Anyone switch from old CB 5648 to gasification stove?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yea, I think they sent out an insert on cleaning that. I don't remember how often they recommend, if I think about it I will look tomorrow.

I got the insert about cleaning. I have replace my primary inlet tube elbow three times now in 5 years. Also fills with creosote. Black slug. Replaced all the fire brick this fall. Thole ught I need to but after pulling everything it was not needed. Nice to know the inside is in good shap

Ok good. I am glad this is a known maintenance item. I looked it up in the manual under the end of season cleaning. Too bad it's a tight fit to get the ratchet in there. lol. It's still an easy job.

I am thinking of lowering the time between the pulses due to it being so warm out. My thought process on this is to reduce the amount of time that the stove is just sitting there festering. Hopefully reduce some buildup.
 
Going to have to check the elbow when I get home. Not getting enough air in the firebox. Holes in the sides are pretty clean but you can't feel much flow. Having trouble keeping temps up unless I open the firebox and get it blazing. It's good for 10 minutes then I start dropping. The solenoids seemed to be operating fine when I check this am.
 
Going to have to check the elbow when I get home. Not getting enough air in the firebox. Holes in the sides are pretty clean but you can't feel much flow. Having trouble keeping temps up unless I open the firebox and get it blazing. It's good for 10 minutes then I start dropping. The solenoids seemed to be operating fine when I check this am.

It's not a hard job. Biggest pain is getting a ratchet on the hose clamp in the back as it is a little tight in there.

The neighbor made a really good discovery. There is an inherent drawback to burning down as there is nothing getting the wood going above the first 2 or so rows.

So what we have been doing with fresh fills is leave the bypass open for about an hour. The problem with this is unless you have the 750, there is no bypass with the smaller Edge models which thoroughly sucks.

By leaving the bypass open it acts as a traditional stove and gets about half of the fill going. Pull the lever back down and that sucker rages. Pretty much has eliminated the bridging issues we had been having.
 
With my experience though, with a gasifier, you don't really want the wood 'going' on the upper end of the 'fire'. You want it to cook the gases out (pyrolisis) with only the bottom end on the coals really burning (and making more coals) - as the load settles, the bottom burns up. Leaving the bypass open will reduce your efficiency and not burn the dirties, for that period of time - not how it was designed to work.

They are prone to bridging, just a characteristic. Fairly uniform splits usually help with that, and not stacking the box tight.
 
It was the elbow and it wasn't just a little full. Full back to the stove. Cleaned it out and I was roaring again. Talked to my dealer and we are going to try some ashtrol in there about once a week and I'm just going to ashtrol the sides and not the bottom of the firebox and see what that does. I also hooked up my leaf blower and sucked out the channels. There was zero sediment in the charge tube chamber. I was dumb. I knew something was up for a week but I had been burning some semi crap wood and just attributed it to that. Took me an hour to do and when I fired the stove back up I was kicking over 1000 in less than 10 minutes.

I've bridged maybe once or twice. Not been an issue for me and when I have the air passage clean I don't think it will be an issue. I run goofy size splits and logs as a bunch of wood I scored this year was split by someone else.
 
With my experience though, with a gasifier, you don't really want the wood 'going' on the upper end of the 'fire'. You want it to cook the gases out (pyrolisis) with only the bottom end on the coals really burning (and making more coals) - as the load settles, the bottom burns up. Leaving the bypass open will reduce your efficiency and not burn the dirties, for that period of time - not how it was designed to work.

They are prone to bridging, just a characteristic. Fairly uniform splits usually help with that, and not stacking the box tight.

With my experience I disagree.

I am monitoring this as it happens all day. Once in a while I'll text the neighbor to go out and poke the stove as I think there is something going on.

The more coals and more of the fill burning the better.

On a fresh fill directly on coals,the splits on the bottom and maybe the next row did well. Then there was a gap in performance until the rest of the pile started burning.

With having the bypass open and letting the stove run with the fire going through the pile there is no lapse in performance because at least the bottom third of the fill has been burning in that hour with the bypass open. It's not fresh wood, it's already been burning and ready to go.

The only poking I have done with the stove lately has been tightening the sides up, not knocking the bridge down.

With the bypass open, the stove goes into a holding pattern temp wise. It doesn't rise and maybe drops a few degrees.

Close the bypass and the temps skyrocket and stay at a quick recovery all day.

This is just my experience.
 
It was the elbow and it wasn't just a little full. Full back to the stove. Cleaned it out and I was roaring again. Talked to my dealer and we are going to try some ashtrol in there about once a week and I'm just going to ashtrol the sides and not the bottom of the firebox and see what that does. I also hooked up my leaf blower and sucked out the channels. There was zero sediment in the charge tube chamber. I was dumb. I knew something was up for a week but I had been burning some semi crap wood and just attributed it to that. Took me an hour to do and when I fired the stove back up I was kicking over 1000 in less than 10 minutes.

I've bridged maybe once or twice. Not been an issue for me and when I have the air passage clean I don't think it will be an issue. I run goofy size splits and logs as a bunch of wood I scored this year was split by someone else.

Lol. That's how all of ours is except for the stuff that I stacked yesterday that was run through a processor.

Keep us posted how the Ashtrol works. I was wondering if it was the same as pulverized lime. If you get great results I'll get some from our dealer.

I told the neighbor today that it is going to take a weekend to clean the stove out post season. It is going to be a mess.
 
With my experience I disagree.

I am monitoring this as it happens all day. Once in a while I'll text the neighbor to go out and poke the stove as I think there is something going on.

The more coals and more of the fill burning the better.

On a fresh fill directly on coals,the splits on the bottom and maybe the next row did well. Then there was a gap in performance until the rest of the pile started burning.

With having the bypass open and letting the stove run with the fire going through the pile there is no lapse in performance because at least the bottom third of the fill has been burning in that hour with the bypass open. It's not fresh wood, it's already been burning and ready to go.

The only poking I have done with the stove lately has been tightening the sides up, not knocking the bridge down.

With the bypass open, the stove goes into a holding pattern temp wise. It doesn't rise and maybe drops a few degrees.

Close the bypass and the temps skyrocket and stay at a quick recovery all day.

This is just my experience.

Guess we'll agree to disagree then - which is OK.

When I reload a fresh fill on a coal bed, I get immediate gasification at the bottom before I finish reloading & get the door shut. A lot of the time, it doesn't even look like there is a fire going in the firebox, since all the action is at the bottom. I shut the bypass right away, and it burns the whole load up, steadily, as intended.
 
Just interested to know, how much time in an average week would you estimate you spend working, cleaning or doing something with your stove excluding fills? Some of the posts make it seem like some are glued to their cell phones making sure it is working and a fair amount of constant cleaning. I don't even have a cell phone. LOL Once again, just looking for your input and not downing any of you. Trying to learn on what is going on with working units and experienced owners. I appreciate all of your insights and it will be helpful when I have t change mine.
 
Not sure how on-topic I am, since the thread title sort of seems to refer to OWBs. But I'll spit it out then step aside, anyway.

Mine is an indoor unit, with storage. I only actually have a fire going maybe 6 hours a day average through the winter. My daily maintenance amounts to a quick pushing of ashes from the last burn in the firebox, down the hole to the bottom chamber, then scooping out the bottom with a small ash scoop. Only takes a minute, before I build a new fire. Likely similar to any other daily ash handling routine. Weekly, I pull the 4 turbs & brush the 6 tubes. The only thing in there is fly ash. Goes pretty quick, takes maybe 5-10 minutes. I usually do that Sunday morning, not moving too fast then. Then either once or twice a year, I will pull the cleanout cap off the T on the back of the boiler, and scrape/brush the ash out that has settled in the almost horizontal pipe run back there, and out of the T & breach itself. That's another half hour. (Haven't done that yet this burn season). At the same time, on one of those cleanings, I will also drop the cleanout cover off the bottom of my chimney & let the accumulated ash out of there - that gets done at the end of burning season. The only thing I am dealing with top to bottom is fly ash - no creosote. Haven't brushed my chimney in the almost 5 years i have been using this thing.

While burning, I'm not glued to a cell phone, but I do have a wireless BBQ thermometer with two temps on it - top & bottom of storage (well, 1/4 up & 3/4 up).. Sometimes I pay attention to it, sometimes I forget about it, but I try to watch out for signs of bridging - temp not rising as fast as it should. It doesn't happen very often, but is the only one thing I 'watch' - if I remember to.

Also curious on this stuff on the OWB gassing units - I did consider one before going the way I did.
 
Guess we'll agree to disagree then - which is OK.

When I reload a fresh fill on a coal bed, I get immediate gasification at the bottom before I finish reloading & get the door shut. A lot of the time, it doesn't even look like there is a fire going in the firebox, since all the action is at the bottom. I shut the bypass right away, and it burns the whole load up, steadily, as intended.

My apologies NSMaple. I was just saying for my situation it seems to work better that way. It wasn't my intention to be argumentative.

And that is only for a full brand new fill. This morning there were 3 rows left. Jostled them around a bit, packed stove and then shut door and bypass.


Just interested to know, how much time in an average week would you estimate you spend working, cleaning or doing something with your stove excluding fills? Some of the posts make it seem like some are glued to their cell phones making sure it is working and a fair amount of constant cleaning. I don't even have a cell phone. LOL Once again, just looking for your input and not downing any of you. Trying to learn on what is going on with working units and experienced owners. I appreciate all of your insights and it will be helpful when I have t change mine.

Kevin,

15-20 minutes tops. Pop off the chimney inspection cap and clean out ash buildup in there then shake the cleaning chains for the heat exchangers. Button that back up.

Open the reaction chamber. Shovel out the ash up to the heat deflector. Remove the heat deflector and scrape from the heat exchangers back. Take the poker and clean out between heat exchangers. Scrape everything up to the front then shovel out.

Reinstall the heat shield, shut the reaction chamber door, and power the stove back up.

Maybe 5 gallons of ash. Pretty easy.

I'm my own worst enemy when it comes to the stove and I'm sure it comes off a lot more intensive than it actually is.

Due to our heat load I want quick recovery times. Along with the fact I can't leave things well enough alone and I am a little mental. :laugh:
 
I'm the same as BenP. I will check the elbows every two weeks now and will add ashtrol once a week to the one elbow. May add 30 minutes a month to my time. I have a 3 gallon can that gets filled up once a week of the ash.
 
My apologies NSMaple. I was just saying for my situation it seems to work better that way. It wasn't my intention to be argumentative.

None necessary at all. We're just relaying our experiences - and everyones experiences are usually a bit different.
 
I appreciate you guys giving the info on what you are doing. I get most of it but it's one of those things that makes complete sense when you have the equipment in front of you. I and others will at least have this thread to fall back on when we get to the point of owning one. Again, thanks for the tidbits of info and keep it coming. :drinkingcoffee:
 
I did a full clean that included the elbow today. I think it took 30 minutes tops.

I was flying doing it.

Optimally you would like to do this when the stove needs a full fill.

Not half full and mad.

I just cleaned the Schmutz out of the intake and attachment to the stove. Nothing major like the first time.

Elbow



Stove fitting.



Dealing with explosive gasses is fun!!! [emoji15]

Had a little mishap last week while cleaning. Neighbor thought the lake cut loose with a good ice heave.

I guess they felt it in the shop.
 
A small update from the weekend or "why it's nice to have a local dealer."

The week after the initial install I noticed a very small smoke leak coming from the top of the door.

I documented it, contacted the dealer, and sent him pictures. He got back to me and said to keep an eye on it.

Well it had went away I guess due to some buildup in that spot.

I contacted the dealer and filled him in. Worse case Ontario a new gasket would be going in post season.

Wellll, 1.5 weeks ago I cleaned the door a little too good. It started leaking pretty good and was starting to erode the gasket. Not good.

Neighbor ran into the dealer 2 Sunday's ago and explained what was going on. He said he would be out last week to look at it when we fill in the am. Neighbor laughed and said so you'll be here at 0430?

This past Tuesday I figured I would clean it good and adjust the door to maybe tighten it up a bit.

Wrong move Ben. Wrong move.

Shut the door and hey no leak. I closed the bypass handle and crap. Smoke was really coming out now from the firebox being pressurized.

Called the dealer and told him I would be out of town starting Friday and the neighbor would be in charge of the stove. So Saturday morning was his best chance for a fill at 0800 because I wouldn't be around.

Neighbor said he showed up at 0730, replaced the gasket and said no charge because the gasket was defective on the backside from the get go.

It's right as rain now.

ETA - The door gasket isn't the standard rope style. It's a one piece gasket made out of some type of urethane/foam material.
 
Here is what is left of my third elbow tube. On number 4 now.

e24d917c3ebe79bdaeb41a6f606ba02e.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top