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Thought I'd report my progress on the saw since it's been a few days. Got the Nova II and installed it right next to where the fuel line goes through below the flywheel (not under). I put it back together and cranked it up and it had great spark so I put a little fuel in it and couldn't get it to start. Took the flywheel cover back off, pulled the plug out and hooked up my timing light to it. To my slight surprise the timing was off...way off. It is advanced about 1/4 of the way around the flywheel. I have the points plate already retarded as much as the screw slots allow. I'm still using the CS750EVL flywheel. I noticed the 701VL flywheel carries a different part number and, viewing a picture of it, appears to be keyed in a different place. I guess my next move is to try to find a CS701VL flywheel for it.
 
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Thought I'd report my progress on the saw since it's been a few days. Got the Nova II and installed it right next to where the fuel line goes through below the flywheel (not under). I put it back together and cranked it up and it had great spark so I put a little fuel in it and couldn't get it to start. Took the flywheel cover back off, pulled the plug out and hooked up my timing light to it. To my slight surprise the timing was off...way off. It is advanced about 1/4 of the way around the flywheel. I have the points plate already retarded as much as the screw slots allow. I'm still using the CS750EVL flywheel. I noticed the 701VL flywheel carries a different part number and, viewing a picture of it, appears to be keyed in a different place. I guess my next move is to try to find a CS701VL flywheel for it.

Why not just pull the key and put the flywheel where you need it? The nut and taper should keep it there.
 
Why not just pull the key and put the flywheel where you need it? The nut and taper should keep it there.

You have a point. Another fellow today told me to make my own keyway in the flywheel with a rod saw. I'll try your method first, thanks.

Sounds like this is gonna be a lot of trial and error until I get it on the right spot, oh well, I don't have anything planned for tomorrow anyway...
 
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Why not just pull the key and put the flywheel where you need it? The nut and taper should keep it there.

I tried the " no key" method and it didn't hold. The saw has a lot of compression and after pulling the rope several times trying to get it to start the flywheel turned on the crank so I think I'm gonna have to use a key. I put an ad in a local site for a parts saw and got an answer so I'm waiting to see what I can come up with there.
 
If the crank and flywheel taper are both clean and grease free and the nut is tightened to the correct torque it should hold. The key is soft and is only there to position the flywheel not to transmit torque although it will obviously put up some sort of fight before shearing.
 
If the crank and flywheel taper are both clean and grease free and the nut is tightened to the correct torque it should hold. The key is soft and is only there to position the flywheel not to transmit torque although it will obviously put up some sort of fight before shearing.

The key wasn't soft on this one! Fairly big key also. You might be right about the grease part but I had the nut tight and it did take several pulls before it came loose. I feel a little more comfortable putting a key in it.
 
Why not run a CS-602 flywheel? They should be easy enough to find...Bob

That was an option I'm considering. I think a 701, 702, 601 or 602 would work as long as it's a point ignition (VL). I'm gonna try a couple of places tomorrow. Nobody around here seem to be parting these saws out. I had one last year but ended up selling it, wish I hadn't now.
 
Does anyone know what module might work best for a McCulloch 740? Any part number would be great. Should be able to source at Napa. Mine seems to studder right now and I'm thinking this might be the culprit. Looks like it might be the crappy one as mentioned before with the lines in it.?? I'd rather not have to mess with timing adjustments
 

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Does anyone know what module might work best for a McCulloch 740? Any part number would be great. Should be able to source at Napa. Mine seems to studder right now and I'm thinking this might be the culprit. Looks like it might be the crappy one as mentioned before with the lines in it.?? I'd rather not have to mess with timing adjustments
Although I have no personal experience, I have read /understand that a number of Mac saws do not respond well to conversion to chip/module ignition mods other members more into Mac's could possibly advise
 
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