Bar for Dolmar/Makita 6100

[bitsumishi]

Hi everyone, first post.

I'm probably getting a Dolmar/Makita 6100 which comes with a 20" bar, made I think by Oregon. (The 562xp and MS362 are about $700 more here).
The issue I have is that the nose sprocket on my smaller Stihl is always stuck with sand (very sandy soil)
I have seen a couple of comments/reviews which said that their 6100's throw chains. One said that he thought it was because the saw is high revving (13,000 rpm I think...not sure if that is high revs for a 60cc) and that he had to keep the chain very tight.
A Tsumura dealer said he thought a hard tip bar would throw a chain more easily, not having a sprocket.
I think I need to do something about a constantly stuck sprocket, but I don't want to make a saw which may or may not already tend to throw chains, even more likely to do so.
Would a hard tip bar be a good solution or not?
Anyone had their 6100's throwing chains from new?
Thanks.

 

[CoreyB]

I have never once thrown a chain on my 6100 and I use it every week. The bar mount is a k095 husky small mount. I have a 20" tsumara l&the on mine. I also have a cheap 24" forester bar with no problems. In fact I have never heard of anyone having any problems with the 6100.
If in very poor conditions get a cheap bar with a replaceable tip and go to town. There is a place that had gb bars for sale for cheap under $20 cheap.

 

[bitsumishi]

Thanks Corey.
With the Stihl, the sprocket hardly turns...it gets jammed real easily with sand. The only way I can get it moving is to dunk it in petrol a few times,then I can get it to spin. But as soon as I use it again, it gets stuck.
I guess the sand destroys the sprocket by abrasion, but do you think that making the saw trying to turn a jammed sprocket will be affecting the performance/strain on motor?

I think K095 solid tip bars are not easy to find (Tsumura dont do one), but if there isnt any greater risk of throwing chains with this saw, then perhaps its not a bad idea to get one?
Thanks.

 

[CoreyB]

I would guess you are burning through chains left and right I'd you are encountering enough sand to destroy tips.

 

[Treespotter]

What bar oil do you use? Empty the oil tank completely and start on Canola oil. My 6100 runs great with it. Canola isn't as sticky as other oils.

Wolter

 

[Franny K]

The hard nose if used in such a manner that more heat gets into the chain than with a sprocket nose bar then the chain will become looser and hence more likely to derail. I would think it is the contour and size of the tail and sprocket diameter and how close to the sprocket, rim in this case, the bar tail is that would be the factors to examine more than the saw make and model. It is my understanding the clutch drum with splines is supposed to be changed out every two rim sprockets, that of course assumes you do not switch pitches regularly, some sloppyness may show up if that recommendation is not followed.

 

[bitsumishi]

Bit of rock and a hard place, I think. I either risk damaging the saw with an always stuck sprocket, or I run a greater risk of throwing chains without a sprocket.
Safety first: I think I have to keep the sprocket.

10 years of this situation and the Stihl has never thrown a chain and is still running fine so I guess the saw manages to run quite well without a free spinning tip sprocket.

 

[Red Elm]

Are you greasing the bar nose sprocket?

 

[CR888]

Are you greasing the bar nose sprocket?

No grease hole on Stihl current Stihl bars. To the OP.....don't take everything you read on forum sites as gospel, your 6100 won't throw chains any more/less than any other saw. The 6100 is a great choice and the bar it comes with will have a grease hole. Keep your chain out of the sand and if conditions cannot avoid this consider a hard nose bar to compliment the stock bar. There is a reason hard nose bars exist, however unless you really need one they are not the best option for general use. Is the bark your cutting filled with sand?

 

[Red Elm]

CR888 is spot on. I cut black locust growing on sand alot. I don't grease the nose tip, turn the oiler up and keep the bar out of the sand, I have very little trouble.

 

[bitsumishi]

I do try to keep the bar out of the sand...trouble is if I only cut 3/4 through and turn the log over, there is probably sand on the underside of the log from it sitting on the ground.
No oiler adjustment on the MS250. I'm amazed that the chain turns at all when it's running.....takes several washes in petrol and many turns to get the nose sprocket to move freely.
I didnt know you could get a hard nose bar 'till recently, so the idea of changing the bar on the Stihl never occurred.

 

[bitsumishi]

Ordered the 6100 today, so thanks everyone.

 

[Franny K]

I am pretty sure a 7 tooth rim sprocket in 0.325 will fit on the 6100. That would have a smaller diameter than the 3/8 and basically the same size drive links but more per foot. Once you get a hard nose sprocket bar experimenting with that is a possibility.

 

[bitsumishi]

I am pretty sure a 7 tooth rim sprocket in 0.325 will fit on the 6100. That would have a smaller diameter than the 3/8 and basically the same size drive links but more per foot. Once you get a hard nose sprocket bar experimenting with that is a possibility.

Could you explain that a bit more. Isn't a hard nose bar and a sprocket bar two different things? And do more drive links mean more grip on the bar with a hard nose bar?

 

[Franny K]

A hard nose bar is not pitch specific. Essentially 9 drive links sticking in the slot in the same distance as 8, 0.325 vs 3/8. A smaller drive sprocket would have the drive links enter the slot earlier for the same tail to sprocket distance. The amount of difference in sprocket to bar tail as one drive link is added or removed will also follow the 9vs8 ratio.

 

[bitsumishi]

Being slow here. The benefit being.....?

 

[nnero]

The only time, our 6100 threw a chain was cutting brush/thorn trees. Had to replace the catcher and was able to save the chain. Show pics when you get it!

 

[bitsumishi]

Show pics when you get it!

It'll be blue.....no orange Dolmar in this country. In the US the orange seems to be about $100 cheaper than the blue, so I guess most have the orange. Looking at the Dolkita's on the shelf
in my 2 local stores....all covered in dust (smaller units than the 6100), almost hidden, relegated to the bottom shelf playing second fiddle to the highlight middle shelf given over to the worst 'chainsaw' brands you can think of; few seem to know what they are (including the store owners) and most buyers in these parts wouldn't want to be seen with a blue chainsaw!

 

[Franny K]

Being slow here. The benefit being.....?

Whether or not there is a benefit will take some experimentation. I can say 1/4" pitch chain derails the easiest I have come across.

 

[bitsumishi]

Whether or not there is a benefit will take some experimentation. I can say 1/4" pitch chain derails the easiest I have come across.

Ah, ok. thanks that's useful info.