Anybody have some closeup pics of a band roller?

[TraditionalTool]

I've exchanged a few messages with one of the members here and we think we can design our own band roller, since to the Cook's Band Roller.

I wasn't sure if someone with the Cook's Band Roller would mind taking some closeup pics for us to study and discuss???

I know several XLNT machinists in my area, and I have my own Nichols Horizontal Mill, along with an old South Bend 9A metal lathe, so think I can fabricate something up.

I can't imagine these working too much different than a metal roller, which I have used to curve sections of sheet metal in the past, or even a tire machine for you old hats, which is used to make the metal tire that wraps around wagon wheels. One difference I would see between the Cook's Band Roller and a metal roller is that you would need to control the depth in which the band can be inserted into the rollers, so that one doesn't roll the teeth.

I know a blacksmith that has a metal roller which I have used in the past, and I will try to get over there so I can look at how the wheels work to account for size of material and curvature which it applies to the steel as it is rolled through. This image from the Cooks site doesn't show the rolling mechanism at all...BTW, rolling bandsaw blades is not something Cook's came up with, it has been used on larger/wider bandsaw blades for some time, Cook's only borrowed the idea and adapted it to smaller bandsaw blades, IMO, so if you have another type of band roller, feel free to post pics of it!

 

[deeker]

While I know their roller works. It is extremely high priced. And I want one.

But don't, and won't pay the asking price. I have thought of buying one, with a few other people. Then sharpening all of their blades.

Kevin

 

[TraditionalTool]

While I know their roller works. It is extremely high priced. And I want one.

But don't, and won't pay the asking price. I have thought of buying one, with a few other people. Then sharpening all of their blades.

Kevin

Kevin,

I really can't afford to spend that type of money either, but I am pretty sure that will help saw blades, as I pointed out, this is not something that is new.

This ring roller from Harbor Freight might be a good place to start though, and fabricate some rollers for it on the lathe.

(linky pic to Harbor Freight website)

 

[redprospector]

Alan,
I've got one, but I haven't used it lately since I haven't ran my mill for a while. Right now I'm "babysitting" my wife while she recovers from surgery, and we've had quite a bit of snow so I'll have to dig my way into the shed.
It may be a little while, but I'll share pic's.
If anyone else has one feel free to share pic's before me.

Andy

 

[TraditionalTool]

Alan,
I've got one, but I haven't used it lately since I haven't ran my mill for a while. Right now I'm "babysitting" my wife while she recovers from surgery, and we've had quite a bit of snow so I'll have to dig my way into the shed.
It may be a little while, but I'll share pic's.
If anyone else has one feel free to share pic's before me.

Andy

Andy,

Sorry to hear about your wife, so many me and my wife know that are either going through surgery, or worse...some close friends of ours just lost their 12 year old daughter to cancer after a 2 year battle (I honestly can't think of a more horrific thing for parents to go through...made me appreciate my 14 year old daughter, I just grabbed her and hugged her)..another close friend went in for breast cancer and things looked good, but the doctor changed his mind and wants her to go in for chemo...hopefully it will work out...health is so important for all of us...

When you get a chance I would love to see some pics and understand how it works, how it adjusts, how many rollers it uses, etc...I don't know if I would fabricate something from scratch or not, more likely would be to retrofit something like the ring roller I pictured from Harbor Freight. If that could be done, it might be possible to fabricate and sell the components at a reasonable price so that they could be offered to people that were interested in purchasing the Harbor Freight roller and adapt the needed components to it.

I have access to some much heavier equipment than I have, I'm sure this can be done with a little bit of time and ingenuity.

Please do post pics, as your time/situation permits. Best to your wife for a quick recovery, cherish her and toast her/your health, it is important for all of us!

 

[Ted J]

Doesn't the Cook's roller flatten out the whole blade, and then you have to reset the teeth afterwards or just use it as a flat blade?

So your just wanting to flatten out a saw blade correct so you can get rid of any pitching in the blade because the tooth setting may be out of whack?

If that's the case and you want to fab your own or a place to start from, look at Eastwoods site, you may have to fabricate your own mandrells for the machine to adapt to a band blade. For $150 it's a place to start, there isn't a price on the Cook's website that I found for their band roller.
http://www.eastwood.com/economy-bead-roller-kit-with-mandrels.html

 

[deeker]

Alan,
I've got one, but I haven't used it lately since I haven't ran my mill for a while. Right now I'm "babysitting" my wife while she recovers from surgery, and we've had quite a bit of snow so I'll have to dig my way into the shed.
It may be a little while, but I'll share pic's.
If anyone else has one feel free to share pic's before me.

Andy

Babysitting!! Don't make me come there and hurt ya. I hope she is doing well, and give her our best. Prayers sent for her.

If you would pass on some info about the roller...we would appreciate it and I might even turn down the heat for you.

Thanks

Kevin

 

[deeker]

Doesn't the Cook's roller flatten out the whole blade, and then you have to reset the teeth afterwards or just use it as a flat blade?

So your just wanting to flatten out a saw blade correct so you can get rid of any pitching in the blade because the tooth setting may be out of whack?

If that's the case and you want to fab your own or a place to start from, look at Eastwoods site, you may have to fabricate your own mandrells for the machine to adapt to a band blade. For $150 it's a place to start, there isn't a price on the Cook's website that I found for their band roller.
http://www.eastwood.com/economy-bead-roller-kit-with-mandrels.html

Yes it is to flatten out the blade. And when a tooth is set too far, I pull out the tiwaimi made pliars and bend it in line.

After the blade is rolled flat..(not for the benefit of the tooth set)...the teeth are set again....and then sharpened.

Going to look up your information.

Thanks

Kevin

 

[FJH]

Doesn't the Cook's roller flatten out the whole blade, and then you have to reset the teeth afterwards or just use it as a flat blade?

So your just wanting to flatten out a saw blade correct so you can get rid of any pitching in the blade because the tooth setting may be out of whack?

If that's the case and you want to fab your own or a place to start from, look at Eastwoods site, you may have to fabricate your own mandrells for the machine to adapt to a band blade. For $150 it's a place to start, there isn't a price on the Cook's website that I found for their band roller.
http://www.eastwood.com/economy-bead-roller-kit-with-mandrels.html

Naw I highly doubt you want to flaten out the teeth That would shorten the life big time unsetting and resetting!
The unit above may be a good start we'll see!
comes with diffrent mandrals!
Lets see what Andy comes up with!
Thanx to Al for posting this! Its been on my mind for quite some time ,I like others here don't got 1000 bucks to spend on the cooks unit!If it were a more resonable price it would likly be a good buy and they would likly sell truckloads of them!Andy swears by his!Thanx Andy If ya can donate that would be great!

 

[TraditionalTool]

Naw I highly doubt you want to flaten out the teeth That would shorten the life big time unsetting and resetting!

That was my initial thought also, as the teeth can be brittle also when tempered and many of the manufacturers do temper the teeth. However, they are spring steel, and might be able to withstand that.

Lets see what Andy comes up with!

I'll second that. I think it's best to first understand how the Cook's Band Roller works, as well as other Band Rollers. I have a contact who has one that was designed for larger/wider bandsaws blades, that might help shed some light also. As important would be to understand what/if any deficiencies the Cook's Band Roller has, and if possible to work any of those issues out that would be good also. This I mean in regard to how it adjusts and/or holds the band while is it rolled, things like that.

Thanx to Al for posting this! Its been on my mind for quite some time ,I like others here don't got 1000 bucks to spend on the cooks unit!If it were a more resonable price it would likly be a good buy and they would likly sell truckloads of them!Andy swears by his!Thanx Andy If ya can donate that would be great!

Your most welcome, just trying to understand this to decide for myself if it's possible to come up with another/similar tool that would do the same thing. That bead roller is interesting which Ted posted, and there are some inexpensive slip-rolls available as well which are designed for rolling sheets of metal. Fortunately the thickness of the bands we use are thin, so most of the inexpensive machines should be able to handle it with the proper rollers.

 

[FJH]

That was my initial thought also, as the teeth can be brittle also when tempered and many of the manufacturers do temper the teeth. However, they are spring steel, and might be able to withstand that.

I'll second that. I think it's best to first understand how the Cook's Band Roller works, as well as other Band Rollers. I have a contact who has one that was designed for larger/wider bandsaws blades, that might help shed some light also. As important would be to understand what/if any deficiencies the Cook's Band Roller has, and if possible to work any of those issues out that would be good also. This I mean in regard to how it adjusts and/or holds the band while is it rolled, things like that.

Your most welcome, just trying to understand this to decide for myself if it's possible to come up with another/similar tool that would do the same thing. That bead roller is interesting which Ted posted, and there are some inexpensive slip-rolls available as well which are designed for rolling sheets of metal. Fortunately the thickness of the bands we use are thin, so most of the inexpensive machines should be able to handle it with the proper rollers.

I see we wern't the only ones thinking!
I beleive that that machine will be easily adaptable to our needs!Its cheap enough But I live in canada it will be an ordeal getting here it id think we'll see!

 

[FJH]

there isn't a price on the Cook's website that I found for their band roller

No they seem to have takin down the price!
It was aprox 800 us!

 

[FJH]

I was wrong $ 895

http://www.cookssaw.com/bandsaw/bandsaw-blade-roller.php

 

[redprospector]

First off, thank's for all the well wishes and especially prayers. Dr. said the wife is on track with her recovery. She's not supposed to lift over 10 lbs. and that's my main problem. I almost have to beat her over the head to keep her down.

Now, as far as the band roller. You guy's are thinking wrong on how to flatten the blade, It's not done with 2 flat rollers and the set dosen't get flattened. One roller is flat, and the other has a rather large bead on it.

First let's look at how that cup get's into your band. A new blade is theoretically flat. Your band wheel's have a crown on them. After you install the blade and tension it, the blade somewhat conforms to the crown in the wheel, which causes the tracking on the saw to work.............But, remember that for every action there is an equal but opposite reaction. Every time the blade goes around the wheel the molecules in the steel of the band are moving (stretching, flattening out, whatever you want to call it). Depending on the gearing on your mill, the wheels are turning at probably about 900 rpm's. Every time the blade cups to fit the wheel the molecules move a little more, but mostly on the inside of the blade while the outside stays relativly the same. So what happens is exactly opposite of what most of us would think.............The blade cups in the opposite direction of what it cups going around the wheel.
With the band roller what you are doing is finding where the center of that cup is, and stretching, or moving the molecules on the outside of the blade to match those on the inside, creating a flat blade again.

$900 plus shipping is a lot of money, but I have over doubled the life of my bands with the roller. So if you're using your mill quite a bit, it is an investment that will pay you back pretty quick. I hate to think of how many dollars worth of blades I have thrown away that could have been rolled and had twice the life.
I'll try to draw up something of how it works so you guy's can get a better idea before I get a chance to get the pic's.

Andy

 

[FJH]

Andy look at the rig that ted posted

go to the link and look at the atachment madrals pic! in the add
see if any of those suit the job!!!I know what your talking about we dont want to flaten past the gullet !
The crown is in the body of the blade as Tim has always said!
the is a set of dies there that I think may work!

 

[FJH]

http://www.eastwood.com/economy-bead-roller-kit-with-mandrels.html

 

[redprospector]

http://www.eastwood.com/economy-bead-roller-kit-with-mandrels.html

The two on the far right might be made to work.
Here is a drawing of what it has. Sorry I'm not better at drawing on the computer.

Well, that didn't work. Let me try again.

Andy

 

[Ted J]

go to the link and look at the atachment madrals pic! in the add
see if any of those suit the job!!!I know what your talking about we dont want to flaten past the gullet !
The crown is in the body of the blade as Tim has always said!
the is a set of dies there that I think may work!

You mean these?

 

[redprospector]

Ok, let's see if this works.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/redprospector/Saw mill/Plansdrawings.jpg

Andy

 

[deeker]

Doesn't the Cook's roller flatten out the whole blade, and then you have to reset the teeth afterwards or just use it as a flat blade?

So your just wanting to flatten out a saw blade correct so you can get rid of any pitching in the blade because the tooth setting may be out of whack?

If that's the case and you want to fab your own or a place to start from, look at Eastwoods site, you may have to fabricate your own mandrells for the machine to adapt to a band blade. For $150 it's a place to start, there isn't a price on the Cook's website that I found for their band roller.
http://www.eastwood.com/economy-bead-roller-kit-with-mandrels.html

Ok, let's see if this works.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/redprospector/Saw mill/Plansdrawings.jpg

Andy

Are there different ones for the convex and concave blades??? Or do we turn them inside out???