bar length. your opions pls.

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The size bar (and ultimately the saw size) are determined by what you are cutting. The general rule of thumb that I use is that I need 3 cc's of displacement for every inch of bar. If you are cutting soft wood or using skip chain you can go with a longer bar.

Long bars tend to disrupt balance (even with heavy saws).
 
Simple answer

Shortest bar and chain set up I can get away with.

I have a multitude of bars and sprockets, several for every saw with the exception of the MS200T. Constantly swapping them out for the day's job at hand, maximizing the saw's potential.

Anyway, I freely admit to having a terminal case of BS disease, (Bar and Sprocket in this case).

Take Care
 
True, it depends mainly on the size of timber you're working with. A 50cc stock saw for example will handle a 20" bar and full chisel loop but that's about the max for it.

I've been running 18" bar on my 353 since I got it new and have no discouraging words. There again, the average tree on my lot is around 18" at the base. I wouldn't need a longer bar unless I was cutting elsewhere where the trees were larger. Or if I had to trim stumps down to grade.

And I've gotten used to it... bucking on the ground, I know when the bar nose is close to the ground. :)
 
BUT, while I have been waiting, I felled 7 more trees, one of which was a nice fat oak (30 inches across, used the 5020 for that one) and one sassafras only about 14 inches across. Then one black birch and four poplars which were about a foot across.

Sounds like you're establishing a rhythm with that 5020. I know it didn't take long for me, with one. I'd suggest that you keep an eye on the air filter seal, away from the clip, maybe add a smidge of silicone to keep the dust out. The OEM fuel line might go soft on you and release the filter, too. (Not a good idea to ingest unfiltered fuel.)

Meanwhile, I've gotten VERY fond of a RedMax GZ4000 (40 cc) w/16" bar. THE GoTo here. For sooooo many reasons. It's also a "strato." One reason for shorter bars- better control of the saw, to keep the bar away from yer pieces. A little back stiffness is much preferable to sliced shin/instep. Even with PPE.

Don't you love the lack of airborne nasties with a strato engine? And the ability to cut all day out in the boonies on a little 1-liter bottle of mix in your "day-bag"?
 
I cut one inch to 40 inch diameter here, so I run 14 to 36 inch bars. Just depends what I am cutting. I could get by with a 20 for everything though, and with that it would be on a 60 cc class saw most likely. A 60 will run a shorter bar like crazy, and run out to a 28 when needs be. I like that little extra oomph over 50s.
 
I got addectied to Ebay, Craisigslist, and Husky saws back of this and have way more than I need. The 20" sees more action than the rest when cutting fire wood. The 18" is best for limbing. Too long a bar makes it easier to crank it into the dirt when bucking. I like the multiple saw plan and useing the lightest saw possable to do the job, but never cut down both sides if you can grab a bigger saw and make it with one cut.
 
I used to use my 257 Husky with a 20" bar for firewood but I bought a 435 Husky with a 16" bar and that is all I have used this past year. The lighter the better especially when you have a bad back.
 
My ms361 currently wears a18" bar, cause that what it came with, the 260 I had a 15" bar and felt good. The 361 seems to like he longer bar but have considered a shorter one, but really can,t justify the expense of changing bars and the half dozen or soo loops I got with the saw.
 
"Uncle Ache", the 2171 usually wears a 20" or 24" b/c. I have a 28" b/c for the bigger stuff, I don't like cutting from both sides of a log. The cs400 wear a 14" b/c. I had tried a 12" b/c on it but kept breaking chains.?. The cs400 is in dire need of a MM!
 
For me when I'm cutting up or felling trees a 20" bar seems to handle most jobs.
I have a 32" bar for that saw for bigger trees.

I also have a small ms170 saw i like to limb with that has a 12" bar on it.
Limbs beyond 12" i use the bigger saw.

Nice to cut down and cut up trees with the big saw and nice to limb with the little saw.
Just the combo of saw and bar that works well for me.

IMO 20" bar can be used to limb, fell and cut most trees so i would vote it as the most useful size bar if you just had one to pick.
 
026-16" picco
038-18", 24" RSK
044-20", 32" RSK

Deepends on what size stuff I am cutting.
 
I dont cut with anything less than a 60cc saw time is money for me run at least a 20 on my 036 my 372,576 and 660 have 24" have up too a 48" for my 084. Being in the tree business i bring home some real ugly butt logs.
 
I have 3 bars for my 2 main saws.
18"
24"
30"

All sugiharas of the same pitch and gauge. My cs600p wears the 18" most of the time. My ms460 wears the 30" and they both share the 24"
 
Sounds like you're establishing a rhythm with that 5020. I know it didn't take long for me, with one. I'd suggest that you keep an eye on the air filter seal, away from the clip, maybe add a smidge of silicone to keep the dust out. The OEM fuel line might go soft on you and release the filter, too. (Not a good idea to ingest unfiltered fuel.)

Meanwhile, I've gotten VERY fond of a RedMax GZ4000 (40 cc) w/16" bar. THE GoTo here. For sooooo many reasons. It's also a "strato." One reason for shorter bars- better control of the saw, to keep the bar away from yer pieces. A little back stiffness is much preferable to sliced shin/instep. Even with PPE.

Don't you love the lack of airborne nasties with a strato engine? And the ability to cut all day out in the boonies on a little 1-liter bottle of mix in your "day-bag"?

Thanks for the tip on the 5020! Now if I could only come up with a system to start it. Sometimes it's a bear.

I know this is a stupid question, but what is a "Strato" I know I love how the 2050 runs when I've got it wide open, kind of like running on nitro. Is that something I should be looking for in other saws?

My back has been toast since my last motorcycle wreck so even if I were to use a 10" chainsaw, my back would still complain. So I give it something to really complain about using the 20". :msp_scared: As long as it's fairly well balanced, I'm good to go. :msp_biggrin:

Overkill is using a 115cc chainsaw with a 60 inch bar n chain (if there is such an animal) on a 6 inch sapling! But just think of the ground you could cover if you had a field of 6 inch sapplings! :msp_w00t: Not that I could even lift a chainsaw that big, but if I'm going to dream, I might as well dream big.
 
Thanks for the tip on the 5020! Now if I could only come up with a system to start it. Sometimes it's a bear.

I know this is a stupid question, but what is a "Strato" I know I love how the 2050 runs when I've got it wide open, kind of like running on nitro. Is that something I should be looking for in other saws?

My back has been toast since my last motorcycle wreck so even if I were to use a 10" chainsaw, my back would still complain. So I give it something to really complain about using the 20". :msp_scared: As long as it's fairly well balanced, I'm good to go. :msp_biggrin:

Overkill is using a 115cc chainsaw with a 60 inch bar n chain (if there is such an animal) on a 6 inch sapling! But just think of the ground you could cover if you had a field of 6 inch sapplings! :msp_w00t: Not that I could even lift a chainsaw that big, but if I'm going to dream, I might as well dream big.

Starting: I'd suggest pulling gently until engaged, then rip on that thing like your life depended on it, for a short stroke. Don't want to destroy the starter reel. Of course, thoroughly purge carb air first.

Strato (as commonly done):
background
: port openings are symmetric about bottom dead center. As things turn, exhaust opens, transfers open, transfers close, exhaust closes. So exhaust is open all the while the transfers are open, and in spite of mfgs best efforts, much incoming charge "short-circuits" right out the pipe. Nasty, waste of fuel. Makes engine waaaay out of emissions compliance, and tosses away around 35% of the fuel.
Strato engine: besides the usual air&fuel carb port, there are variably throttled air-only ports connected to the filter. As the piston approaches top dead center, cutaways in the sides of the piston skirt connect the air-only ports to the discharge end of the transfers. So, what'll come out first there (and may go out the exhaust) is air and no fuel/oil.

You'll see some of the mechanism involved if you look at an IPL (Illustrated Parts List) of a strato saw, and zoom in on the piston. Crystal clear in the IPL for RedMax GZ4000.

This "strato scavenging" greatly reduced HC and particulates (think carcinogens) emissions, and reduced fuel consumption. The improvement in air quality local to the saw is huge, such that I won't consider buying a non-strato 2-stroke. RedMax (div Komatsu Zenoah) developed it, Husqvarna bought RedMax from Komatsu, and later the EU folks strong-armed Husqy to license the technology to Stihl, or so one story goes.

Pardon any avoidable surplusage; I tried for the "just the facts" treatment. :laugh: Subject merits completeness.

Absent direct injection (into the chamber) it's THE way to control emissions without stupid factory modifications. Lots more stuff to fail with direct injection, which is not to claim diaphragm carbs are trivially simple. ;)

I yield the podium to any engineers involved in the process, to set us straight(er).
 
When I thin out the xmas tree plot my go to saw is a Poulan 2000 with a 14" bar.Great running saw for 6" and smaller softwood.Sometimes I use it too much on the bigger stuff since it is so light.My go to saw for general cutting is a Husky 350 w/16" 325 bar or a Poulan 3700 w/20" 3/8 bar.For cutting down virgin timber I use a ported 372 w/20" bar.When bucking up 20"-40" logs I use a 394 with 28" bar.IMO I have no use for an 18" bar for my cutting needs.It is either too big or just slightly too small.I love the Poulan 3700 because of the manual oiler as an extra to the auto oiler.
 
I have 3 bars for my 2 main saws.
18"
24"
30"

All sugiharas of the same pitch and gauge. My cs600p wears the 18" most of the time. My ms460 wears the 30" and they both share the 24"

What mount bars are those? Just wondering how you got to share them.
 
I use mostly a 28'' you don't have to bend over too far. Sometimes I even break out the 36'' all for fire wood. The tree service I work for uses 16'' 18'' 28'' and 36'' my fave is the 28'' big enough but not annoying on limbing. That's just what I am happy with but it really depends on what you cutting.:cheers:
 
What mount bars are those? Just wondering how you got to share them.

SV (large) mount.
I made adapters to allow me to run them on 8mm studs. Just take a 12mm nut and drill it out to 8mm in the center. Easy peasy.
 

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