Best felling/splitting axe crosscut saw questions

[harms]

Bear with me as this is my first post. I did some searches and was not satisfied.

I would like to know what the preffered currently made felling axe and the preferred splitting axe/maul is today.

Also is there anyone currently making two/one man crosscut felling/bucking saws today?

I just moved from Alaska I would like to start cutting wood the old way.

thanks for any advice

 

[ShaneLogs]

When looking for a axe, Try many out to see which one best suits your needs. Try Fiskars, They have awesome axes and have lifetime warranties :msp_smile:

 

[Steve NW WI]

Gransfors Bruks, Snow & Nealley and others make axes that are top of the line, just don't expect to get them cheap.

For splitting, it's almost impossible to beat a Fiskars X-27.

Can't help you with the saws, other than to suggest that maybe refurbishing an old one would be a good option.

 

[Mac88]

Welcome to AS.
I can't offer much help with your request. I'm all about using machinery. But some of these folks
are into manual labor, so they should be able to help you out.

 

[harms]

Steve
Can you suggest a place to check out axes in NW WI? I live less than 20 miles form Hayward.
Thanks

Mac
I know I am little odd but I don't have a physical job so I like to work when I get home. I also like the sound of an axe vs a chainsaw.

 

[Steve NW WI]

I got a PM from harms, he's having trouble posting replies. He's looking for somewhere around the Hayward WI area that sells high quality stuff like he's looking for.

I wasn't much help, but maybe others can.

 

[ponyexpress976]

There may be better splitting axes out there but they'll never be able to match the x27 from Fiskars when it comes to function and price. I'd suggest watching some timbersports on youtube and look at those sponsors/competitors for a good crosscut saw. I totally understand wanting to get back to simpler ways...but in this case the internet may be your only hope.

 

[Dalmatian90]

Snow & Nealley

S&N is out of business (and reading online, they had serious quality control issues the last few years of operations -- depending which Chinese foundry got each order.)

Council Tool is probably a good source for work-a-day axes made in the U.S. still.

Love my Fiskars, though in this guy's situation an ax to which he can make his own handle may be a good idea. Don't know what woods in Alaska would work for ax handles though.

He will also want these two manuals from the U.S. Forest Service:

http://www.pcta.org/pdf/an_ax_to_grind.pdf

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment...cations/fs_publications/pdf/pdf77712508hi.pdf

USFS still uses axes & cross-cut saws for work in "wilderness areas" -- one of their studies cleaning up after severe wind damage in the Boundary Waters area of Minnesota, after like two weeks of work that was a mix of cutting and clearing trails, the chainsaw and hand crews finished effectively tied in the miles of trails cleared...which at least shows that in certain situations chainsaws don't necessarily increase productivity.

 

[Dalmatian90]

Huh...somehow when I was looking at Crosscut saws I downloaded a Word file (I don't know from where!) and when I noticed it and opened it, it had this list:


SOURCES LISTED IN THE BACK OF “CROSSCUT SAW MANUAL”
New Crosscut Saws and Accessories
• The Crosscut Saw Co. sells new and vintage crosscut saws and tools.
Crosscut Saw Co.
P.O. Box 787
Seneca Falls, NY 13148
Phone: 315–568–5755
Web site: Crosscut Saw Company
• Flicker Forge offers replica vintage saw handles.
Flicker Forge (Japheth Howard)
39184 School House Rd.
Salisbury, MO 65281
Phone: 660–777–3508
Fax: 660–777–3302
Web site: Flicker Forge | The Artist Blacksmith L. Japheth Howard
• Jim's Crosscut Saws sells reconditioned saws and accessories, and sharpens saws.
Jim's Crosscut Saws (Jim Talburt)
7914 Northbank Rd.
Roseburg, OR 97470
Phone: 541–673–6940
Web site: Jim's Crosscut Saws
• Lehman's offers several one- and two-person saws and handles.
Lehman's
P.O. Box 41
One Lehman Circle
Kidron, OH 44636
Phone orders: 1–877–438–5346
Customer service: 1–888–438–5346
Fax: 1-888-780-4975
Web site: Home - Lehmans.com
• Tuatahi Axes and Saws offers crosscut saws for forest workers and for sawyers who compete in races. Bailey's is the United States distributor for Tuatahi products.
Tuatahi Axes and Saws
203 High St.
Masterton
New Zealand
Phone: (011) 646–377–3728
Fax: (011) 646–377–5343
• Bailey's
P.O. Box 550
44650 Highway 101
Laytonville, CA 95454
Phone: 707–984–6133
Fax: 707–984–8115
Web site: Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's
• Woodcraft offers at least two types of crosscut saws.
Woodcraft
P.O. Box 1686
Parkersburg, WV 26102–1686
Phone: 304–442–5412
Web site: Woodworking Plans & Tools | Fine Woodworking Project & Supplies at Woodcraft

 

[AT sawyer]

For making face cuts, use an axe you're comfortable with. Unless you chop in timbersports contests, smaller is better for chopping out a face cut, as you want accuracy. I've seen a lot of guys tire real fast swinging an axe and their accuracy is the first thing to go once they poop out. Avoid any saw from Curtis. You'll be better off buying one at a yard sale or on Ebay and having someone file it for you.

Check out this site for traditional tool discussions and links to people who file:

crosscutsawyer.com • Index page

 

[CTYank]

Best splitting tool I've found: 3 kg (6.6 lb) Muller, from Austria. $150. Great for busting up the big rounds. Great head shape, edge and metallurgy- hand forged. At present rate, it should outlast me, including handle. Greatly out-performs basic department store/big-box mauls, because of shape. See traditionalwoodworker dot com. I hand split probably 5 cords some years so the price/productivity/fun thing makes it a no-brainer to me.

Similar tools made by Gransfors Bruks, Iltis Oxhead (also labelled for Stihl), Wetterlings etc. None of these are cheap, but they are hand-forged by master smiths. As opposed to cookie-cutter tools with questionable metallurgy, forging, heat-treating. See reviews of Gransfors on Amazon, for instance.

Splitting axes oriented more toward kindling, IMHO.

 

[trailmaker]

Bear with me as this is my first post. I did some searches and was not satisfied.

I would like to know what the preffered currently made felling axe and the preferred splitting axe/maul is today.

Also is there anyone currently making two/one man crosscut felling/bucking saws today?

I just moved from Alaska I would like to start cutting wood the old way.

thanks for any advice

I'm no expert on felling axes but I do have quite a few of them. My most productive axe is the 4 pound "Velvicut" made by Council Tool. It just feels good in the hand and really throws the chips.

I've got tons of splitters too, and you can't go wrong with the Fiskars. I prefer their older generation consisting of the 4.25 pound "Super Splitter" and 2.5 pound "Pro Splitting Axe". The Gransfors heavy splitting maul is also very nice, but in a different price category.

 

[slowp]

According to one of the crosscut gurus at a trail maintenance workshop, there are no good crosscuts being manufactured now. He looks for used ones that are in good shape. A set of handles is also needed and costly.

One of the prized brands of falling axes in the PNW was the Sager Chemical Axe. Those can be found at swap meets and yard sales. They are not made anymore.

A falling axe is a double bladed axe, and is fairly narrow and has a flattish top. They were used to put in the face cut. This picture is kind of bad because of the diamond plate reflection on the axe.

Something else I learned at the workshop...wedges used for crosscut work are thinner than chainsaw wedges. Crosscuts have thinner kerfs. Also, a sharp crosscut spits out noodles, not chips.

I worked with these guys last year on a volunteer day. We worked on the Pacific Crest Trail.

View attachment 248063View attachment 248064

 

[ShaneLogs]

According to one of the crosscut gurus at a trail maintenance workshop, there are no good crosscuts being manufactured now. He looks for used ones that are in good shape. A set of handles is also needed and costly.

One of the prized brands of falling axes in the PNW was the Sager Chemical Axe. Those can be found at swap meets and yard sales. They are not made anymore.

A falling axe is a double bladed axe, and is fairly narrow and has a flattish top. They were used to put in the face cut. This picture is kind of bad because of the diamond plate reflection on the axe.

Something else I learned at the workshop...wedges used for crosscut work are thinner than chainsaw wedges. Crosscuts have thinner kerfs. Also, a sharp crosscut spits out noodles, not chips.

I worked with these guys last year on a volunteer day. We worked on the Pacific Crest Trail.

View attachment 248063View attachment 248064

Looks good. Those cross cut saws look like they cut dead downed trees good!

 

[LumberjkChamp]

Dalmation90 is right on with Tuatahi (pronounced too-ah-ta-hee). However, Bailey's is not the distributor for them anymore. This happened about 7 years ago. I spoke directly with the sales rep. at the time (Mike Wiliwand if remember correctly), he told me the reason they parted ways, but it escapes me at the moment. You'd have to buy directly from Tuatahi.

I bought one of their 4 foot worksaws. It is all it is said to be. I have more than enough time on it to know. I cut 10 cords per year with it. Stays real sharp. It only needs a good sharpen every 6-8 cords or so. One year I got a full 10 cords out of it by mounting the handle on the other side of the saw so as to use different teeth. I have cut all types of wood ranging from Eastern White pine to Eastern Hophornbeam. The biggest tree I ever used it on was a co-dom. White Ash that was 30 inches in diameter. 15 minutes per buck in a tree that size. Not anyone can do it- you have to really want to.

I have the M-tooth, but I've got my eye on the new peg and raker worksaw. The M-tooth's throw chips, the peg and rakers throw noodles.

In short, if you're looking for a high quality crosscut, shoot these guys an e-mail. They make a heck of a product.

Any drawbacks would just be general ones that are common to all crosscuts. Pay attention to your work area and set it up right and you'll be fine. It'll save frustration. If all else fails, grab the Husky 372.

 

[redheadwoodshed]

Steve
Can you suggest a place to check out axes in NW WI? I live less than 20 miles form Hayward.
Thanks

Mac
I know I am little odd but I don't have a physical job so I like to work when I get home. I also like the sound of an axe vs a chainsaw.

A little odd? You found the right place here! Sound of an axe vs. a chainsaw ? Never fear, that can be cured, although I really like axes and have quite a few and keep them clean and sharp.They are a handy indespensible tool, but I like my chainsaws,too.
My advise for a really good axe is to hit the fleamarket/junkstores.I got most of my axes this way for just a few bucks each and replaced the hafts.You can find some good quality American steel made axes that way.Same goes for crosscut miserywhips, but they tend to cost a little more and you really need to learn how to sharpen and set the teeth on those.Kelly is a good old name in axes and even the old true tempers are pretty good.I have a very good hatchet that says "made in west germany" on it and that baby stays sharp!Paid 2 bucks for it and 6 more for a new haft.Can't find that at Fiskars, who by the way makes decent scissors.Fiskars axes on the other hand or more properly, in my hands, don't seem properly balanced, or something.I just don't like them.But to each his own.Welcome to AS and good luck!

 

[wagz]

as far as splitting goes, i simply use a 6 lb maul and have 2 wedges as backup. i haven't run into anything that i couldn't split yet w/ these 3 items. maul is a cheapo from Tractor supply co, with a fiberglass handle. wedges are from the old days...

 

[slowp]

Dalmation90 is right on with Tuatahi (pronounced too-ah-ta-hee). However, Bailey's is not the distributor for them anymore. This happened about 7 years ago. I spoke directly with the sales rep. at the time (Mike Wiliwand if remember correctly), he told me the reason they parted ways, but it escapes me at the moment. You'd have to buy directly from Tuatahi.

I bought one of their 4 foot worksaws. It is all it is said to be. I have more than enough time on it to know. I cut 10 cords per year with it. Stays real sharp. It only needs a good sharpen every 6-8 cords or so. One year I got a full 10 cords out of it by mounting the handle on the other side of the saw so as to use different teeth. I have cut all types of wood ranging from Eastern White pine to Eastern Hophornbeam. The biggest tree I ever used it on was a co-dom. White Ash that was 30 inches in diameter. 15 minutes per buck in a tree that size. Not anyone can do it- you have to really want to.

I have the M-tooth, but I've got my eye on the new peg and raker worksaw. The M-tooth's throw chips, the peg and rakers throw noodles.

In short, if you're looking for a high quality crosscut, shoot these guys an e-mail. They make a heck of a product.

Any drawbacks would just be general ones that are common to all crosscuts. Pay attention to your work area and set it up right and you'll be fine. It'll save frustration. If all else fails, grab the Husky 372.

Do you sharpen your own saws?

 

[LumberjkChamp]

Do you sharpen your own saws?

Yes. I taught myself. In my opinion, it is only a little more difficult than sharpening a saw chain (we're talking worksaws not racing ones). However, it is much more time consuming. I like to do a nice job, so 4-6 hours is not out of the question. Take frequent breaks and don't let fatigue set in. You need to have a nice vise to clamp the saw in and plenty of light. Natural light is even better. If you file with a steady hand, then freehand sharpening is not out of the question. Its not perfect, but you could make a useful saw out of one that won't work. You'd be surprised.

 

[redheadwoodshed]

Yes. I taught myself. In my opinion, it is only a little more difficult than sharpening a saw chain (we're talking worksaws not racing ones). However, it is much more time consuming. I like to do a nice job, so 4-6 hours is not out of the question. Take frequent breaks and don't let fatigue set in. You need to have a nice vise to clamp the saw in and plenty of light. Natural light is even better. If you file with a steady hand, then freehand sharpening is not out of the question. Its not perfect, but you could make a useful saw out of one that won't work. You'd be surprised.

My granddad had the vise and whole kit to sharpen and set a crosscut saw, I think my older brother wound up with all that and his 2 6' saws.I have a 4' that I use from time to time.I think it is a cut down 6'.We used them a good bit growing up.We took a glass coke bottle full of kerosene, stuffed the mouth of it with pine straw and used that for our oiler.