Caber Piston Rings

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Kewl you'se guys... :)

Here is the piston and cylinder from the 028 Super I got for free. All tore apart and in a 5 gallon bucket...

Intake side:

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Exhaust side:

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Looking in the cylinder at the exhaust port.

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Guy I got it from told me the P&C were junk. Hmm... look okay to me. So I figgered a set of rings just for kicks would do the trick. :)

Gary

For the little bit of extra $, I'd drop in a new Meteor piston (that come with Caber rings as you now know),don't forget to do a bit of carving on her now that you have it all apart :cheers: and you'll have a great little saw !

Steve
 
Geez Gary, they look better than some of the P&C's I'm running right now!
Bob

:agree2: +1!

'specially in them there POOL-ON's with them, there reed valves... :D



For the little bit of extra $, I'd drop in a new Meteor piston (that come with Caber rings as you now know),don't forget to do a bit of carving on her now that you have it all apart :cheers: and you'll have a great little saw !

Steve

I agree...rings are about $10-15, a new Meteor should be about $40-door... I would change it IF it's out of tolerance. other than that, just rings would work.

Looks like you have QUITE a bit of room to widen the exhaust there!

J
 
I've got one good experience and one bad one with caber rings. The good is in my 385xp that I re-ringed last year. I've got about 14-15 tanks of fuel as of this month through the saw and the compression keeps going up. Really good fit and finish on the rings.

The bad experience was on a meteor piston / caber ring for a 372xp. The end gap was @ .15 MM through out the piston travel. The ring broke on first start up and made a chip in the nikasil. Baileys replaced the piston and rings. I have not had time to install the replacement piston and rings. The fit and finish of two meteor pistons that have come across my work bench is excellent.

My .02

Mike
 
Yep... I'm gonna park the 044 and use this one exclusively. :laugh:

But on a serious note... I never really gave it a thought to do any work on the cylinder with the exception of cleaning it up a little. I'm not much into modded saws... but I have always wondered about the little "tab" that is cast into the intake areas on some cylinders. Always wondered if removing that would be a plus or minus.

Gary
 
But on a serious note... I never really gave it a thought to do any work on the cylinder with the exception of cleaning it up a little. I'm not much into modded saws... but I have always wondered about the little "tab" that is cast into the intake areas on some cylinders. Always wondered if removing that would be a plus or minus.

Gary

I dont remove the tab, as it is intended to be extra support to help keep the ring from poppin into the intake. Some do though, and the reported that they run fine.

BTW, Gary, I would check the piston to cylinder clearance, as that piston looks awful shiney. Might be money ahead to spring for a meteor.
 
but I have always wondered about the little "tab" that is cast into the intake areas on some cylinders. Always wondered if removing that would be a plus or minus.

Gary

Same here on my coupla 028 projects. Kinda figured it to be some type of diffuser to more evenly(?) spray fuel into the cylinder.

Anyone have a take on the tab?

Oops. A little late again. Thanks for the explanation, Wiggs.

Poge
 
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BTW, Gary, I would check the piston to cylinder clearance, as that piston looks awful shiney. Might be money ahead to spring for a meteor.

The saw was run on "hot" gas... LOL. The guy loaned it to his Bro-in-law who used his snomobile race fuel in it. Said it never ran the same after that. That's when he tore it down, lost interest, and hucked it all into a 5 gallon bucket and stuck it in the corner of his shop. The piston looks okay to me, I've rebuilt top ends in saws with worse lookin' pistons than this one.

But if it's cheap insurance... I could spring for the Meteor. :)

Gary
 
The saw was run on "hot" gas... LOL. The guy loaned it to his Bro-in-law who used his snomobile race fuel in it. Said it never ran the same after that. That's when he tore it down, lost interest, and hucked it all into a 5 gallon bucket and stuck it in the corner of his shop. The piston looks okay to me, I've rebuilt top ends in saws with worse lookin' pistons than this one.

But if it's cheap insurance... I could spring for the Meteor. :)

Gary


Yeah, the only way to know for sure is to measure...3-4 thousanths under, good to go with new rings. 5-8 and beyond... Meteor time!! I've run them looser with just new rings but only on saws that the pistons are NLA. If you can get new for $40 or so you're way ahead of the game. Then you know what you have. I've had excellent results with Meteor good fit and finish, caber rings too..:cheers:
 
Like Cantdog said...

if it's .005" or more out, better to go with a new slug...it will run like a new saw.

IF the 'teet' is there to hold the ring in place, the ring would HAVE to come that far down the bore for the rings to 'enter' the port window...

if they don't, you can take it out.

J
 
That saw definitely does not need a new piston. That top end looks really really clean. Ring her and get her going!.


I bet the snowmachine race gas guy dingled the carb adjustments and when buddy got it back it was just out of tune is all.
 
That saw definitely does not need a new piston. That top end looks really really clean. Ring her and get her going!.

You must have some really good eyes to tell if that piston has more than .006 clearance between the piston and cylinder wall. :laugh:

To my untrained eye, it looks like there are no more machining marks on it, and its now nice and shiny, which indicates some substantial wear. Would it run again, Yep. But the question is for how long??? If it were mine, id slap a piston in it.
But, it aint mine. :)
 
Same here Wiggs.

You must have some really good eyes to tell if that piston has more than .006 clearance between the piston and cylinder wall. :laugh:

To my untrained eye, it looks like there are no more machining marks on it, and its now nice and shiny, which indicates some substantial wear. Would it run again, Yep. But the question is for how long??? If it were mine, id slap a piston in it.
But, it aint mine. :)

That piston does look excellent but until you measure it you can't tell. I'm rebuilding a 262XP for a pulp/firewood guy and his piston looked as good as that one. No scoring, smooth and clean as whistle. Unfortunately it measures almost 0.012" under at the bottom of the thrust faces, so it's new Meteor time for him. You can only tell by looking if it's roached, scored, seized, broken etc. Pretty hard to tell if it's just worn without using a mic or at least digital or dial calipers. You may be fine but I would not assume so without seeing the numbers. $12-$15 for a set of rings..........$35-$40 for a complete piston with rings....$20 bucks or so difference.....what's the saw worth to you?? Just sayin'.:cheers:
 
That piston does look excellent but until you measure it you can't tell. I'm rebuilding a 262XP for a pulp/firewood guy and his piston looked as good as that one. No scoring, smooth and clean as whistle. Unfortunately it measures almost 0.012" under at the bottom of the thrust faces, so it's new Meteor time for him. You can only tell by looking if it's roached, scored, seized, broken etc. Pretty hard to tell if it's just worn without using a mic or at least digital or dial calipers. You may be fine but I would not assume so without seeing the numbers. $12-$15 for a set of rings..........$35-$40 for a complete piston with rings....$20 bucks or so difference.....what's the saw worth to you?? Just sayin'.:cheers:

+1, and +1 to everyone else that agrees with me. :D :spam:

I'm building a J-red 670. the piston was scored in this saw, and although it MAY have been straight gassed, it measured 49.13mm inside a 50mm bore. :jawdrop: which was REDICULOUSLY out of tolerance. judging by the rest of the saw, and speaking to the original owner, it has NOT seen THAT much use.

the other piston I have (and others that have been offered up...) have looked perfect. but a measurement on the BEST one was .012" out... WAAAAY too much. Come to find out the other day, Some 'other' guy *cough* supposed 'dealer' *cough* put this top end on the (625) saw after the 1st was smoked...:dizzy: Great job, there, buddy.




Gary, specs aren't necessary to look up, like a good carpenter or machinist, you can go off the material-at-hand... measure the bore, and you'll want to look for .002-.003 less in the piston anything MORE than .005 i'd replace.

a piston ported saw is reliant on a good port seal...not like dem der reed valve-ed saws. :D

we wanna see it run!!

Jay
 
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