Bar Damage - You be the Judge

[Whiskers]

You might be glad you didn't, but we'll see how it works out in the end. As you know, long bars for the 084 don't exactly grow on trees. I'll dress it up in the next couple days and see if I can get it respectable. It's actually a really nice bar minus the damage around the tip, it's odd the rest of it doesn't have much sign of wear at all.

 

[w8ye]

That bar has been welded up and ground down before. Some of the damage, or wear you see, is where they kept the weld bead to the outside and ground it down smooth on the outside and the top of the rail. They didn't have a means to do the slot so you can see the weld bead towards the slot.

 

[jus2fat]

That bar has been welded up and ground down before. Some of the damage, or wear you see, is where they kept the weld bead to the outside and ground it down smooth on the outside and the top of the rail. They didn't have a means to do the slot so you can see the weld bead towards the slot.

Well Now...this should get REAL interesting..!!!

Again..No WAY...I'd use that bar..!! - Especially for milling..!! - Just send it back..please..!!

You start filing and tampering with it...You Own It..!!

J2F

 

[w8ye]

This is how Rich fixes them

The chainsaw guy LONG SAW BAR REPAIR 10 13 - YouTube

 

[LegDeLimber]

Yeah, interesting "crop" on that photo.

 

[Whiskers]

I shot the seller an email to see what his thoughts were on the situation. I wish I had all the tools to just weld it up and fix it, but unfortunately I don't.

 

[madhatte]

If you clamp your mill inboard of the nose, the rough part won't affect much at all. The part of the bar on a mill outboard of the clamp is just carrying the chain around the corner and isn't loaded at all except for whatever chips it may be clearing. I'd say this is a pretty OK deal for your purposes, so long as the rails are straight and the grooves clean elsewhere on the bar. Now, if you were falling, and might need to swing something big, I'd have a worry about that nose. Part of swinging is letting the tree set down on the bar. I'm guessing this one has seen that trick a few times.

 

[Sapo_feo]

I don't know what options you have in the mid-west, but out here you can get your bar rails rebuilt with new tip for around $60, unless you need it straightened, that adds a few bucks. Even adding to your purchase price it would still be a better deal than buying a new bar. Personally, I will keep having my old bars redone. The few new bars I've purchased haven't been very high quality.

 

[Arrowhead]

Personally, I don't see a major issue, I'd run it with no fear.

Or, if you want, send it to me and I'll clean it up on the Bar Shop machine and return it. (no charge)
Maybe the seller will give you a little back if you decide to ship it.

 

[pops21]

Ed, that is a heck of a offer. You ROCK.

 

[Metals406]

Use a torch or a TIG with cobalt based filler and fix it up. If you don't have one, take it to a welding shop (order the filler and take some with you). I'd be shocked if that little TIG area cost you more than $20. It's such a small area, a competent fabber would zip that up in 10 or less.

That bar is worth a **** ton more than $63.00 -- and all bars seem to wear the worst at the tip/rail mating area.

You can clean the groove yourself with a .045/.050 cutoff wheel. Go slow, take your time, and measure, measure, measure.

Or have it welded and take Ed up on his awesome offer and let him dress and groove it.

 

[056kid]

Really, its a non issue. Chainsaws are rough, though, expendnable tools. Can any of you even hash out what damage will actually occure if that bar is used? Bet money that notta dang thing would happen other than making it a little easier to throw a chain. In milling that'll never happen... Or are you just sure that the rail is not supposed to look like that theirfore it is BAD, and it won't work, deffinately not good enough for you! I kind of get sick and tired of the #####ing about trivial things like this. That bar was 3 times what you payed and your in a tissy because it threw a chain. I bet you would decline the transaction if you saw how the chain was likely put back on lmao, it involves bending!!

 

[7sleeper]

I have to agree with others here that the damage is minimal in my eyes. You bought a used item not anything brand new. Of course the fellow didn't tell or didn't know any better but still if the grove is deep enough it is a easy fix. Even if you don't fix it you will never notice anything in a stationary setting(i.e. milling), even in a dynamic setting (i.e. felling, bucking, etc.) I doubt any problem will occur.

7

 

[Justsaws]

$68 for the bar and told me rails were great shape. Which I would consider a pretty sweet deal, but not if its going to tear up 84 inches of brand new chain

Do you have a replacement tip for it? If not you should start looking for one to have handy. Keep an eye on the damaged area while you are using it to make sure it is holding up. I would not do much grinding or filing until I had a new tip to compare.

The damaged area being on top of the bar will take a hammering(chipping/cracking) as the chain expands and back ups over the tip. That is why Oregon newer single rivit tip is longer. The style of tip that is on that bar seperate about exactly where the hammering takes place. Put the damaged area on the bottom of the bar and it will spread,

 

[SawTroll]

Here's the original ebay listing...I'm not trying to call the seller out in any way, he actually seemed like a great guy. I guess we just had a different interpretation of what good rails look like. The listing mentioned that bad tip, that's why I asked about the rails. In asking about the rails in my mind that would include anything from tip to tail that wasn't part of the replaceable tip.
......

You are right, the damage is in the front parts of the rails.
Contact the seller, and ask for a refund, as he has been misrepresenting the bar, by stating the rail are in great shape.

 

[T0RN4D0]

Its not so bad imo and i would use it.

The seller is a sneaky fox tho, taking the picture of the bar without the nose part and with a chain installed.

 

[Whiskers]

Thanks for all the responses, and Arrowhead for the offer. Now I've got all my options to proceed forward. I'll also wait to see what the seller has to say.

As for comments like this...I'm not necessarily concerned about the bar, I just don't know what I don't know about the damage, so I figured I'd ask.

Really, its a non issue. Chainsaws are rough, though, expendnable tools. Can any of you even hash out what damage will actually occure if that bar is used? Bet money that notta dang thing would happen other than making it a little easier to throw a chain. In milling that'll never happen... Or are you just sure that the rail is not supposed to look like that theirfore it is BAD, and it won't work, deffinately not good enough for you! I kind of get sick and tired of the #####ing about trivial things like this. That bar was 3 times what you payed and your in a tissy because it threw a chain. I bet you would decline the transaction if you saw how the chain was likely put back on lmao, it involves bending!!

Thanks again.

 

[Whiskers]

One last question...The seller advertised the bar as a Cannon, but I don't see any markings on the bar whatsoever. Is there a way to positively identify the bar? I'm sure cannon wasn't the only long bar maker using the oregon 3 rivet tips. I suppose the markings could be under the primer, but I would still think I could see an outline of them.

Thanks
Lee

 

[Sapo_feo]

The brand and model number are etched about 4" up from mount end of the bar on mine. It has been primered and I have no trouble reading them.

 

[Arrowhead]

If it is a Cannon, it will say it on the bar. I'd confirm this before you contact the seller.