Anyone prefer the cheap stihls

[deye223]

life's too short pro saw all the way

 

[Grateful11]

The first time I used my MS180 it shocked the hound out of me. I thought it would be too weak to even pull the little narrow chain it came with. I was truly surprised at how fast it zipped through anything 10" and under. I still buy the little Pico narrow, whatever you call it, chain for it, I have about 4 chains for it, try keep them all sharp so I just change out when they get dull. I also like the non-flippy caps ;-)

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I actually prefer FREE Stihls!

But I do get quite a bit of mileage out of my 021 like everyone else. A buddy of mine has an old 025 that he's been beating the snot out of for over 20 years. I couldn't believe him noodling 36" hard maple with it for pounding a few splitting wedges, but that sort of explains itself, (and him, too) now doesn't it?:msp_scared:

Poge

 

[Arrowhead]

Had a ms310 for many years. I cut tons of wood with it and put hundreds of hours on it. I never had a single issue with it. I also have an 015 top handle I love for limbing.

 

[homelitejim]

I had a ms170 that I liked but when the opportunity presented itself I upgraded.

 

[grack]

i picked up a cheap well used 250 and 017 to save wear on my big saws about five years ago
they get run by me or as loaners for firewood and have never stopped i couldn't ask any more of any saw.

 

[Mad Professor]

I do!!!

The first CHEAP stihl I got was FREE!!!

A well used038 M II. The carb and recoil were full of sawdust, a peak at the cyl/piston showed a recent new piston without any scores and sthil had machining marks.

Ran like champ with those cleaned up, so I got a new 25" ES bar and RS chain.

That was 15 years ago, all I've replaced since are chains and rims.

Got to love those CHEAP stihls!!!

 

[Saw Dr.]

I like the little ones just fine. 023L and the 440 is pretty much my 2 saw plan. I love the 023L since it is electric-motor quiet, and light enough to do lots of flipping around. With a reasonable bar length and sharp chain, they'll surprise alot of folks.

 

[Slackerjpt]

We just got over the big snow disaster in Connecticut.. My folks yard had trees down all over. I went over to the folks with my 021 and 361. I never took the 361 out of the car. I own about 40 Stihl saws from 009 to 660 but always grab the cheap 021 first. I know most people on here bag on the homeowner grade saws but They sure seem to get the job done.

Still love my MS 280 but it wasn't that cheap.

 

[Brushwacker]

Notably I like the 018 and 025 for small to medium size limbing when I've been working long and am getting a bit wore out. They're not to fast but comfortable ,lightweight and maintain a nice pace to keep going without over stressing my physical limits. Accidents sometimes happen to so if I notice the chainsaw is at better then average risk I opt for the cheapest lightest saw, big enough for the job, I have with me to make those cuts.
Actually I find it difficult to keep up with the pace for very long that the faster pro saws run, especially moving through smaller wood, cutting firewood 16".

 

[genesis5521]

I love my little 7 year old Stihl MS170 with a 14 in bar. It's the only saw I've ever owned. Cut 50 full cords with it in the past 7 years. Never ever gave me any trouble. Reliable as dirt. Are bigger saws faster. Sure, but at a pretty significant price/weight increase. But my little 170 was cheap ($150 new) and so light and maneuverable and that more than makes up for the lower power. It's been a pleasure to use. It's done everything I've ever asked of it. Together, we've spent many a fine day in the woods. The chain oiler pooped out just last week. No big deal. Looking at a new Stihl MS250 to replace it, but I'll get the 170 fixed and use it as a backup saw. The 250 felt just like my 170. Couldn't hardly notice the very slight weight increase. The 250 has almost twice the power of the 170 (3.0 vs 1.7 HP). While most of the stuff I cut is under 14 inches in diameter, I've cut few 28 inch trees to. A 14 inch bar on a MS250 (if that's possible without over-revving it) should make it sing real nice. I just don't need a longer bar. I get my trees from the Nicolet National Forest, and am limited, by law, to trees no larger than 18 inches. As a side note. I'm not a died-in-the-wool Stihl guy. I looked at "all" saws as replacement to the 170. The 250 just felt the most comfortable and "familiar" to me.

Don <><

 

[tallguys]

I'm not a died-in-the-wool Stihl guy. I looked at "all" saws as replacement to the 170. The 250 just felt the most comfortable and "familiar" to me.

Don <><

And there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. :msp_smile:

 

[indiansprings]

You'll really enjoy the MS 250, for the wood cutting you are describing, it certainly fits what you describe and you'll love the increase in power. In this area there are many guys who use them as their primary farm/firewood saw. I would look at a 16" set up on it, simply due to most shops readily carry pre-made loops of chain in 16" lenght's. Make sure they set you up with RMC 3 chain on the saw, real pro chain vs. the safety/low kick back chain they normally set them up with anymore. The low kickback chain/safety chain usually has green dots painted on the tie straps, vs. yellow dots on the more agressive pro chain. I'm getting a little rusty on memory but I believe it will be 23RMC3 chain, or if your cutting in good clean wood a full chisel chain RSC would be a good match, oregon's 22 lpx is also an excellent chain.
When you purchase your saw, Stihl is offering a promotion where if you buy a six pack of their premium synthetic mix with the saw they double the warranty to two years at the time of purchase. It's really a no brainer for the extra year of warranty for about 18-20 bucks more. Safe sawing!

 

[angelo c]

I can't say that I prefer them, but they will last most people a very long time if they take care of them. They are just a PITA to rebuild.

Zero,
I am rebuilding a 250 now and its my first clamshell. I haven't found it anymore difficult to rebuild then my pros. Matter of fact if a full rebuild(bearings-seals-topend-hoses) is being done I thought it was easier as I didn't have to split the cases and buy all the seals. What makes everyone complain so much about rebuilding the clams? Just curious..

oh i did remember one thing- my flywheel remover tool was useless on this model and I had to learn the "redneck" removal method- hammer and vicegrips....

 

[indiansprings]

Same thought here Angelo, when I got into my first clamshell I about pulled my hair out, I didn't realize that the bar stud had to come out, once I did my first one it sure isn't as bad as it is made out to be.
Thall did an excellent step by step thread complete with photos for guys that had never done it before. There not so bad once you've been in one or two, most of it is resistance to change.
Clamshells certainly have their place. With anything it is how you take care of them, keep them fueled with fresh good quality mix, keep them maintained and they'll give years of service.
My little 180 is living proof of the abuse and neglect that a clamshell can take. It has sit around for weeks with old fuel in it, starts right up, and just performs, it is the one saw that rarely if ever gets cleaned up, has been dropped out of loader buckets, if there is a chance of a saw getting damaged while cutting, out it comes, I've seen it flip thru the air more than once. The condition it is in most people wouldn't give me 30.00 for it, but it cost me about 175.00 bucks six/seven years ago, it sure has paid for itself many times over.

 

[derwoodii]

As of last 5 years I been grabin my 025 or 023 1st they do all needed. My 26 is still good to go but as she's gettin old I been allowin her rest awhile, let the young saws do their share.
The HO Stihls are great value go well and if stolen, harmed or straight fuelled by numb nuts its not so bad a loss.

 

[David (saltas)]

I got a 017 cheap 2nd hand and the best thing I did was get a 14 bar for a 211 so i could put some 50 thou non safety semi chisel chain on it and it is light and has bight. I have made it work hard to fell 24 inch stuff just to practice cutting stuff twice the bar length.

Mostly it is cutting used up small trees and palms (thirty feet) and stuff on the ground.

It gets used most on luv jobs for family as it is quick and it is cheap if a chain gets trashed cause their kid hammered thirty four nails into the tree ten year ago and nobody knew anything about it.

Luv jobs are in the afternoon after work so I am not doing them on my weekend so If I have been diggin holes and cementing pole in the sun all day it is kinda the smallest saw that gets the job not the one with the most fun factor. I do like to use a bigger saw and throw chips all over the place.........

Work has a new 250 and it cuts fine with a 18 inch bar. I am happy to use their saw rather than mine as they are not paying enough for me to use my own.

 

[RVALUE]

For me, it's not so much using cheap models, but anymore I always use the smallest saw that will get the job done. It's easier on the back and body. Why use a 660 when a 180 will get the job done effectively.

With me, the back saver is to add a reasonable length bar. 20 inch is great.

Don't tell me the little saws won't pull it, that's BS.

 

[russhd1997]

I bought an MS180 as a parts saw this summer for $20. It had been well used and abused but was all there minus the fuel cap and air filter. When I got it home I put a new plug and some fresh fuel in it and it started and ran on the 2nd pull. The chain on it was junk (and was on backwards) but it had been upgraded with a 16" bar. Went to the Stihl dealer and was able to get RMC yellow dot Picco chain for it. I was surprised to say the least at how well it cut. I use it for 6" and smaller wood and it pulls the 16" chain rather well. It has nice anti vibe compared to my Jred 2036 Turbo and handles really nice.

When I am cutting pecker poles it is one of the 1st saws that I grab. That, the Jred and Wild Thing go into the back of the tractor and that it the 1st one to get used. The Jred which I MM'ed is next followed by the Wild Thing if needed. My Dolmar 116si always goes to tackle the big stuff. To sum it up the little Stihls are good saws. Much higher quality than the competition.

 

[Showme]

You'll really enjoy the MS 250, for the wood cutting you are describing, it certainly fits what you describe and you'll love the increase in power. In this area there are many guys who use them as their primary farm/firewood saw. I would look at a 16" set up on it, simply due to most shops readily carry pre-made loops of chain in 16" lenght's. Make sure they set you up with RMC 3 chain on the saw, real pro chain vs. the safety/low kick back chain they normally set them up with anymore. The low kickback chain/safety chain usually has green dots painted on the tie straps, vs. yellow dots on the more agressive pro chain. I'm getting a little rusty on memory but I believe it will be 23RMC3 chain, or if your cutting in good clean wood a full chisel chain RSC would be a good match, oregon's 22 lpx is also an excellent chain.
When you purchase your saw, Stihl is offering a promotion where if you buy a six pack of their premium synthetic mix with the saw they double the warranty to two years at the time of purchase. It's really a no brainer for the extra year of warranty for about 18-20 bucks more. Safe sawing!

The chain needs to be the RMC without the "3" for the pro grade. The "3" is the safety version. Same on the RSC.