Bar rail

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Try & measure it at the top & bottom of the groove. If it's slightly V shaped (dress the bar first then) close it up with a tool or shim it & use a hammer. If it's evenly worn go up to the appropriate chain guage (should have at least .005" clearance
 
Try & measure it at the top & bottom of the groove. If it's slightly V shaped (dress the bar first then) close it up with a tool or shim it & use a hammer. If it's evenly worn go up to the appropriate chain guage (should have at least .005" clearance
That is a wonderful reply however this is another what is best thread.

Might make a difference if it is laminated or machined. Best also might be to over narrow then adjust with dressed abrasive disc in a precice machine.
 
The .058 isn't as common in my area as the .050, but I still have a good bar that I buy the .058 for, rule that out first

Whereas over here, 0.050 is the uncommon one.
Never the less, because of rarity, if one did not know for certain a bar was 0.050, say picked it up secondhand and it was actually 0.058 to begin with, because 0.063 chain did not fit, one might assume the bar to be 0.050, simply because it is more commonly found?
 
Whereas over here, 0.050 is the uncommon one.
Never the less, because of rarity, if one did not know for certain a bar was 0.050, say picked it up secondhand and it was actually 0.058 to begin with, because 0.063 chain did not fit, one might assume the bar to be 0.050, simply because it is more commonly found?
I'm not sure I'm understanding...I'd rather run a .050 chain and have it be a little sloppy on a bar meant for .058 than the reverse.
 
I'm not sure I'm understanding...I'd rather run a .050 chain and have it be a little sloppy on a bar meant for .058 than the reverse.

Was not aimed at you specifically- I was just saying that if someone picked up a bar from somewhere, 0.063 didn't fit, so therefore it must be 0.050- but in actual fact the bar is grooved 0.058, but as that size is not common to the area, that particular gauge is not considered and it is thought the rails need closing.
 
Whereas over here, 0.050 is the uncommon one.
Never the less, because of (the) rarity (of 0.058 by you), if one did not know for certain a bar was 0.050, say (one) picked it up secondhand and it was actually 0.058, because 0.063 chain did not fit (in it), (is it possible that) one might assume the bar to be 0.050 (and not even check to see if it is 0.058), simply because (0.050 and 0.063 are) more commonly found?
@Stateline Sawer does that make it clearer? To answer @Bob Hedgecutter yes, that is how I used to check bars. I didn't even know the pitch/gauges for awhile, I thought it was normal that a smaller saw (a 445) would have smaller chain (.325) and a bigger saw (a 372) would have bigger chain (3/8). Once I learned more about saws I changed my ways, but the cheap Oregon ID card was one of the best darn investments I've made. It is probably the most useful cheap tool I've ever bought.
 
I like to ID bars from stampings/etchings from factory when available! I've seen some dangerous accidents- waiting- to- happen come through my hands from many incorrect bar/ chain combinations!
 
IMAG1432.jpg

The bar rail closer tool from Baileys is not "fire & forget"...you adjust, drag it down the bar, check, adjust, drag it down the bar, check...you get the idea. It does work and you can certainly return a bar to service using it properly. They will not make the bars like new, but will extend the life of a bar that would otherwise be difficult or too expensive to replace.

Mark
 
Or even better- a photo of the bar stampings that show it is 0.050 and not 0.058 gauge to start with.
No. Its .50 gauge. Specified on bar. .58 chain won't run through rails smoothly. Think I may do a little narrowing using a bench vise. Install chain on bar and use the vise, carefully.
 
No. Its .50 gauge. Specified on bar. .58 chain won't run through rails smoothly. Think I may do a little narrowing using a bench vise. Install chain on bar and use the vise, carefully.

Yep, that simplifies things if you can still read the bar stampings ;)
So you have the option of trying to close her legs a little, or considering it worn out and replacing her with a younger fitter model. :)
 
Hahaha! I read it right! Just making light! I love my old lady, she's the best! My saws are just saws!
I personally don't get to crazy about bars...they wear out eventually. Proper dress once and again, saw oiler working well, grease the nose...last a long time for most of our uses.
 
Yep, that simplifies things if you can still read the bar stampings ;)
So you have the option of trying to close her legs a little, or considering it worn out and replacing her with a younger fitter model. :)
You aren't talking about my old lady are you?!?
You read in to my reply what you wish- I was talking about bar rails- honest! I am sure @Woodslasher will be along presently to give you the simplified answer. ;)
Ha-ha, real funny. What Bob really said in the first post was to replace the bar if it’s too worn or if you want an excuse to get a new one, otherwise fix it. In his next post, he said he was afraid he’d gone a little too far and he needed his good buddy to bail him out.
 
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