Bars?

[PA Plumber]

Howdy,
The pitting (flaking) along the bar or tip rail usually occurs because the rail has gotten a raised lip from wear. If the lip isn't dressed back to square, due to hardness, any impact will usually cause a flake or chip to occur.
Gregg

Thanks for the follow-up.

This bar has a total of about 4 truckloads of Eastern Hemlock on it.

I believe this flake showed up approx. 1/2 way through.
That's only about 6,000 board feet.

I am glad it's on the nose. I looked over the rest of the bar yesterday, and it looks fine.

 

[SawTroll]

Howdy,
The pitting (flaking) along the bar or tip rail usually occurs because the rail has gotten a raised lip from wear. If the lip isn't dressed back to square, due to hardness, any impact will usually cause a flake or chip to occur.
Gregg

:agree2:

I probably overdo using a raker file to keep those lips/edges away, but it is much better than not doing it anyway - looks like it keeps the need for a redress away as well......

 

[alderman]

Oregon bars

I've got mostly Oregon bars. A couple of Husqvarna and a couple of Shindaiwa branded, which I believe to be Oregon bars also. I am able to pick up the Oregon Pro-lite bars cheaply--these don't have a replaceable tip but for the money invested in them, they are a throw away item anyway. No complaints so far from a Homeowner user probably cutting more than the average guy.
I did have a tip on a bar that came on a used saw bind up, but I'm thinking it just had something jammed in it.

 

[Taxmantoo]

I guess there was only one pic.

You can see a pit on the 12 O'Clock of the nose.

Looks like you've got a matched set of those, top and bottom.
Is that where the chain smacks the bar as it comes off the sprocket?
(when the bar is flipped so the pit is on the bottom)

Anyone ever tried "forester Pro series" I see selling on ebay??? Ive never tried that brand, the seller says its great but that doesnt mean much to me

I haven't tried them. Amick's sells them too:
http://www.amickssuperstore.com/category_s/149.htm

 

[PA Plumber]

Looks like you've got a matched set of those, top and bottom.
Is that where the chain smacks the bar as it comes off the sprocket?
(when the bar is flipped so the pit is on the bottom)



I haven't tried them. Amick's sells them too:
http://www.amickssuperstore.com/category_s/149.htm

Good eye. I just went out to check. Sure enough, the "bottom" of the bar has something similar just starting.

Both "chips/flakes" are on the same side of the bar. The other side has no issues.

 

[windthrown]

I prefer GB Pro Top or Ti and Stihl ES bars. Solid bars are better than laminate bars. I have had Oregon bars delaminate on me near the tips. They were pretty well used though.

No pits on any of my GB bar tips. Saw some of those flakes and chips happen on some of my Stihl Picco bars, in a similar place just to the power head side of the sprockets. They are Stihl E types. I will have to look and watch for bar wear there... read and learn on AS!

 

[SawTroll]

Never had an issue with a decent quality laminated bar, but then I don't use them as a pry-bar.........

 

[PA Plumber]

Never had an issue with a decent quality laminated bar, but then I don't use them as a pry-bar.........

Ohhh, I thought it was part of the falling technique to "tip" a 90' hemlock over with the chainsaw bar. I only do this when the DBH is at least 26" and I have three wedges stacked on both sides of the hinge.

 

[Jack Russell]

The Best Bar

The bar that I started using three years ago was the Sugihara bar. The bar became my favorite. I have the 16" 20" 25" bar on my Stihls and Husqvarna saws. Dollar for dollar the bar is the cheapest in the long run.

There is a Sugihara Bar outlet on eBay that is giving away the bars. I had friend that sold the bars. I know what the bar cost him.

If you want to use the best bar made on your saw use the Sugihara

J R :greenchainsaw:

 

[GrizzlyAdams86]

[/QUOTE]

Anyone ever tried "forester Pro series" I see selling on ebay??? Ive never tried that brand, the seller says its great but that doesnt mean much to me

One of the saw dealers around here sells these bars besides OEM bars, Oregon and Total bars. He said that they hold up well from what he's heard from people that use them. My friend bought one of one of his saws but he's only used it a few times but so far he likes it. I however have only bought 1 *new* bar for any of my saws and that was a OEM Husky bar for my 137. All of my other saws ether came with or have used Oregon bars. Otherwise the only other bar I've bought was a well used but serviceable Oregon that came with a pair of L65 parts saws I got.

Husqvarna: 137, 61 (in pieces-yet), L65, 288xp, 2100CD
McCulloch: Mac 2-10 (won't stay running-rainy day project)

 

[jburlingham]

Any word on the woodland Pro bars? they seem pretty pricey, but that doesn't always mean good. I would be interested in trying one, but Im not about to put that much into a bar unless it has a good rep. Any one try them?

 

[Cedarkerf]

Any word on the woodland Pro bars? they seem pretty pricey, but that doesn't always mean good. I would be interested in trying one, but Im not about to put that much into a bar unless it has a good rep. Any one try them?

Made by Cannon they are excellant bars.

 

[Cletuspsc]

Any word on the woodland Pro bars? they seem pretty pricey, but that doesn't always mean good. I would be interested in trying one, but Im not about to put that much into a bar unless it has a good rep. Any one try them?

They are Cannon made bars with a different name painted on them. I have 2 of em in 20" lengths and they are the nicest bars i have ever run. but for the most part i run windsor bars mostly cause i never like the single rivit nose on oregons. sthil bars are nice but for the price ya might as well buy a cannon. i also like GB bars and carlton but only cause they are cheep as dirt and i dont mind when they get trashed.

 

[Jack Russell]

Hi end bars and low end bars

The cannon is a good bar,so are other bar's and there is the cheap bar. This we all know.

I came in contact with a dealer that sold the Sugihara bar in 2006. This bar was one I had never seen before. I started a thread asking members if they had used the bar, are was using a bar called Sugihara. The reply were positive. I purchased the bar and it proved that it was not second to any bar. It cost a little more in dollars But you get a first class bar.

There is a thread (11-10-08 ) Sugihara Bar. You can read members opinion that are using the bar now.

JR

 

[logbutcher]

Don't mean to highjack the "what bar" thread ( yes I did mean to ), but:
how to avoid the roller freezing up in 10F or below when it dips into snow ?
Damn, I had to pull it off the sawn to warm it to free it next to Mr. Goodbody
( the warm part since you asked ). Serious problem in the cold and snow. Is it oil too thick? ( No, "which oil" please. )

 

[SawTroll]

Made by Cannon they are excellent bars.

Way to heavy to be interesting at all, with the possible exception of milling........

 

[Jack Russell]

Highjack

Don't mean to highjack the "what bar" thread ( yes I did mean to ), but:
how to avoid the roller freezing up in 10F or below when it dips into snow ?
Damn, I had to pull it off the sawn to warm it to free it next to Mr. Goodbody
( the warm part since you asked ). Serious problem in the cold and snow. Is it oil too thick? ( No, "which oil" please. )

With a problem like that you need to use 5w20 motor oil. Works GREAT

Jack
:spam:

 

[VINIFIREWOOD]

Just a little info on the Forester Pro bars. Ahlborn Equipment Inc. out of Sayner WI makes these bars and if your intersted in buy them, check with them direct before ebay. I called about one I saw on ebay and buying direct it was almost half the buy it now price, and alot cheaper shipping too.