Best vintage Husqvarna?

[promac850]

Surely you can save a few seconds now and then with an inboard, but the price is rather high - adverse effect on the handling of the saw, more wear and tear on the crank and PTO side crank bearing, and "trapping" heat in general, and particularly on the clutch bearing - which have proven to be a major problem on some saws with plastic caged clutch bearings (mainly MS261 and 362, that I know of).

I will give you that. I haven't had a problem with that yet, though. Granted, I don't run my saw more than a tank full at a time. I take breaks and check the saw over, if the chain's loose, I let it cool and readjust, etc. I don't go about like a chicken with its head cut off and refuelling like crazy and running around with the saw because that is how you get hurt.

 

[SawTroll]

I will give you that. I haven't had a problem with that yet, though. Granted, I don't run my saw more than a tank full at a time. I take breaks and check the saw over, if the chain's loose, I let it cool and readjust, etc. I don't go about like a chicken with its head cut off and refuelling like crazy and running around with the saw because that is how you get hurt.

The major issues usually turn up in professional all day use only, the handling issue likely is the only one that most AS members will notice. An exception from that is that if you tighten a chain when warm, and forget to loosen it before the chain cools off, there is much more chance of damaging the crank with an inboard than with an outboard - as the force from the contracting chain will have much more "arm" to work with.

 

[chipper1]

That is a beauty for sure. Fondled a 2252 a couple weeks ago, but just can't bring myself to auto tune. Maybe I will have to drive up and get one from you someday.

Have no fear my friend the triple nickel has no problems not the 550 I previously had .
Where are you at, I'm all over the state as well as NW Ohio, northern In, and Chicago land area.

 

[chipper1]

That's your problem - an advantage with the older ones (older than the 371-family) is of course that they have an outboard clutch.

Yes and a disadvantage would be parts availability, chain tensioner location, as well as Lesser AV, and filtration. Someone can add more, but your off topic ST.
Good morning by the way , or are you still up .

 

[rocketnorton]

Production year and week, as I'm not sure for how long the model was made. That info usually is part of the serial number, but in some cases the year is on the plate, in addition to the serial number.

Husky saws made before 1982 can't be "dated" this way - but this one obviously isn't one of those (many 2100s are).

2101w 0440xxx am guessin the last 4 [0xxx] are sn. lemme know if ya need em

Personally, I find vintage Husqvarna saws rather boring. For my one and only, it would have to be a 372XP.

268 w/ported 272 top, ftw. just my $.02. 288's still my pick.

 

[SawTroll]

2101w 0440xxx am guessin the last 4 [0xxx] are sn. lemme know if ya need em

.....

The "w" fits with the wrap handle, so that one likely is original to the saw, not a later "add-on".

0440xxx is 100% conclusive at 1990 week 44, no need for the last 3 digits, as long as the number of them is there (it is) - unless you want a wild guess on the day in the week of course.

1990 isn't a particularly late one, even though it looks nicer than most (if not all) I have seen before. The last operators manual was issued in 1997.

 

[blsnelling]

Personally, I find vintage Husqvarna saws rather boring. For my one and only, it would have to be a 372XP.

That's your problem - an advantage with the older ones (older than the 371-family) is of course that they have an outboard clutch.

Surely you can save a few seconds now and then with an inboard, but the price is rather high - adverse effect on the handling of the saw, more wear and tear on the crank and PTO side crank bearing, and "trapping" heat in general, and particularly on the clutch bearing - which have proven to be a major problem on some saws with plastic caged clutch bearings (mainly MS261 and 362, that I know of).

The major issues usually turn up in professional all day use only, the handling issue likely is the only one that most AS members will notice. An exception from that is that if you tighten a chain when warm, and forget to loosen it before the chain cools off, there is much more chance of damaging the crank with an inboard than with an outboard - as the force from the contracting chain will have much more "arm" to work with.

Inboard, outboard, upboard, downboard. That horse is dead. I'll take an inboard everyday over an outboard.

 

[SawTroll]

Inboard, outboard, upboard, downboard. That horse is dead. I'll take an inboard everyday over an outboard.

The "horse" is just fine - there just are some people that doesn't want to admit it, as it wasn't what the Stihl advertising indoctrinated them with in the 1990s.

There is a reason that the heavier 056 Mag handles and feels better than the lighter 066/660, and it is of course that it has an outboard clutch. It is the same with 272xp vs 372xp, 288xp vs. 385/390xp, and many other exemples.

There also are exactly 3 husky models that reportedly have had major issues with the PTO side crank bearings, and they are exactly the same models that were the first ones in a "family" of inboard clutch saws, namely the 371xp, 385xp and 575xp.

 

[SawTroll]

Another note is that we seldom see posts about issues with Stihl saws on US forums, as most Stihl fans have a too high brand loyalty to post about it - but they are very common on European forums, where the brand loyalty of Stihl owners isn't on the same level.

 

[chipper1]

If you could only own one Husqvarna for the rest of your life which one would you pick?

So if you were asked what one Husqvarna saw you would pick for the rest of your like what would it be @SawTroll , I think that's what this thread is about . I'm guessing a thread where we are talking about our favorite husky saws we would be a bit bias in conversing on just that, husky saws .
Back to the OP.

 

[blsnelling]

There is a reason that the heavier 056 Mag handles and feels better than the lighter 066/660, and it is of course that it has an outboard clutch. It is the same with 272xp vs 372xp, 288xp vs. 385/390xp, and many other exemples.

Seriously? You're really reaching now.

 

[chipper1]

Inboard, outboard, upboard, downboard. That horse is dead. I'll take an inboard everyday over an outboard.

I like my little outboards, they're all Hondas, but that's another topic, really!

Seriously? You're really reaching now.

As I just said, it's a sinking ship Brad, and you and Niko are both taking a ride on it.
Back to the OP/topic, any chance you have a picture or two of one of your sweet 372s, that's why I'm in this thread; ).

 

[old 040]

That's another nice one, unless it is the same saw at a different time (and a different handlebar)?

Same saw I've posted many times before, It was all original except the clutch cover decal and the duel spikes I added after I bought it, I did sell this saw about three years ago....

 

[old 040]

Another that's very near the top of the list.....

 

[SawTroll]

Seriously? You're really reaching now.

No.

So if you were asked what one Husqvarna saw you would pick for the rest of your like what would it be @SawTroll , I think that's what this thread is about . I'm guessing a thread where we are talking about our favorite husky saws we would be a bit bias in conversing on just that, husky saws .
Back to the OP.View attachment 531857

272xp vs. 372xp is a dilemma, as virtually everything is better on the 372, except that it has an inboard vs. an outboard - I would "eat the camel" in that case (and did, about 10 years ago). I'm not fanatic about it, even though some may get that impression.

 

[rocketnorton]

The "w" fits with the wrap handle, so that one likely is original to the saw, not a later "add-on".

0440xxx is 100% conclusive at 1990 week 44, no need for the last 3 digits, as long as the number of them is there (it is) - unless you want a wild guess on the day in the week of course.

1990 isn't a particularly late one, even though it looks nicer than most (if not all) I have seen before. The last operators manual was issued in 1997.

have operator manual, ipl, tool kit, oe 36", too. got from original owner. he put bout 15hr on it. I maybe got nother 5 on it.

 

[blsnelling]

...any chance you have a picture or two of one of your sweet 372s, that's why I'm in this thread; ).

Here's my current 372.

Here's a trio of them, not all mine.

Here's a like new 371XPW i just bought that will be here this Wednesday. It'll be getting ported. All it needs is the muffler cleaned up and painted. An old man owned and obviously let it set.

 

[chipper1]

No.


272xp vs. 372xp is a dilemma, as virtually everything is better on the 372, except that it has an inboard vs. an outboard - I would "eat the camel" in that case (and did, about 10 years ago). I'm not fanatic about it, even though some may get that impression.

I get all that, that's why I'd choose the 3 series .
So what saw would you choose?
Maybe one of these?

 

[chipper1]

Here's my current 372.

Here's a trio of them, not all mine.

Here's a like new 371XPW i just bought that will be here this Wednesday. It'll be getting ported. All it needs is the muffler cleaned up and painted. An old man owned and obviously let it set.
View attachment 531887 View attachment 531888 View attachment 531889 View attachment 531890

Nice saws Brad. I was just looking at a 371. But for now the 70cc class is full .
Maybe I should unload one of my 90cc saws.
Which would you dump, the never fired 288xp or the 660 lol. I'm almost positive you'd pick the 660 LOL I won't put a picture of it since that's another thread .

 

[blsnelling]

The 660 would be much easier to replace!