Anyone own a 'Super Split' log splitter?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
How in the world do you folks lift 36" rounds onto the beam of a horizontal splitter?? I must be terribly feeble.

I'm not sure why you would even try moving 36" wood at all, whether it be up on a horizontal splitter, over to a vertical, or even onto or out of the truck/trailer. Unless you have a skidsteer or a tractor, it makes no sense. Rather than try moving this size wood, I cut it in half,or even quarter it, with one of my big saws (3120, 880, 064, etc.). It only takes a minute to do and I don't have to struggle with it at all.

With that said, the SS tends to be suited better for wood (hardwood) under 24" or so. When you throw really big wood on there it sometimes takes two or three hits to break through it... so cutting it first makes it not only easier to handle, but also easier to split. But honestly, what percentage of the wood you handle that is >24"? I do get some biggies every so often, but the majority is certainly under 24".

dieseldave said:
Friend of mine just bought a new one and I managed to borrow it for a little while. It is incredible, especially when compared to my big box store hydraulic splitter. One problem we've had is getting it to return- the roller that supports the rack gets fouled and has to be constsntly cleaned out. What solutions do you longtime SS owners have?

I had the same problem when I got mine. I was pretty irritated when I first got it, but after asking about it, I was told it was normal and that it would wear in with some use and become a non-issue... which turned out to be the case. Regardless, there are some tricks that you'll learn which can make this much less of an issue. First, I keep a 1" scraper on the machine (it fits perfectly on the left hand side of the back of the engine between the engine and the frame). Every so often I run the scraper down that 1/2" path the roller travels. It's important to keep this and the beam clean, especially when it's new. Don't forget to pull the rack out by hand every so often and scrape the beam behind where it rests as well. I also found spraying the beam down (and then wiping it) with WD40 makes a big difference. I spray the beam, under the rack, the wedge, and the production table down (and wipe it so there's no wet spots) before every use. You might want to spray the beam every so often until your SS loosens up. The other thing you can do is put some more tension on the springs, they can be adjusted under the engine. Do these things, and keep the beam clean, and you'll soon find this problem will disappear.

johnha said:
I'd like to see a video of how it handles a piece of knotty 20" diameter sycamore or oak before I'd give it a thumbs up. All that demo wood in the videos looks like stuff my hydraulic splits clean after only going 3" into a 20" log.

Interesting though.
I have yet to find a piece of wood my SS wont split, but I might have to hit and move it several times to get through it. The key is to learn to read the wood and to disengage the rack quickly if it starts to struggle (and then reengage it a second later for another hit). There is a little bit of a learning curve with this, but once you spend a little time with the machine, you quickly learn what it will and wont do. It doesn't have much of a problem with small or medium size crotches (or knots), but it will struggle with large crotches. But again, if you position the wood correctly, it will go through it after a hit or two. But rather than mess with the really bad stuff, I cut the crotches flush with the saw when I'm bucking the logs so it wont be an issue when splitting. In the rare event I see something that I know it's going to be a major PITA to split, I'll just rip it with the saw.

There's no doubt a medium or large hydraulic splitter will handle very large or knotty wood better than a SS, but the SS can typically handle it, and if not I have yet to find a piece of wood my saws wont go through with ease. But how often do I have to struggle to get the SS to go through something? Probably less than 5% of the time it takes a second hit. But the trade-off is that it will run circles around most hydraulic splitters the other 95% of the time... A trade-off I'm very happy and willing to accept! :)
 
"I'm not sure why you would even try moving 36" wood at all, whether it be up on a horizontal splitter, over to a vertical, or even onto or out of the truck/trailer. Unless you have a skidsteer or a tractor, it makes no sense."
You make a very good point. I, however, have no choice in the matter. My neighbor works for a tree service and he brings me wood by the dump truck load. Many of the logs are 30"+ and 10-15 ft. in length. It is either a matter of having to utilize them or let them rot on the spot. I cut them in 16" sections and move them to my splitter (in the vertical mode) by using a cant hook. Very simple and a great workout for the shoulders. Bring your super split over and we'll have a contest.:greenchainsaw:
 
a little advice

"I'm not sure why you would even try moving 36" wood at all, whether it be up on a horizontal splitter, over to a vertical, or even onto or out of the truck/trailer. Unless you have a skidsteer or a tractor, it makes no sense."
You make a very good point. I, however, have no choice in the matter. My neighbor works for a tree service and he brings me wood by the dump truck load. Many of the logs are 30"+ and 10-15 ft. in length. It is either a matter of having to utilize them or let them rot on the spot. I cut them in 16" sections and move them to my splitter (in the vertical mode) by using a cant hook. Very simple and a great workout for the shoulders. Bring your super split over and we'll have a contest.:greenchainsaw:

When he dumps that big of log.. Put a 24 inch bar on your saw.. walk up to the butt end.. and make a vertical cut. This cut will be from the top down all the way through.Then make you buck cut to 16"-whatever length you burn. Now you will have two halves. one should fall each way. Then rip them into two pieces. Now you have four pieces small enough to handle.
 
"I'm not sure why you would even try moving 36" wood at all, whether it be up on a horizontal splitter, over to a vertical, or even onto or out of the truck/trailer. Unless you have a skidsteer or a tractor, it makes no sense."
You make a very good point. I, however, have no choice in the matter. My neighbor works for a tree service and he brings me wood by the dump truck load. Many of the logs are 30"+ and 10-15 ft. in length. It is either a matter of having to utilize them or let them rot on the spot. I cut them in 16" sections and move them to my splitter (in the vertical mode) by using a cant hook. Very simple and a great workout for the shoulders. Bring your super split over and we'll have a contest.:greenchainsaw:


Put 2 logs side by side the same size. I'll bring my chainsaw and super splitter you can have your saw,hydraulic splitter,and cant hook. The winner gets to sit back and watch the other finish while drinking beer. Here's the catch. You have to supply the beer. Because I'll have a six pack done by the time you finish. It really is that much faster. Like the other person said. Just rip the piece so you can handle it. I know if you have rounds there ready to split. I can split them faster then you can stack them in a truck.


Scott
 
Friend of mine just bought a new one and I managed to borrow it for a little while. It is incredible, especially when compared to my big box store hydraulic splitter. One problem we've had is getting it to return- the roller that supports the rack gets fouled and has to be constsntly cleaned out. What solutions do you longtime SS owners have?

It also helps to elevate the front just a bit. I have a small block I put under the leg. This gives it a slight angle and helps the spring return the ram.

Scott
 
OK, I give

You have convinced me that I should have a Super Split. Now, you guys decide which of you is willing to sell me your ss for $800. That is what I paid for my 22 ton Swisher and I must stay within a budget. I, of course, will pay for the shipping costs. Let me know when you have made a decision.
 
The SS seem like the cats meow. If it were a year ago I think I'd be scrounging for the 3k but a lot has changed.... $2k sounds reasonable. Scott care to post some pictures so I can see what condition yours is in? :)

I'm wondering if it would be feasible to build one (I own a lathe and mill). I've done a bit of research and I think I found the SS patent. It has long since expired.

Given I'm working 12 hrs a day, it's not likely I'll build one but I am curious to see the mechanisms under the hood. Would anyone within a reasonable drive of Stamford, CT be willing to indulge me?

:cheers:

-Adrien
 
I'm wondering if it would be feasible to build one (I own a lathe and mill). I've done a bit of research and I think I found the SS patent. It has long since expired.

Given I'm working 12 hrs a day, it's not likely I'll build one but I am curious to see the mechanisms under the hood. Would anyone within a reasonable drive of Stamford, CT be willing to indulge me?

:cheers:

-Adrien
It would be pretty easy to build one, I thought about it as well. If I didn't find my SS, this is probably the route I would have taken.

There is also a guy building a clone for almost half the price. I haven't seen his machine in person, but it certainly didn't look nearly as polished as the SS when I checked it out on his website many months ago. Although, the price and the product may have changed since then. I want to say the name of it was something like "Timber Wolf" and I believe he's located in VT or possibly NH. It's at least worth checking out if you want a similar machine w/o the hefty price tag.

Keep an eye out for used machines as well, I saw (and missed) two others before I got mine. This was over a 6 month period. One, in RI, was electric and went for $400, and the other, in NH, was gas and went for $800. They have been making these for a long time, but I don't think they've made any significant changes in the design over the years. Because the design is pretty simple, there isn't much to wear or break on them so don't be concerned about the age of the machine should you find an older used machine.


I have one cord of oak left to split next weekend, you're welcome to come over and do the splitting and check out how the SS is built if you'd like. I'm in Clinton.
 
That was a joke also I would never part with it. I have thought about buying another one. There is a reason you see so few for sale.

Scott
 
It would be pretty easy to build one, I thought about it as well. If I didn't find my SS, this is probably the route I would have taken.

There is also a guy building a clone for almost half the price. I haven't seen his machine in person, but it certainly didn't look nearly as polished as the SS when I checked it out on his website many months ago. Although, the price and the product may have changed since then. I want to say the name of it was something like "Timber Wolf" and I believe he's located in VT or possibly NH. It's at least worth checking out if you want a similar machine w/o the hefty price tag.

Keep an eye out for used machines as well, I saw (and missed) two others before I got mine. This was over a 6 month period. One, in RI, was electric and went for $400, and the other, in NH, was gas and went for $800. They have been making these for a long time, but I don't think they've made any significant changes in the design over the years. Because the design is pretty simple, there isn't much to wear or break on them so don't be concerned about the age of the machine should you find an older used machine.


I have one cord of oak left to split next weekend, you're welcome to come over and do the splitting and check out how the SS is built if you'd like. I'm in Clinton.


One of the members here made one that looked pretty awesome, he hasn't been on here in a while.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=8590

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=6668&page=3
 
Now that is a mansized splitter!! With a 9" cylinder and 2000psi you should be able to generate around 63.5 tons of force. Will you be coming to central Indiana with it soon? That is exactly what I need for some huge rounds of silver maple, elm and sycamore. Good job. :dizzy:

once something pisses me off, i make sure it doesn't piss me off again :)
that and i do things on the slightly larger scale :) i don't toy around. i build stuff so it won't break. sometimes the best hardware is the stuff you build yourself, only because YOU know what your going to do with it.
 
I had the same problem when I got mine. I was pretty irritated when I first got it, but after asking about it, I was told it was normal and that it would wear in with some use and become a non-issue... which turned out to be the case. Regardless, there are some tricks that you'll learn which can make this much less of an issue. First, I keep a 1" scraper on the machine (it fits perfectly on the left hand side of the back of the engine between the engine and the frame). Every so often I run the scraper down that 1/2" path the roller travels. It's important to keep this and the beam clean, especially when it's new. Don't forget to pull the rack out by hand every so often and scrape the beam behind where it rests as well. I also found spraying the beam down (and then wiping it) with WD40 makes a big difference. I spray the beam, under the rack, the wedge, and the production table down (and wipe it so there's no wet spots) before every use. You might want to spray the beam every so often until your SS loosens up. The other thing you can do is put some more tension on the springs, they can be adjusted under the engine. Do these things, and keep the beam clean, and you'll soon find this problem will disappear.

I've been cleaning the beam with my pocketknife- the scraper is a good idea, save the knife for opening beer bottles- and spraying away with the WD40, it's good to hear that I've been heading in the right direction :cheers:
 
That was a joke also I would never part with it. I have thought about buying another one. There is a reason you see so few for sale.

Or maybe they're just rare? I've been a wood scrounge for ten years and never even heard of a SS before this thread.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top