ArborPro narrow kerf .325" x .50 bar, made in Taiwan...

[mowoodchopper]

I have one of those bars and chains. They are just fine. every bit as good as OEM. Very happy with equipment and even more pleased with Bailey's. Anytime I can I will order bulk with them.
ZG

Me to !!! Great people!

 

[Ma Barker]

At one time,all product descriptions in catalogs had the word "Imported" in the write-up somewhere(usually at the end) if the product was not made in the U.S.A.I guess it is not required anymore,I think they need to bring it back,"Country of Origin" is an item of interest to me at least.

Yeah, interesting that you don't see that much these days. Sometimes you'll see copy that simply says "imported'. I wonder if that requirement was eased as part of a trade agreement.

Which reminds me, I heard a story on the radio that said the Chinese government is launching a "Buy China First" campaign in response to other country's "Buy (your country's name here) First" campaigns. Good luck with that! Chinese goods are available, cheap and sometimes of good quality, but they have no cache' whatsoever. If anything, they have a stigma. The Chinese would much rather spend more on American and other foreign goods, just like us.

 

[TraditionalTool]

TT,

If it helps even a wee bit, the folks in Taiwan HATE the Chineese even more than you and I ever could, and proudly stand as an ally.

Stuff made in Taiwan used to be junk, but they have caught up quite well on the quality of most things.

Agreed on the Country of origin statement in catalogs, and in stores.
I hate buying something like an Aussie grill and finding out that it was made by Chineese slave labor instead of some Aussie LOL!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

Hear, hear! That is all I ask, I want to know when I buy it or at least be told online that it is imported.

Not such a big deal, an Oregon bar is about $27, I'll order one from Bailey's and be done with it. I can't use the bar they sent me anyway, since they didn't send the rim or clutch tool to replace the rim...those are backordered...

 

[Justsaws]

The important question is how many people have purchased a Made in the USA chain saw bar lately.

Imports are imports when it comes to C of O.

Japan most likely offers the best aftermarket bars available. After that it is a true crap shoot these days with all the branded relabeling.

 

[Steven B]

Bailey's does a good job at letting you know when it's made in the usa, in my opinion.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=17165&catID=1980
I ordered a 16" arbormax bar & oregon chain combo for my 025, the bar was made in canada not sure about the chain. http://www.srbracing.com/Chainsaw/IMG_0042.JPG

 

[KsWoodsMan]

I just found an Oregon bar that will accept narrow kerf on Bailey's, it's called the Micro-Lite. My bad I 'spose, didn't look close enough. But honestly, I didn't realize the ArborPro was made in Taiwan, I still think Bailey's should add that on their web site.

The Oregon Pro-Lite bars run NK chain (95P) just fine for me in hard woods on smaller saws. Been using it on 16" & 20" bars with a 7 pin drum setup and the rakers set at .030" for firewood and cleanup, very nice !

The Pro-Lite bar rails are a bit wider but can be bought in .050 guage which runs the NK chain. I think the bar might be a bit shorter because the tip may be larger. My 16" and 20" bars use 66 DL and 78 DL chains respectively. This is the same # of DL's called for with the Micro-Lite bars. It makes so much difference in the cut, I wouldn't even consider going back to low profile 33 or 91 chain.

 

[TraditionalTool]

I put that same combination (16") on a JRed 2036T and that stuff is like a laser beam. Cuts way better with .325NK vs .375LP.

barney,

I'm putting this on a Husky 359 (Jonsered 2159).

I have a Husky 336 that I put 1/4" pitch chain on, but seems like I might need to take a link out of the loop, it's a tad big it seems.

The difference in width is visually apparent when comparing the narrow kerf to the regular kerf on the .325" pitch chain I have. Not just in the width of the tooth itself, but the amount of angle/set to them as well. Proportionally it is quite a bit narrower.

I will be using this to cut logs to build a home with, I'm dovetailing the corners, but plan to use this for bucking the ends of the logs and the middle sections between the windows and doors. I will scribe the plumb cuts and then use this saw to get a clean cut along the scribe line. When done right you can see the wood flying off the scribe cleanly.

(wrong drum rim, certainly don't want to start it )

 

[TraditionalTool]

The Pro-Lite bar rails are a bit wider but can be bought in .050 guage which runs the NK chain. I think the bar might be a bit shorter because the tip may be larger. My 16" and 20" bars use 66 DL and 78 DL chains respectively. This is the same # of DL's called for with the Micro-Lite bars. It makes so much difference in the cut, I wouldn't even consider going back to low profile 33 or 91 chain.

The thing is that it seems there are special .50 gauge bars that are special for narrow kerf. My nk ArborPro bar seems to have a slightly rounder tip. All of my .325" pitch chains are 66 DL. The Husky bar is what came stock with my 336.

What is the difference between the .50 gauge .325" bars that will run narrow kerf and those that do not? Or are you saying that all .50 gauge bars can use narrow kerf?

Cheers,
TT

 

[MCW]

What is the difference between the .50 gauge .325" bars that will run narrow kerf and those that do not? Or are you saying that all .50 gauge bars can use narrow kerf?

I think you'll find if you run narrow kerf chain on some standard bars you can jam the bar as the width of cut through the wood (kerf) is narrower than the bar width.

 

[mowoodchopper]

I think you'll find if you run narrow kerf chain on some standard bars you can jam the bar as the width of cut through the wood (kerf) is narrower than the bar width.

Thats correct , the narrow kerf chain cuts a narrower path thus uses less power, but you should have a narrow kerf bar, bar is narrower so it does not bind up. You can run the nk on a regular bar but some work better than others I would just get a nk bar!

 

[TraditionalTool]

I think you'll find if you run narrow kerf chain on some standard bars you can jam the bar as the width of cut through the wood (kerf) is narrower than the bar width.

Thanks, that is exactly what I was wondering, and answers my question.

Bailey's got back to me and I told them I didn't think it was worth returning, since the shipping would cost almost as much as the bar, but that I would just keep it and order an Oregon Micro-Lite the next time I order parts from them.

I did make sure they heard my concern that I would like to see products marked as imported if they are not made in the USA and Customer Service is going to address that with management, I'm told.

Cheers,
TT

 

[NBailey]

Mr Traditional Tool,

We are working on the issue with country of origin right now. If you look at our website, we are updating products that we can confirm the manufacturing base with. We have over 100,000 parts on our website, so this is a huge undertaking, but our goal is to have all products online with a country of origin. Unfortunately, it is not a straight forward as one would think. Many manufacturers change sourcing and do not let us know. Large companies manufacture the same product in several different countries (Like OEM Stihl cylinders), so we don't really know where it is coming from until we get it. Many products are not labeled a all. That being said, our buyers are trying to give a U.S. option when ever possible. We are as patriotic as most of our customers.

 

[TraditionalTool]

Mr Traditional Tool,

We are working on the issue with country of origin right now. If you look at our website, we are updating products that we can confirm the manufacturing base with. We have over 100,000 parts on our website, so this is a huge undertaking, but our goal is to have all products online with a country of origin. Unfortunately, it is not a straight forward as one would think. Many manufacturers change sourcing and do not let us know. Large companies manufacture the same product in several different countries (Like OEM Stihl cylinders), so we don't really know where it is coming from until we get it. Many products are not labeled a all. That being said, our buyers are trying to give a U.S. option when ever possible. We are as patriotic as most of our customers.

Thank you very much for your response. I can say that Dee was very helpful to me through email, and I am happy with my purchase, I've decided to keep the ArborPro bar and will pick up an Oregon Micro-Lite in the future as funds permit. Problem is that you folks have so much stuff I want, it's hard to decide what I want to get first...can't afford to get it all...

I have worked on many web sites over the past 10 years, and I understand your dilemma, it is hard to keep a web site updated.

I have submitted quite a few questions, and the answer always comes back in email pretty quick. Keep up the great work, you have earned me as a satisfied customer, and in turn I will be ordering more products from you in the future.

Now, about that clutch tool for the Husky 359 that is on backorder...just kidding, I understand some stuff gets backordered...*lol*

Regards,
TT

 

[Urbicide]

Traditional Tool, you need to change out the catalytic muffler on that 359 to a traditional non-epa one. That cat traps a ton of heat which will shorten the life of your saw.

 

[TraditionalTool]

Traditional Tool, you need to change out the catalytic muffler on that 359 to a traditional non-epa one. That cat traps a ton of heat which will shorten the life of your saw.

I think Brad serviced that per the AS service bulletin before I bought it from him...

Actually I kinda lucked out, the saw did have a bad Walbro carb on it, and Brad replaced it with a Zama from another saw before he sold it to me. :biggrinbounce2:

I do need to figure out a decent muffler mod to make on it, most of the nice ones I see have the pipes going out the front. I need something going out the sides so I don't burn my hands up, as I will be butting the dog up against the cut for leveraging.

Any pics of a muffler mod pointing out/down (not back) to keep out of the cut in front of the muffler?

Cheers,
TT