far it hasnt thrown the chain. Idles well too.

Yes they do tend to make a mess on the floor...thankfully mine came with a case, so no mess on the floor for me.

The saws vibrate pretty bad, and extended use without gloves leaves your hands tingling, but no worse than the big saws of years ago, just this saw is much MUCH lighter.

After probably 20 tanks, I pulled the muffler off, and pulled the jug. I used a file to raise the Exh. port ever so slightly. Also did a descreen, and ported the muffler. It revs faster, and seems to not bog in the cut, and makes great power.

Why support these saws???....why not? As Ive said before, they last if you take care of em.

 

[Brushwacker]

I never bought them thing s either. Used a few here and there and know people who like the cheap Poulans too. ( I think they'd be ok for some limbing and brushwork as a sidekick to a good bucking saw).Do they have a warrany like the name brands ? If so that may make it a worthwhile purchase. If you buy something like the ms180 I think it would last longer and be more serviceable, then when you were done with it you can sell it on ebay and get a good chunk of your original investment back . At that the 180 probably would cost less to own in the long run in many or most cases.

 

[Lignum]

When I was pricing Echos at the local Home Dumpo, all their saws had a tag that noted that the engines were designed for 50 hours of use. And if most people look at their saws,(if they are newer), there is an Epa compliance tag that notes what category the saw is in.

A=300 hours
B=125 hours
C=50 hours

Emissions is fine and dandy, but even crap saws or tools have a crap end of their spectrum, and a good end. I had a Homelite that I couldn't kill, and served it's purpose beautifully.

You don't need a Snap-on, or Matco Ratchet to keep in you junk drawer of your home for the odds and end nuts and bolts that need tightening up once in a while.

 

[Sprig]

Alot of valid points in above posts^^ My biggest concern would be the high frequency vibration with frequent use, whitefinger is no laughing matter, and its not fun for those with arthritis either.
My 0.02$ Boxing Day opine.



Serge

 

[WPanhandler]

While l have not done a side by side comparison of the above mentioned saws. Memory does serve me fairly well. I have a poulan 2300 cva which I must admitt will not die no matter what I do to it. I owned a place that had an outside basement that flooded, the saw was on the floor about 10 days later the water went down and the saw was thrown in the shed. about 4 years later I had to move. I out of curiosity dumped a bit of left over mix in it and pulled about 5-7 times and the stupid thing runs as well as it did new. I have cut through a 36 inch red oak with the 18" bar that it came with. I could split the rounds by hand as fast or faster than the saw would cut them. Yes the chain was sharp. I hand filed in those days because I was to poor to purchase a new file but was to cold not to. I have cut wood for several winters with this saw.
now I have a 441 and I cut more wood much much much faster and I also get more wood cut per gallon of gasoline than the old poulan.

 

[aandabooks]

I've got a Craftsman 35082 and a Poulan 2775. 18" & 16" bars respectively. I've been cutting with these saws for the last 3 years and they start and run everytime. Not fast, especially with the safety chain. Now I'm in the market for something better, ms390, 359, 5100 are all on the list and near the price range I have in mind. I recently made a couple cuts with buddies new ms310, widely regarded here at AS as a not worthy saw, but far faster than anything I've been running.

All that being said, my two saws will still get used and taken to cut wood even when a bigger/better saw comes along. They are too reliable to just leave sitting on the shelf.

Matt

 

[16:1mix]

You don't need a Snap-on, or Matco Ratchet to keep in you junk drawer of your home for the odds and end nuts and bolts that need tightening up once in a while.

Heck no!
My good tools stay where they belong, in the toolbox!

 

[RED-85-Z51]

When I was pricing Echos at the local Home Dumpo, all their saws had a tag that noted that the engines were designed for 50 hours of use. And if most people look at their saws,(if they are newer), there is an Epa compliance tag that notes what category the saw is in.

A=300 hours
B=125 hours
C=50 hours

Emissions is fine and dandy, but even crap saws or tools have a crap end of their spectrum, and a good end. I had a Homelite that I couldn't kill, and served it's purpose beautifully.

You don't need a Snap-on, or Matco Ratchet to keep in you junk drawer of your home for the odds and end nuts and bolts that need tightening up once in a while.

I work for a Devoted Echo Dealer..ALL ECHO POWER PRODUCTS ARE RATED AT 300 HOURS EMMISSION COMPLIANCE. From the Trimmers, to the blowers, Saws, Demo saws, hedge trimmers...all are extended life engines, and even after 300 hours of use, (with proper care) are still going to be within Emissions compliance, meaning they are still going to be efficient.

In other words, Echo doesnt make a disposable product. They dont make a peice of equipment that has a shoddy engine, or a so so design, to bring the price down to home-owner levels.

Echo doesnt make different quality Tiers of equipment, it's all professional grade.