Beginner shop welder?

[ccronin]

Hey guys, I want to get a welder for around the shop repairs and simple fabrication. I arc welded in High School 35 years ago but I might as well say I have never welded. I am looking for some recommendations. I have about 800 or 1000 dollars to spend.

Thanks

 

[fwgsaw]

Hey guys, I want to get a welder for around the shop repairs and simple fabrication. I arc welded in High School 35 years ago but I might as well say I have never welded. I am looking for some recommendations. I have about 800 or 1000 dollars to spend.

Thanks

You looking for used or new?

 

[ccronin]

I am pretty open. I just really don't know what to choose.

 

[fwgsaw]

I am pretty open. I just really don't know what to choose.

Really depends on what your going to weld. If it's light metal and nothing to serious I would find an older Lincoln sp100 there great little machines and they run smoothly. If your planning on building bumpers or flat beds I would jump up to a miller 210 or 212.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Re-Learn on not a MIG if you want to be a decent weldor.

 

[fwgsaw]

Re-Learn on not a MIG if you want to be a decent weldor.

Fill me in I never have understood this? I welded both ways and welding is welding. Personally I think it's easier to learn on a MIG then try arc welding least that way you understand the concept of keeping a consistent puddle. I've found beginning welders have a really hard time learning speed and depth while welding where as a MIG all you really have to do is watch there speed vs arc welding your arc gap is constantly changing.

 

[Woos31]

I agree, a MIG machine will spoil you for sure even though I presume it will more than handle any of your welding needs. I like stick because it keeps you in shape so to speak of welding cuz it's not a point and shoot affair, my analogy for this day and age is like being able to drive a manual transmission. Probably not so for the general age of AS members, but recently graduated from high school age folks and sadly even in rural towns have no clue..............drives me crazy! A few hours practice and you'll be back on the bike burnin Rod just dandy

 

[Sleepy]

I bought a little Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC machine several years ago and it's done everything I ever needed. I used the AC Lincolns in high school and this machine is far ahead of those, just because of being able to weld with DC. It's just so much smoother.
If I welded all the time I would want a higher duty cycle, but for what I need, it works great.
I highly recommend getting an auto darkening helmet, for whatever welder you get.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

All I've had for the last several years is a stick welder. Started out with a Lincoln 225 /AC welder, for the last 15 years I've had a Hobart AC/DC welder of about the same amperage. I've never tried a Mig welder, I would like to try a TIG sometime but it would be too expensive to buy one now.. I do have a carbon arc kit for my welder so I can braze with it.

 

[Justsaws]

Personally for a general purpose welder I would much prefer a mig welder. Be patient and shop around for something like a Hobart 190 or 210 if you want to be able to plug and play with a spool gun for alum or stainless. Not a fan of Lincolns spool gun or pricing locally. Most of my mig experience has been using Hobart welders, not meant to be an endorcement of the brand beyond being what I am somewhat familiar with.

Between flux core, solid wire and a spool gun it does everything I wanted to do. If you go with an arc welder spend the money and get an AC/DC capable one. I use an older Century, the Lincolns and Hobarts are in most ways nicer.

The one thing that the arc has over the mig is carbon rod capability another could be maybe plug and play tig setups if you are ready to go that route. Carbon rods I get, tig I do not, that is voodoo for later. Seems to be pricey voodoo as well, every time I think about tig I price materials and change my mind.

Mig welding was the cheapest cost for my mild steel general purpose welding after machine cost. Arc was the cheapest machine cost. In terms of ease of use hands down mig.

If you go with an arc setup, look into ways to store the rods that keep them dry and clean. Nothing ruins an arc welding project faster than trying to use compromised rods. Look up rod ovens, storage, containers, etc.

Never used a Miller arc welder however the few Miller mig welders were very nice. Never used any of the Harbor Freight welders however the couple folks that I know that have them seem pleased. Biggest downside would be ease of parts sourcing for the actual welder, the consumables are right there with the welders. Mig wire works fine as do the tips and noozles.

Lots of welder owners on this site so hopefully others will chime in. I would recommend considering all the types of projects you want and might want to do and buying the welder that exceeds those needs, otherwise you will probably end up owning at least two.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I mention re-learn on not a MIG because a person can easily make MG "welds" but not really have an understanding of the process.
I dunno if that makes sense.

We normally use stick and 7018 Excalibur rod for equipment welding. I have a 175 Lincoln MIG and 225 Miller TIG, also have a 210 Miller MIG in the shop, Lincoln "gravestove", and a couple small engine drive Lincoln and a Miller.

Anither we use is a friend's, its a big boy, old school, 500amp rated Lincoln, Detroit diesel powered.

 

[Sleepy]

I recently had a new bottom put in the bucket on my front end loader at a professional welding shop. After I had gotten it home and put back on, I noticed that about 20" of weld on one side wasn't even tied to the cutting edge. There was a beautiful weld all the way across there, it just didn't meet the cutting edge. Rather than take it off and go back to the shop, I used my Miller and finished the job myself, that I had just paid big $$'s to have done. I've never used a mig or tig but the comments above, made me think of this. You've got to closely watch your work with a stick machine, and this guy clearly wasn't.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I recently had a new bottom put in the bucket on my front end loader at a professional welding shop. After I had gotten it home and put back on, I noticed that about 20" of weld on one side wasn't even tied to the cutting edge. There was a beautiful weld all the way across there, it just didn't meet the cutting edge. Rather than take it off and go back to the shop, I used my Miller and finished the job myself, that I had just paid big $$'s to have done. I've never used a mig or tig but the comments above, made me think of this. You've got to closely watch your work with a stick machine, and this guy clearly wasn't.

He probably had trouble seeing what he was doing. Lots of weldors have eye problems. I quit doing very much welding before it happened to me..

 

[Sleepy]

He probably had trouble seeing what he was doing. Lots of weldors have eye problems. I quit doing very much welding before it happened to me..

Might have been that. Anyway, I could have inserted a sheet of paper between the new bottom and the cutting edge.
I surely didn't want to leave it like that.

 

[Cantdog]

I learned stick welding 40 years ago....and weld quite frequently, though not as an occupation, so these is just my own personal opinions/observations as a part timer. What type of work you are looking to do will be the judge of whether you go stick or MIG/TIG wire feed. If you are going to be fixing rusty, old, heavy iron items or fabricating with 3/8" plate and up, I would definitely go with an AC/DC DC NEG stick welder in Miller, Hobart or Lincoln.......my personal preference is the Lincoln. If you are working in lighter thickness metals and/or mostly new materials I would suggest a wire feeder.......again, in one of the above brands.....look for one with variable wire feed speed and with variable amperage if possible or at least the most number of amperage settings you can find.....the more amperage settings the more $$$, but this will aid you greatly in getting the right feed and heat for many different materials/thicknesses........well worth the extra $$$.

In the world of welders, perhaps more than many other things...you get what you pay for.....and your work will be smoother, stronger and prettier the better machine you use on the average. It is possible for an expert to get good results on a lesser machine......but if you are just revisiting you will have better results with a new good quality rig. Your $800.00-$1,000.00 should get you a real nice grid-tie machine in either stick or wire feed......expect to double that or more if you want a portable gas or diesel powered unit.

 

[Sepia]

I have to suggest a medium sized MIG machine for a few reasons. Like many have said here, it is much easier to re-acquaint yourself with MIG over stick. It will weld anything up to 1/4" with a single pass, plus weld very light guage metal if you are careful. The biggest bonus of using MIG for me is the cleanliness of the process. There is no slag to chip/brush off, and no mess to clean up. The biggest disavantage with MIG is you need to be in a controlled environment. You can't weld with MIG if there is any wind at all, as it will blow away your shielding gasses (unless you are using flux wire). And then there is the shielding gas you need to purchase occasionally for a MIG welder. So basically, if you are welding in your driveway, go with a good ac/dc stick welder, but if you weld strictly indoors, the MIG is very nice. Also, with a MIG machine, you can usually connect a TIG head, and also a spool gun for welding aluminum, if you want to expand your skills down the road.

A last word of advice: don't skimp on your welder. Get a good name brand and do your research before purchasing a specific welder. I have a 200A Miller and it has worked great for decades, but there are many good machines out there. Just avoid the 120V baby MIGs - you will quickly find they aren't up to the task if you do any fabricating at all.

 

[heimannm]

I have one of the little Lincoln wire feed units and .035" flux core wire. For simple repairs around the home, shop, yard it is fully adequate, but even for my snow blower project, it was not really an ideal machine. As noted above, for repairs on heavier/old/painted/rusty material a stick welder will be a lot more useful. For a few light repairs the simple little mig units are O.K. and are quick and easy if you use flux core wire. You need to be using your rig quite a bit to justify the added expense of a gas shielded mig unit.

A hearty second to the self darkening welding helmet, spend your first $150 or so on a good helmet with a large self darkening lens and whatever you do after that will be much easier.

The aforementioned snow blower required a good bit of welding on dirty, rusty old material with often poor fit ups. Let's just say that I spent about three minutes of grinding, smoothing, polishing for every minute I spent welding. A bit more prep time would have changed the equation but of course I was anxious to get things stuck together quickly...







Mark

 

[cus_deluxe]

For $800 you could go get a brand new buzzbox type arc welder and a nice used mig welder. I paid $300 for a nice lincoln sp125+ ( +means it can use shielding gas i think). Its been a great unit for what i do, though someday soon i want something with a little more power. As said above its all about what ur gonna do with it.

 

[stevetheboatguy]

Mig, tig or stick all have their advantages and disadvantages.
I tig mostly because I get into alot of stainless and aluminium at the shop. It is what I am used to doing the most.
That said. When it comes to anything thicker than 3/8. Stick or mig are the way to go. Yes I can tig that thick no problem. But it's more passes and more heat. Stick is nice for penetration and keeps your hands further away. Lots of sparks and splatter depending on your rod choice.
I decided to go with a hobart 230 iron man for home. It is a 250A mig. I have been using it with .035 flux core for smaller stuff and .063 dual shield for larger things. I couldn't be happier. No stopping to change rods, no having to heat the moisture out of a old tube of rods that someone left open. Just a very simple unit.

Just remember the weld is only as good as the person making it regardless of type of welder used. Proper setup practice practice practice and you won't have any issues.

Steven

 

[Cantdog]

I have one of the little Lincoln wire feed units and .035" flux core wire. For simple repairs around the home, shop, yard it is fully adequate, but even for my snow blower project, it was not really an ideal machine. As noted above, for repairs on heavier/old/painted/rusty material a stick welder will be a lot more useful. For a few light repairs the simple little mig units are O.K. and are quick and easy if you use flux core wire. You need to be using your rig quite a bit to justify the added expense of a gas shielded mig unit.

A hearty second to the self darkening welding helmet, spend your first $150 or so on a good helmet with a large self darkening lens and whatever you do after that will be much easier.

The aforementioned snow blower required a good bit of welding on dirty, rusty old material with often poor fit ups. Let's just say that I spent about three minutes of grinding, smoothing, polishing for every minute I spent welding. A bit more prep time would have changed the equation but of course I was anxious to get things stuck together quickly...

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Mark

Nice looking rebuild/refit Mark!!!