Bar Size

[sno-man!]

I am running a 25inch on my 361 cutting all hardwood...no problems. I bought the bar for cutting slabwood at first but then started using it on 8ft logs and now will never go back.

 

[Brushwacker]

Hopefully this topic hasn't been:deadhorse:. But anyway,..I'm running a 20" bar on my new 361. Today a local forester and I were clear cutting a small patch of woods that was shading my garden, and he mentioned that my "big bar was robbing power from the saw".
So,.should I go with a 18" bar?? and what kind of power gain should I expect. I typically don't fall anything bigger than 22" or so.

Thanks in advance. :greenchainsaw:

Carl

20 inch is just about perfect in average firewood conditions here for an 361. IMO any thing shorter doesn't need a good 60 cc powerhead. Its some what like having a 1 ton truck to pull a small trailer that could be pulled with my Toyota 4 cylinder with no problem.
If your racing other saws I'm sure it would give a slight boost in power.
I prefer the reach advantage in most situations. Let the chainsaw save you some bending and walking in the brush.

 

[Vermonster]

To clarify, I'm cutting hardwood almost exclusively. Perhaps I'm pushing the saw a bit too much (impatience), as it does bog sometimes when it's buried.
But, I will say that when I handed/offered the forester the saw to try out, he was pleasantly surprised with the smoothness/anti-vibe as he (bucked) bore-cut a fallen maple and cut a cookie.

 

[iowawoodcutter]

When I had my 361 with a 20"(before I traded it in for a 460), I cut up a 52" white oak no problem. And it ran fantastic!! My buddy used his 056AV to get the remaining inches of the inside.

 

[Damo]

20" bar in good cond. on a 361... I'd leave well enough alone.

 

[SawTroll]

I would say that if a 16 inch bar was long enough to use on the majority of the wood you cut, then get the 16" and save the 20" bar for the occasional bigger wood.

Totally agree!

The rest of your post sure has some merit as well, but my main reason for using short bars more often are about handling and balance, not too often about power loss only - but it happens.......

 

[Zodiac45]

To clarify, I'm cutting hardwood almost exclusively. Perhaps I'm pushing the saw a bit too much (impatience), as it does bog sometimes when it's buried.
But, I will say that when I handed/offered the forester the saw to try out, he was pleasantly surprised with the smoothness/anti-vibe as he (bucked) bore-cut a fallen maple and cut a cookie.

It's an East Coast thing Greenmountainster.

The west coast guys are always going too use longer bars because they're cutting larger softwood exclusively. East coast hardwood (exclusively), your best off with an 18" max for that saw in my opinion. It will pull the 20" as you've experianced but it's pushing the envelope as you've also seen. You've already got the 20" so use it, but go easy and let the saw work. Keep your chains pin sharp too!

 

[BlackCatBone]

To clarify, I'm cutting hardwood almost exclusively. Perhaps I'm pushing the saw a bit too much (impatience), as it does bog sometimes when it's buried.
But, I will say that when I handed/offered the forester the saw to try out, he was pleasantly surprised with the smoothness/anti-vibe as he (bucked) bore-cut a fallen maple and cut a cookie.

I don't know how new your saw is, but maybe check your carb settings to make sure you're making max power. I run a 357xp with 20" all the time, and while an 18" is probably the ideal bar for that saw, it screams through ash, oak, hickory etc with the 20". Of the 361s I've ran, they feel just as strong and very capable of running 20" no problems.

 

[maccall]

remember he's probably running a 24" bar on a MS660.

Yeah, this is exactly the kind of excessive long bars usage we're talking about, my 066 has an 18"...

:greenchainsaw:

 

[GASoline71]

Out West we also run longer bars so as to not have to bend over as much when walkin' a big spar and limbing... havin' a 28" on an 044 is a perfect PNW "limbin'" saw... However most guys "limb" with whatever saw they fall a tree with. Be it an 044 or an 066...

Plus I'm 6' 5"... helps my already messed up back from not havin' to stoop...

Gary

 

[COLD_IRON]

Out West we also run longer bars so as to not have to bend over as much when walkin' a big spar and limbing... havin' a 28" on an 044 is a perfect PNW "limbin'" saw... However most guys "limb" with whatever saw they fall a tree with. Be it an 044 or an 066...

Plus I'm 6' 5"... helps my already messed up back from not havin' to stoop...

Gary

+1

Because of my back I only use a minimum of a 25 inch bar for reach. I actually did side by side tests with it as well running 2 MS 361's using a 20 and 25 inch bar. While the longer bar may be heavier, it causes less pain and fatigue to run over the course of a day.

I only use short bars now for small scale limbing and cutting brush/small trees etc (ie MS 180) so I can see the bar tip at all times.

 

[comp1911]

Depends on what you actually use it for......:greenchainsaw:

2152 with 18" 3/8 chain opcorn:

In hardwood too.

 

[sdaly]

I would have to believe you would lose some power just because of the extra resistance & weight of the longer b&c, even though you were cutting the same size log. In addition, the shorter b&c would get oiled better as well, giving you better lubrication & less heat & friction (resulting in a faster cut). I would say that if a 16 inch bar was long enough to use on the majority of the wood you cut, then get the 16" and save the 20" bar for the occasional bigger wood.

Thanks, that was what I was wondering. So if I relegate my 210 only to limbing and small bucking tasks then it sounds like I'd be better off getting a shorter b&c for it instead of leaving the 16" one on there.

 

[GASoline71]

What are you gonna do, put a 14" bar on it? The difference will not even be noticeable. Even on an MS210... the 16" bar is just fine. Unless you live in Norway...

Gary

 

[Vermonster]

Thank you fellers who recommended going with the 16" bar and chain. I bucked up a 22" dbh black cherry this morning with the 16" RSC. What a big difference in chain speed and power compared to the 20" bar+chain!!

I'll be working it through some smaller dia maple this afternoon in preparation for a firewood sale this coming fall.

Thanks again!! :greenchainsaw:

 

[Fuzly]

Fun, ain't it?

 

[SawTroll]

Thank you fellers who recommended going with the 16" bar and chain. I bucked up a 22" dbh black cherry this morning with the 16" RSC. What a big difference in chain speed and power compared to the 20" bar+chain!!

I'll be working it through some smaller dia maple this afternoon in preparation for a firewood sale this coming fall.

Thanks again!! :greenchainsaw:

Did you copy that, Gary???
:biggrinbounce2:

 

[2000ssm6]

A 16" bar on a 361???:jawdrop: :jawdrop:

Get a 16" for your 350 and use that as a quick limber, 16" on a 361 is crazy, get a smaller powerhead for the smaller bar! The 361 deserves a 20", no shorter.

 

[SawTroll]

A 16" bar on a 361???:jawdrop: :jawdrop:

Get a 16" for your 350 and use that as a quick limber, 16" on a 361 is crazy, get a smaller powerhead for the smaller bar! The 361 deserves a 20", no shorter.

Nope, try a 361 with a short bar and 8-pin!

For felling, the balance is right with an 18" - 20" is definitly tip heavy.

 

[2000ssm6]

Nope, try a 361 with a short bar and 8-pin!

For felling, the balance is right with an 18" - 20" is definitly tip heavy.

Hell, I run 20" full comp 8 pin, balances fine to me. If a 16" is needed, I grab the 026....much faster at zipping off limbs than the 361.