Grab your 3/8" drive ratchet and a 13/16" spark plug socket now give it a good firm smack with the palm of your hand. It will come loose.
Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about
- Thread starter Modifiedmark
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7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
It often helps when the saw is warm. So run a few noodling cuts to get it nicely warmed up and then give it a try like mentioned above. With all my brand new saws it is always the same. The companies drive in the spark plug quite enthusiastic.
When putting in again, I like to put a very thin coating with a copper stick only on the outer 3/4 and not on the inner 1/4 thread. This is what I use
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-466863-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Temperature/dp/B002A64RLA/ref=pd_sim_328_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=411FKPahSpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0XJMVHB4WXH7R0EBG8YZ
7
When putting in again, I like to put a very thin coating with a copper stick only on the outer 3/4 and not on the inner 1/4 thread. This is what I use
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-466863-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Temperature/dp/B002A64RLA/ref=pd_sim_328_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=411FKPahSpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0XJMVHB4WXH7R0EBG8YZ
7
Thanks for the thoughts guys. The saw was warm when I tried and I tapped a bit with a hammer on the skrench. I have been around quite a lot of 2 stroke engines and have never seen one this tight. I will go get it out, if it messes something up I'll just take it back.
I've never needed to antiseize a plug it it sticks after proper install I'll use some (I've got the aluminum and copper) those antiseize sticks and locktite sticks are the sh*t!
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I've never needed to antiseize a plug it it sticks after proper install I'll use some (I've got the aluminum and copper) those antiseize sticks and locktite sticks are the sh*t!
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noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
use an impact and socket it should come right out. but if not, hold them to the warrantee definately
noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
I used the sh!t out of it for 2 years. they were hard years for it. the piston rings are what gave out, but the cylinder was still in good shape, the piston was pretty rough, but probably could have been re used, but for 7 bucks I could buy a new piston and ring kit from e-replacement parts so that was a no brainer. why put an old piston back into it. but now I know I can work it hard and it will put up a fight til the end, then if it does shoot craps, I can rebuild it for under 50 and put her back to work. I love that saw.
Dang, 4 years later and this thread is still alive and well! 
Getting some real world feedback and it seems there holding up really well. I guess these really are the best buy for a $200 saw for a whole lot of folks.
Getting some real world feedback and it seems there holding up really well. I guess these really are the best buy for a $200 saw for a whole lot of folks.
Well I got the plug out! I swore I was going to see threads! All is well. The plug was a bueatiful cardboard brown. Two more tanks and she really is starting to open up, haha I may have added a few holes to the muffler. Checked again at the end of the day because she was running real good, the plug still was the right color! I bet with a real bar and chain this would really be a great cutter. Not bad for under 200.
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Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
tfrugal
ArboristSite Lurker
Dang, 4 years later and this thread is still alive and well!
Getting some real world feedback and it seems there holding up really well. I guess these really are the best buy for a $200 saw for a whole lot of folks.
i have worked my way thru 'war and peace', and it was worth the effort. you actually have me thinking about buying one. thanks.
LittleLebowski
ArboristSite Guru
Newbie here, would changing the bar to 16" net me any gains? What about a chain upgrade off the bat?
What gains do you speak of? You looking for a race saw? 
Just like any 50cc saw, it will pull a 16" bar better then a 20" bar if that's what your asking. There is nothing wrong with the 20" bar and chain that comes on it for a homeowner saw, no need to really change it out right off the bat unless you want to. If your only needing a 16" bar, you could change it right off the bat I guess, then you would still have the 20" if you get into bigger stuff later where you could use it.
Just like any 50cc saw, it will pull a 16" bar better then a 20" bar if that's what your asking. There is nothing wrong with the 20" bar and chain that comes on it for a homeowner saw, no need to really change it out right off the bat unless you want to. If your only needing a 16" bar, you could change it right off the bat I guess, then you would still have the 20" if you get into bigger stuff later where you could use it.
dgr
ArboristSite Lurker
LeBowski,
I have a thread on here you might find useful. It has some part numbers for a different bar and several chains. The 20" bar buried didn't have a problem on what I think was the dead alder I removed.
I have a thread on here you might find useful. It has some part numbers for a different bar and several chains. The 20" bar buried didn't have a problem on what I think was the dead alder I removed.
I run the 5020 I had with a 16" Powermatch and 72LGX full chisel chain because that's what I had handy here at the time. It ran good with that but for a homeowner/newbie firewood cutter, I would think the less expensive Prolite bar with a semi chisel 72DPX chain would be the way to go. 
Here is the 5020 running the 16" bar in a piece of White Oak from my firewood stash. Yes its hard stuff, I don't go out looking for rotten pine to show off with like some east of me like to. 
It does a fine job for a $200 consumer saw. I guess I don't know how to embed a video anymore..
http://vid1321.photobucket.com/albums/u560/Modifiedmark/PP 5020 large_zpsmdcj4ofn.mp4
It does a fine job for a $200 consumer saw. I guess I don't know how to embed a video anymore..
http://vid1321.photobucket.com/albums/u560/Modifiedmark/PP 5020 large_zpsmdcj4ofn.mp4
LittleLebowski
ArboristSite Guru
What gains do you speak of? You looking for a race saw?
Just like any 50cc saw, it will pull a 16" bar better then a 20" bar if that's what your asking. There is nothing wrong with the 20" bar and chain that comes on it for a homeowner saw, no need to really change it out right off the bat unless you want to. If your only needing a 16" bar, you could change it right off the bat I guess, then you would still have the 20" if you get into bigger stuff later where you could use it.
Nope, just want it to run well for a long time. Not afraid of tinkering but if it ain't broke....
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
A better 3/8 chain makes a difference hell I'd keep a 20 on it. It's less you have to bend over to cut brush up
zogger
Tree Freak
If you do get a pp5020av, spend a little extra and get it from a servicing dealer, and make sure it is started and run and tuned correctly before you leave the shop. Make sure it is rich enough it doesn't run lean, that would be my only concern with new saws in general.
I finally got one myself last month, but haven't done much with it yet, got a few saws to work on ahead of it. Told myself I would get the first decent looking used one I saw once they hit $100 even, and finally found one. Only started it and ran it ten seconds so far though, but it looks like it was used one time. I don't trust used saws though until I at least partially tear them down and inspect stuff, just waiting for another pack of round tuits...
Story, several years back, when my 20 buck used saw split the oil tank and it leaked into the fuel tank, I said enough already, had gotten my income tax check back, needed a good saw right then, so went to the local servicing dealer and got the cheapest new little husky they had at the time, a 137. Being a servicing dealer, they started it and retuned it and dang if that little saw still doesn't run perfect. And that was my budget then 200 clams.
I had gone from 1970 to, forget now, 2007? Something like that, with only running 10-20 bucks saws. Treated myself finally. And I know it made a big difference on the saws reliability just from the fact they have a wrench there with a clue who tuned the saw for me correctly. We have since become good friends.
Then a tornado hit, needed a much larger saw, and I found this site doing some research and got CAD and..oh man....HAHAHAHAHA!
Saws trucks trailers specialty tools and am half way to finishing my little shop now....gets addictive for sure.
Oh..years and years ahead on my firewood stash as well..that's the easy part..hehehehe
A better chain, and what would that be? The 72V chain that comes on it will cut right with the rest of them if you know how to set the rakers when needed.
Its a ton better chain then some of the other safety chains out there, like some of that Stihl chain....
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
True. But the rolled over rakes and a flat file takes weeks to file down I had a few that I cut the rolled rakers off with a dremel and seem to cut better. The cutter itself is nice and hold a edge for a while
I hate vanguard chain and openly admit I can't set the wide rakers correctly .... It came on my 455 years ago just a question I want a 5020 when I find a used one right How is the antivibe I'd like to hear several opinions if this isn't thread hijacking
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
I think they feel better that the 4620avx less play in them. Only vibe I've really notice is piss revin no load. In a cut feels fine
