Anybody own or use a chainsaw on a stick?

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oldiron

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Right here between Devil's Den and Hell's Hollar
Considering purchasing a pole saw and am curious about pros and cons of the different models out there. Looking at the Stihl HT101 and HT131. Any help or advice is appreciated. Local hardware dealer has a nice looking Echo also but it would not match the rest of the fleet. :hmm3grin2orange:
 
I have a HT131 and really like it. They are pricy but do a great job. One caution, when you go out in the yard to trim a "few" limbs, you can cut enough in 15 minutes to drag and deal with for an hour or so. Also be sure and undercut limbs or you will get pinched everytime and can damage the drive tube which is expensive to replace.

Steve
 
+1 to saxman's comments. I've got a Stihl FS85 with a chainsaw attachment and it is very useful. Excellent for cutting up brush - not as fast as regular saws, but with a sharp chain it has no problem cutting up to 6-8" limbs. I expect the dedicated pole saws to be even better.
 
i have the stihl polesaw its a handy tool and you can get carried away as the last post mentioned lol i do a under cut about 1 ft out from the trunk then offset the top cut ,limb usually falls away without pinch then cut the stub with 1 cut from the top .working with it fully extended will wear you out pretty quick good luck with your purchse regardless of brand jk
 
i "stole" my buddies stihl. the $600 one.. not sure the model just know its the pro pole saw. That girl ate some 8 and 10 inch limbs. you WILL feel like you got a workout at the end of the day after holding it up. and yeah... it takes 3 hours to clean up an hours worth of work with the saw
 
I have a HT131 and really like it. They are pricy but do a great job. One caution, when you go out in the yard to trim a "few" limbs, you can cut enough in 15 minutes to drag and deal with for an hour or so. Also be sure and undercut limbs or you will get pinched everytime and can damage the drive tube which is expensive to replace.

Steve

Yup!

I also have 131, it's unreal how easy it starts after setting for months at a time.
But all of my 4-mix are that way, I have pulled the cutting head of mine
and used it on FS90 for low to ground light work. Just for fun I put trimmer
head on the 131, then I had a loooooooooooong reach trimmer :)

Anyway my 131 is a cutting machine, you can put some limbs on the ground
in a hurry. If you buy a 6 pack of Ultra at the same time it will double your warranty
Dad has 131 also and 3 other friends of mine them, all have had zero problems.


TT
 
Bought my HT131 after an ice storm a few years back. Saved me from some dangerous climbing situations. I don't often use it, but when I do, I sure am glad to have it around.
 
I have a HT101 and use it mainly on fence rows to prune trees from making contact with the tractor. Regarless what type you have they can work your upper body. Word of advice keep your chain sharp it helps with performance. The under cut is a must.

The pole saw has also been a great tool to cut brush for duck blinds. It is one of the best saws I own and proved itself when the ice storm hit western ky a couple of years ago. Simply a great tool.
 
I have an older one. I got it for trimming palms. Its not really good for that though. Won't trim close enough to the crown.
Great for cutting low hanging branches or topping a long row of woody hedge like olianders from a bucket.

I think they break kinda easy though. The motors always seem to work fine but the shaft and the gears are a little weak in my opinion.
 
I have a HT131 and really like it. They are pricy but do a great job. One caution, when you go out in the yard to trim a "few" limbs, you can cut enough in 15 minutes to drag and deal with for an hour or so. Also be sure and undercut limbs or you will get pinched everytime and can damage the drive tube which is expensive to replace.

Steve

:agree2:

My neighbor hasa Stihl, I use it frequently. One thing I would add though is to cut large limbs off in 1/3's so there isn't so much "leverage". My neighbor cut a large limb, pinched the bar and when the limb dropped it bent the drive tube and cost him almost $500 to fix.

When you make the final, third cut it will come off cleanly and and not tear the bark. (undercut and don't cut into the collar at the limb/trunk junction.)
 
All advice above is good and true, extendibles saws are a great tool
Consider just expandable hand saw poles. They less cost and hassle to store away great for retivin ropes pickin off dead wood and if ya only workin a few limbs a day just as good. Look at Baileys Sliky pole saw range.
 
I have one of the Stihl extendable pole saws and find that it will allow you to do things quickly that would ordinarily take a lot of rigging. Even a tree that is going to be climbed for a take down can have a lot of time saved by clearing out some of the low branches first.

The previous advice about not getting the saw pinched should be heeded as it is a real pain to get this hung up. It's not like you can just grab another saw and rescue it...

The one we have starts easily, idles and runs great. I have been very pleased with it. They are expensive but I think they're worth the investment. We bought ours used in like new condition at a pawn shop. Still paid plenty but a lot less than new price.
 
Thanks for all the info, it has been really good. I have a hand held Corona saw, while it does a good job it will tire you out pretty quick when using the saw portion. It has the cam activated lopper which is really nice. I have 12 fairly wooded acres and another property with 1800 ft.of driveway that overhanging limbs pose issues getting tall vehicles in and out of. I have always wanted the extendable power pruner, I guess I am looking for the little nudge to go buy one. Right now I am thinking the HT131 and go for the oil/warranty deal... :monkey:
 
Wanted to add a comment: I drive a full size short box pickup and the length of the saw will not allow the cap to close. This is an issue for security as all the equipment in the truck is then unsecured. I am always paranoid that stuff will go missing while I'm running an errand. I could attach it to the ladder rack but then it is really being advertised and not so great either.
 
:agree2:

When you make the final, third cut it will come off cleanly and and not tear the bark. (undercut and don't cut into the collar at the limb/trunk junction.)

:agree2: 110%

Less damage to the tree and wound will heal over with time.
If you cut to far out it can't heal over, then the short piece
of limb will rot all the way into the tree.


TT
 
One caution, when you go out in the yard to trim a "few" limbs, you can cut enough in 15 minutes to drag and deal with for an hour or so. Also be sure and undercut limbs or you will get pinched everytime and can damage the drive tube which is expensive to replace.

yes!!! especially on doing and undercut on the limb. i have a HT 75 which is an older model, but it does a great job. with a sharp chain, it will whittle through a 4" oak limbs with no problem.
 
I guess I am looking for the little nudge to go buy one. Right now I am thinking the HT131 and go for the oil/warranty deal... :monkey:


I use Ultra anyway, but The Stihl man Lakeside53 :bowdown: said
it is best to run Ultra in all 4-mix anyway. He retired from AS
couple years back. You could take most anything he said
about Stihl to the bank.........or I sure did.


TT
 
No, but I do own a stick, a pretty big one too, I might add.

Edit: Wow, I do a good job stopping threads. Two whole hours without a single post...
 
Last edited:
Wanted to add a comment: I drive a full size short box pickup and the length of the saw will not allow the cap to close. This is an issue for security as all the equipment in the truck is then unsecured. I am always paranoid that stuff will go missing while I'm running an errand. I could attach it to the ladder rack but then it is really being advertised and not so great either.

I lock & chain mine to the headache rack. Alternatively, I have also put it in the cab with the bar poking out a partially lowered window.
 
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