Breaking in a new saw?

[The Famous Grouse]

Hi everyone,

Ok, the Husqvarna 445 is sitting in the shop, all assembled and ready to go. I have a fresh gallon of non-ox with Husqvarna's very own oil mixed. Chain oil is at the ready. I've even read the manual. Only problem is I've never had a new-new saw before.

And the manual mentions nothing about break-in. Just add fuel/oil, fill bar oil, and go according to the manual. Ummm... this makes me a little nervous.

Questions:

1. Before startup should I be doing anything? Main one here is should I be adding a spray of fogging oil to the cylinder to avoid starting the machine dry? Anything else I should do before stating? The thought of the cylinder walls being too dry during the first startup worries me.

2. For the first startup how should I run the saw? I'm assuming like most new machines, it's recommended that there is no max-rpm running for a certain period of time?

What are the dos/don'ts of new saw startup and break in?

Many thanks.

Grouse

 

[1Alpha1]

Just fire it up and go at it. I've yet to see or know of a dealer that will go to the trouble to fog a cylinder.

If you prefer to take it easy for a few minutes, then that's fine too.

 

[TreeswingerPerth]

Yip , just fill her up and let rip , no messing . It's always worked for me .

 

[moondoggie]

Hi everyone,

Ok, the Husqvarna 445 is sitting in the shop, all assembled and ready to go. I have a fresh gallon of non-ox with Husqvarna's very own oil mixed. Chain oil is at the ready. I've even read the manual. Only problem is I've never had a new-new saw before.

And the manual mentions nothing about break-in. Just add fuel/oil, fill bar oil, and go according to the manual. Ummm... this makes me a little nervous.

Questions:

1. Before startup should I be doing anything? Main one here is should I be adding a spray of fogging oil to the cylinder to avoid starting the machine dry? Anything else I should do before stating? The thought of the cylinder walls being too dry during the first startup worries me.

2. For the first startup how should I run the saw? I'm assuming like most new machines, it's recommended that there is no max-rpm running for a certain period of time?

What are the dos/don'ts of new saw startup and break in?

Many thanks.

Grouse

.

 

[GPX433Todd]

If you bought it from a certified dealer, it has already been ran a bit anyway.

 

[The Famous Grouse]

You guys aren't making this complicated enough...

Ok so just gas and go? There’s really no danger of scuffing for lack of lube on cylinder walls?

Grouse

 

[GPX433Todd]

Run it easy for the first couple tanks. No cutting wood as big as the bar. No holding the troddle wide open for more than 10 seconds at a time. Me...a new saw...I'd break it in piss revving it in the garage for the first full tank.

 

[moondoggie]

I just fired mine up and went to cutting way back in 2011 keep the air filter clean , chain sharp ,and the bar dressed!

 

[Ironworker]

It's a two stroke, run it like a rented car.

 

[Rockjock]

When we sell a new saw we just tell the customer to go at it. Good gas good oil and give it the berries. We do tell them after the 5th tank of gas to bring it back and we check the tune, seldom if ever do we need to do anything.

 

[CR888]

Run it easy for the first couple tanks. No cutting wood as big as the bar. No holding the troddle wide open for more than 10 seconds at a time. Me...a new saw...I'd break it in piss revving it in the garage for the first full tank.

Absolutely false information, this is why asking a question like this on a internet forum can nett you more bad incorrect info than useful correct info. An easy break in is the WORST thing you can do to seat the rings. What a break in involves is the seating of piston rings to achieve a good ring seal. Good ring seal translates to more power that is why after break in power is increased. What seats a piston ring for a good seal?? GAS PRESSURE!!! Now if you want this you need to create as much gas pressure forcing the rings to bed as possible. How do we achieve this?? We need to run the saw under heavy load at WOT to achieve this. Mentioned above 'no cutting wood as long as the bar' and 'run it easy' and the funniest I have yet to hear 'piss rev it in the garage for the first tank' is complete garbage the opposite to what is needed to seat the rings and achieve good ring seal. Easy break-in will not achieve the best ring seal and promote blow by and loss of power. Machining tolerances today are far better than the past and if anything is to go bang, it will do so whether you break in correctly or listen to the rubbish posted above. You get a small window of opportunity to get this right and it will serve you well into the future if done correctly. If you do as advised above gasses will escape past the rings and you will get the less power and the bad problems associated with blow by. Don't even start the engine until your ready to put it under load. Use mineral oil for best results not synthetic. After a brief warm up get that bar and chain into some big wood and hold that throttle WOT. Do not piss rev or run WOT unless 'under load'!!!!!!! Hope this helps

 

[Full Chisel]

Fuel it and run it. It's a chainsaw, not fine china. Put it in wood, tune it and let 'er rip!

 

[CR888]

Sadly the knowledge base on this site has changed some what, more and more missinformation is being posted these days. The wiser guys don't want to argue with 'know it alls' but I will call out an idiot posting garbage when I feel the need. Free of charge too.

 

[1Alpha1]

If you want to play it safe, do this:

Fire it up and use it.

 

[jakethesnake]

I'd run it hard as stated maybe let it warm up then run the **** out of it what I've always done one saw fifteen years old other round 9 or ten only new ones I ever bought they're still here

 

[GPX433Todd]

Sadly the knowledge base on this site has changed some what, more and more missinformation is being posted these days. The wiser guys don't want to argue with 'know it alls' but I will call out an idiot posting garbage when I feel the need. Free of charge too.

I wouldn't consider myself an idiot.

 

[1Alpha1]

I wouldn't consider myself an idiot.

Don't sweat it.

We all post recommendations, opinions, views, etc. Those asking for them, are free to pick & choose as they like.

 

[Cody]

Absolutely false information, this is why asking a question like this on a internet forum can nett you more bad incorrect info than useful correct info. An easy break in is the WORST thing you can do to seat the rings. What a break in involves is the seating of piston rings to achieve a good ring seal. Good ring seal translates to more power that is why after break in power is increased. What seats a piston ring for a good seal?? GAS PRESSURE!!! Now if you want this you need to create as much gas pressure forcing the rings to bed as possible. How do we achieve this?? We need to run the saw under heavy load at WOT to achieve this. Mentioned above 'no cutting wood as long as the bar' and 'run it easy' and the funniest I have yet to hear 'piss rev it in the garage for the dirt tank' is complete garbage the opposite to what is needed to seat the rings and achieve good ring seal. Easy break-in will not achieve the best ring seal and promote blow by and loss of power. Machining tolerances today are far better than the past and if anything is to go bang, it will do so whether you break in correctly or listen to the rubbish posted above. You get a small window of opportunity to get this right and it will serve you well into the future if done correctly. If you do as advised above gasses will escape past the rings and you will get the less power and the bad problems associated with blow by. Don't even start the engine until your ready to put it under load. Use mineral oil for best results not synthetic. After a brief warm up get that bar and chain into some big wood and hold that throttle WOT. Do not piss rev or run WOT unless 'under load'!!!!!!! Hope this helps

Thank you!!!

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

Thank you!!!

lot of confusing, conflicting information here. omg! well, one thing stands gospel. for any engine, fire it up and let it warm up first... idle.... let the internals warm up and normalize... let it heat soak itself... once normalized, then put the pedal to the metal. as stated don't WOT without load, and don't do it cold! personally, I like the idea of moderate use for first tank. but in any event, following the mfgr's intstructions per the Owner's Manual should be a good guide. after all, they wrote it, and they will warranty it if used as directed.

a question such as u ask is like asking a group of hot rodders, what is the best performance camshaft for my engine? out of 200 guys, you will get 200 different answers...

I like the post... read what is posted, and decide what you like. best to be informed in that case... when all else fails: read the Operating Manual.

 

[rogue60]

Personally with a new saw 1st thing I do is dump the crap mix from the dealer out of the tank and put a fresh tank of my own mix in (mineral oil), and put it to work get it under load to bed the rings in and tune as needed.. As has been pointed out you don't get a very big window to bed the rings in and yes we are talking about a chainsaw a very basic industrial 2 stroke engine here.
I don't think a lot of people realize how much power is lost for good if you don't bed the rings in, and many would never even realize until they run exactly the same saw but a mates or whatever and are left wondering why he's seems to have a crap load more power, get em working hard under load and feel the saw getting stronger with every tank as the rings bed in and the engine frees up.
That's just my 2c doesn't really bother me what people do with their own gear..if you want a lough have a look on you-tube funny **** some guys like idling a few tanks of fuel through their new saws before cutting with half throttle for about 20 tanks haha...