CertifiedFunds
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello new here can you tell me why you cant buy a chain saw with a bow on it. I would really like to have one again but can find a dealer with one.
Bow saw
- Thread starter CertifiedFunds
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Check the Baileys catalog they got em
http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi...=bow+bars&mv_min_string=4&image.x=0&image.y=0
http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi...=bow+bars&mv_min_string=4&image.x=0&image.y=0
458_lott
ArboristSite Operative
CertifiedFunds,
The deal is liability. I use bow saws daily and could get any I wanted in the 70's and 80's. Lawyers have made that a thing of the past. Can get bow bars and upper and lower guards from Bailey's to fit some Stihl and Huskys, but no current saw manufacturer will sell powerhead with bow attached. From time to time you can find Homelites, Poulans, and every once-in-awhile an Echo on e-bay with bows on them. Most sellers have no idea what they are, but trust me, the buyers do. They usually bring decent money. Currently, I run a Poulan 3700, Homelite XL-12, and a Homelite Super Wiz 66 with bows. Do all of my bucking up with a bow saw. Saves the back and I can usually cut three times as fast as someone with a bar and wedge (when their bar pinches).
The deal is liability. I use bow saws daily and could get any I wanted in the 70's and 80's. Lawyers have made that a thing of the past. Can get bow bars and upper and lower guards from Bailey's to fit some Stihl and Huskys, but no current saw manufacturer will sell powerhead with bow attached. From time to time you can find Homelites, Poulans, and every once-in-awhile an Echo on e-bay with bows on them. Most sellers have no idea what they are, but trust me, the buyers do. They usually bring decent money. Currently, I run a Poulan 3700, Homelite XL-12, and a Homelite Super Wiz 66 with bows. Do all of my bucking up with a bow saw. Saves the back and I can usually cut three times as fast as someone with a bar and wedge (when their bar pinches).
SawTroll
Information Collector
mattinky said:
,,,don't really know, and don't care, but bruchcutting is what enters my mind.......
...I prefare bruchcutters for that application......
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IchWarriorMkII
ArboristSite Guru
I did some googling when I saw the Bow bars on Baileys awhile back...
I gathered they are for cutting brush, as well as capable of regular cutting duties that a blade bar could be used for... with the arguement that they dont get pinched like a blade bar does. Not for sure though.
They also excel at hacking the user to bits
Well, not really, but they must have a higher kickback potential or something of the likes.
I gathered they are for cutting brush, as well as capable of regular cutting duties that a blade bar could be used for... with the arguement that they dont get pinched like a blade bar does. Not for sure though.
They also excel at hacking the user to bits
Well, not really, but they must have a higher kickback potential or something of the likes.
458_lott
ArboristSite Operative
Bow saws are used for bucking-up wood. There is a much smaller bow that is used for brush removal. I've said many times on this site that I can't imagine cutting pulp wood or firewood with any thing else. You cut with the front part of the bow. You have bumper spikes at the bottom of the front of the bow. Those are placed on ground side of wood (or closest to you). You cut with the front of the bow in a standing position (hence no bending over). As you proceed through the wood, the wood will naturally close on the cut, but as you can imagine, it is closing on the open part of the bow and you just keep cutting all the way through. No need for a wedge in the cut and no need to bend over. Drawbacks are you certainly must pay close attention to what you are doing AT ALL TIMES. Of course you should anyway. With the bow, the chain is quite long running around the length of the bow. Can come close to your upper body on the top of the bow and close to your thigh on the lower part of the bow. Never run without guards both top and bottom. When I used to cut commercially, I always had a large number of saws with bows on them. I would fell with Super XL-925s, but a bow saw was always there to limb and buck. When I cut pulp, felling was done with the bow also. Not something I would ever recommend. I just did it to save time. You have to be vigilant at all times. I can't imagine cutting without a bow. It makes short work of bucking-up fire wood. The people around here just look at me like I came from Mars, but quickly see the benefit when they look at my woodpile and just how short of a time it took me to get that pile.
SawTroll
Information Collector
IchWarriorMkII said:...
They also excel at hacking the user to bits
....
I believe you are right - I stay a long way away from them.....
CertifiedFunds
ArboristSite Lurker
458_lott said:
So what size power head to run one.
458_lott
ArboristSite Operative
CertifiedFunds,
I have run dozens of Homelite XL-12s with bows. The XL-12 is like the Super XL-12 Homelite except it is 3.3 cu.in. instead of 3.5 and is manual oil only. The XL-12 handles the 14" Homelite bow with no problem. The Poulan I currently use is a 3700 which is 3.7 cu.in. and wears a 14" bow (remember that is the cutting surface length on the front of the bow). My Super Wiz 66 is 4.7 cu.in., but it is not direct drive. It is gear drive and it's 16" bow wears 1/2 pitch chain. I weigh 200 lbs. and can rest my entire weight on that saw and it will not stall. Of course this is the reason you don't find gear drive saws anymore. Just a bit dangerous as you won't stall them like a direct drive. Saws are direct drive for many reasons, but an important one is safety, and of course, speed.
I have run Partner saws with bows also. Any saw in the 3.5 cu.in. size will power a 14" bow with 3/8 chain .50 gauge chain. Personally, I like saws with manual oilers (actually, I feel naked without them). A bow is a long surface to drag a chain and they are all hard-welded so there is considerable friction. I'm running a Stihl MS-460 as my felling saw now, but would like to get another Stihl and get a bow from Bailey's. I am just a bit nervous about not having a manual oiler over-ride on the Stihls. My Stihl oils well, but I always KNOW I am getting oil to my bar when I am constantly thumbing that trusty manual oiler. Just my quirk I guess, but I've cut a mess of wood in 38 years.
I have run dozens of Homelite XL-12s with bows. The XL-12 is like the Super XL-12 Homelite except it is 3.3 cu.in. instead of 3.5 and is manual oil only. The XL-12 handles the 14" Homelite bow with no problem. The Poulan I currently use is a 3700 which is 3.7 cu.in. and wears a 14" bow (remember that is the cutting surface length on the front of the bow). My Super Wiz 66 is 4.7 cu.in., but it is not direct drive. It is gear drive and it's 16" bow wears 1/2 pitch chain. I weigh 200 lbs. and can rest my entire weight on that saw and it will not stall. Of course this is the reason you don't find gear drive saws anymore. Just a bit dangerous as you won't stall them like a direct drive. Saws are direct drive for many reasons, but an important one is safety, and of course, speed.
I have run Partner saws with bows also. Any saw in the 3.5 cu.in. size will power a 14" bow with 3/8 chain .50 gauge chain. Personally, I like saws with manual oilers (actually, I feel naked without them). A bow is a long surface to drag a chain and they are all hard-welded so there is considerable friction. I'm running a Stihl MS-460 as my felling saw now, but would like to get another Stihl and get a bow from Bailey's. I am just a bit nervous about not having a manual oiler over-ride on the Stihls. My Stihl oils well, but I always KNOW I am getting oil to my bar when I am constantly thumbing that trusty manual oiler. Just my quirk I guess, but I've cut a mess of wood in 38 years.
CertifiedFunds
ArboristSite Lurker
so what size stihl for a 16" bow. I can buy any saw made and I keep them a long time but I want to make the right choice. Baileys website says Ms460 is the biggest. Maybe I just answered my question. It also says 066, is that a 660 or what.
458_lott
ArboristSite Operative
The MS-660 is the new, improved version (basically) of the 066. That would rip with a bow. I like a bow on any saw. I swear to you there is nothing like it. You just cannot believe the difference. It is so much faster. When cutting pulp wood, you tried to make as many trips to the drop-off as possible. It was hot work as you can imagine. Cutting pulp you make many cuts also. I just couldn't imagine doing that without a bow. I can't imagine cutting firewood without a bow. That is why I use them exclusively. Trust me, people around here really don't ever see bows in operation. I have had so many people over the years watch me cut I should have charged admission. Bows originated in the South. Actually Claude Poulan invented the bow for pulp wood cutting. The firewood industry will never be the same. With a bow, I guarantee you will cut three cords of wood to everyone else's one cord in the same time. I know. I have done it and continue to do it every year. Again, you must be very, very cautious. (My personal belief is no more cautious than you should be anyway, but I have cut with a bow for 38 years). When running a saw, I never daydream. Staying focused will keep you alive and keep all of your fingers and other appendages. I cut commercially during th 70's and 80's and had a former good logger friend that told me that you couldn't stay in this business and keep all of you appendages or your life. Less than two years after telling me that, he was killed in a logging accident. I never forgot what he told me and don't you either. Running a saw all day is as safe as you make it. There are always objective dangers out there (falling trees, widow-makers, etc,) but it is usually carelessness that causes injuries or death with saws. Carelessness includes not keeping your saws in proper tune, etc.
Good luck and be safe.
Michael
Good luck and be safe.
Michael
CertifiedFunds
ArboristSite Lurker
Well thank you for the info about the saws. I know what you mean I cut my kneecap out when I was 16 with a poulan bowsaw. But I still want one and I will call baileys this week, and make sure the MS 660 will fit their bow. If so I plan on making the purchase, and will post pics when I have it.
Thanks again for your help.
Thanks again for your help.
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
Stihl 460 Magnum
It ought to have all the power you need......
It ought to have all the power you need......
458_lott
ArboristSite Operative
Great saw. You really can go wrong with Stihl. Just wish they had the manual over-ride. Don't know how much of a big deal it is. It is just that I am old fashioned I guess. Heck, I remember pteradactyls in the sky as I ran away from tyranosaurus rex.(sp?)
Anyway, enjoy and let us know how that great 660 runs.
Anyway, enjoy and let us know how that great 660 runs.
If you go with a 660, consider upgrading to the Australian high-output oiler. You can have the dealer swap it out or you can follow the illustrated instructions that Andy (well, I think it was Andy) posted here. That would definitely keep a big bow well lubed up.
