Bar Damage - You be the Judge

[Whiskers]

I checked the bar over, and I don't see any markings on it at all...No serial #'s or manufacturer. The whole bar is smooth primer.

 

[jeepyfz450]

My 50'' is a little beat up like yours and hasnt given me any trouble. Definately do what you think is right but for 68$ i would keep it. like others have said i would buy it for that.

 

[watsonr]

It has a cannon tip and a lot of my bars are not marked as you say yours isn't.. from experience, it looks like a cannon bar to me.

 

[Cantdog]

It has a cannon tip and a lot of my bars are not marked as you say yours isn't.. from experience, it looks like a cannon bar to me.

I have a couple of those old bars...I think mine are all marked Oregon....probably made for them by Cannon back then......I'm not even sure you can get new tips for those...maybe try Mardsens....not a modern tip as far as I know....that alone may have a lot more more sway over what you go with it than the rail damage.... especially for milling purposes. I'll try to get some pics when I get back to the shop and get them up tonught.

 

[Whiskers]

Yeah, I realize the tip is a bit difficult to come by, but they popup on ebay and chainsawr now and again, so I should be able to come up with a few. I've actually got another .404 that's in pretty good shape already.

 

[srcarr52]

If you'll pay post both ways (or get the bar here somehow) I can fix that bar for ya for the cost of the material I put in it. I'll weld up the first couple inches with Stellite alloy 6 (cobalt/chromium alloy used on hard nose bars) and regrind the groove back in. I even have a .404 Oregon 3 rivet tip I've been hording and the right rivets to put it on. It shouldn't take long to fix that better than new.

Please don't try to grind it out because you'll end up way deep in the tip to get it out and greatly reduce the life of the bar.

 

[Cantdog]

Yeah, I realize the tip is a bit difficult to come by, but they popup on ebay and chainsawr now and again, so I should be able to come up with a few. I've actually got another .404 that's in pretty good shape already.

Good enough..as long as you're going in with your eyes open and know what to expect for availabliity.

Are your bearings loose in the tip?? Or it it just the rail damage on the tip that's an issue?

I use a large edge sander with a dedicated belt to square and shape my damaged bars but once a bar gets worn, been ground/filed a few times a new tip will have to be brought/ground down to the surrounding rail height.

If you know about the tip availability issue I think you did all right on the price......the damage can either be fixed by welding or worked around.....I would create a new, square surface for the chain to run on and go with it......probably that part of the bar won't see much wear from milling......no reason to expect a used bar to last as long as a new one at a third the price.

 

[056kid]

Don't do anything but locate a few extra tips. Welding will only weaken the bar and cost money just leave it alone and make boards. I have a 42" cannon myself, it has a few blemishes, but it makes a fine kerf. I wouldn't mind finding some tips though. Has your bar got a farely deep belly? That is one way I know of identifying cannons by. Then again it could be an old Oregon, still a good unit...

 

[Chris J.]

Copied from the listing: "the rails on the bar look nice as does the mount. there is some wear on the tip but the sprocket is free and would likely get quite a few miles out of it"

On the one hand--As others have mentioned, the seller didn't post a photo of the tip in question, and he put the chain on the bar. I see those as red flags. Whiskers, did the seller ever offer to and/or send a photo of the tip, and/or the damaged area? If not, that's another red flag.

On the other hand--The damage doesn't look that horribly bad, but something tells me that the stress from milling will eventually make it worse.

If you can live with the damage, choose the course that works best for you, and don't look back.

If you can't live with the damage, try to get a full refund with return shipping paid by the seller (he misrepresented the condition of the bar).

 

[Cantdog]

If you'll pay post both ways (or get the bar here somehow) I can fix that bar for ya for the cost of the material I put in it. I'll weld up the first couple inches with Stellite alloy 6 (cobalt/chromium alloy used on hard nose bars) and regrind the groove back in. I even have a .404 Oregon 3 rivet tip I've been hording and the right rivets to put it on. It shouldn't take long to fix that better than new.

Please don't try to grind it out because you'll end up way deep in the tip to get it out and greatly reduce the life of the bar.

That sounds like a pretty good deal for getting that back to near original condition.......

 

[Whiskers]

That sounds like a pretty good deal for getting that back to near original condition.......

I agree, did I mention there's some great people on this forum! Thanks again for all the help an replies.

 

[watsonr]

No matter the course you choose... 1 chain jump and your back to what you have... a used bar in usable condition with minor damage. For the effort and cost of repairs, your looking at new bar prices. When I buy used, I assume it's not perfect and expect that condition...period. Like new condition is a plus on used equipment.

Are you actually cutting with the tip? Or the area where they join? I saw someone mention to just not clamp the mill allowing that section not to be used... will that work?

Long bars are not cheap and hard to come by, I have a bunch of them (like more than 20 at or greater than 36") and a mark on the bar in that location doesn't even qualify for a second look in my shop.

GET A REFUND.... or.... USE THE BAR. It's not worth the cost+fix+shipping to make it perfect.

 

[user 64030]

You are right, the damage is in the front parts of the rails.
Contact the seller, and ask for a refund, as he has been misrepresenting the bar, by stating the rail are in great shape.

Copied from the listing: "the rails on the bar look nice as does the mount. there is some wear on the tip but the sprocket is free and would likely get quite a few miles out of it"
....

If you can live with the damage, choose the course that works best for you, and don't look back.

If you can't live with the damage, try to get a full refund with return shipping paid by the seller (he misrepresented the condition of the bar).

As others have said I believe that to be usable... the issue for is in how you view honest and integrity of the seller. Sawtroll & ChrisJ are right the seller misrepresented the item. What you decide to do about that is up to you.

I know I would be peeved, but it is not a bad price for a large mount Stihl (Baileys list a WoodlandPro @ $200).


and not to derail this thread but....

One thing I find odd on bars, when I bought a used Stihl ES, for pennies on the $, and checking online prices of comparable bars I figured I must have got a great deal. Baileys list 36" 3003 bars from $89-$250. I checked the OEM cost of the ES and the Stihl new cost was cheaper than the cheapest Bailey lists ($75 and no shipping). On here everyone raves about Stihl bars, and the ones I have "comped-shopped" Stihl has the better price (real odd I know). The most recent Bailey tied the dealer on a 24/25" 3003 at $62 for the Carlton bar.

I guess I mention this as to ask if you ever checked new Stihl cost for a bar you need? It is not like the 3002 mount is a NLA mount the ms880 still uses that mount.

The two bars I have priced averaged $2.28/in (maybe a dumb way to figure) but if that number held true for a 3002 mount the cost would be around $100 and no worries about rails...

dw

 

[tolman_paul]

While I'd personally be miffed at the item not being as described, what you paid for the bar and chain was a really good deal. Take one of the offers here to get the bar repaired for the cost of postage both ways and smile.

Either that or get a refund on the bar as the seller didn't properly represent it and get one of the 42" forester bars off of flea bay.

 

[timmcat]

If your plan is to use it in a mill why not get rid of the tip, grind the beat up section off and drill the bar for a stinger setup from granberg. The diameter of the bearing and sprocket idler on the stinger will easily keep the chain away from the bar where its beat up. Also the bearing on the granberg stinger is way longer lasting and not so dependant on your oiler getting oil out to it to keep it lubricated.

Or just get the seller to take it back, your choice.

 

[srcarr52]

Whiskers, I'm about done with your bar. I just need to drill the rivet holes in for the new tip and smack the rivets in it.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/213186.htm

 

[Whiskers]

Well, a big thanks to srcarr52! Here's the bar mounted up on my 084. If you'd like to see what was all done with it, check out the link above to the other thread started on the bar build.

1. The ebay seller who I purchased the bar from was a good guy, and made things right. I'm not promoting anyone's ebay business, I thought I'd mention it since there was quite a bit of discussion whether he was trying to hide something. Maybe he was, and maybe he wasn't, but he made it right and I wouldn't hesitate to purchase from him again.

2. The bar was an old oregon 3 rivet tip bar that has now been converted to a stihl 13 tooth tip. It was originally advertised as a cannon, but there aren't any marking on it. Is there anyway to tell for sure what it is? It's got a pretty fat belly on it which leads me to believe it's a cannon, but neither Shaun or I could make a definitive call.

Well, here' the pics. I'll get some better one's this weekend when I actually get to see the sun, these were taken in my dingy garage.

 

[Gologit]

Thanks for letting us know how this turned out.

 

[srcarr52]

The bar looks kind of small on that saw.

 

[Whiskers]

The bar looks kind of small on that saw.

Yeah, kinda funny how a bar shrinks hanging off a big powerhead, but the angle of the photos also aren't helping. On the bright side, there's plenty of bar there for anything I'm going to need it for.