Calibrated eyeballs for exact 18" cuts ??

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stint

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Just wonder how you guys get such pretty lookin' loads and stacks... with all pieces lookin' like *exact* same lengths

Are you able to get that close after long practice, or do yo use some mechanical measuring devices like the rods I have seen attached perpendicular to chain saw blades, or lay saw horizontal for quick measure from blade length before cut , or..... ??
 
15.95" stick in my left hand, tedious, but it works for me.

Tried the paint marking, the dot or line was too big, and ended up with pieces 1/2" too long. Customers...:mad:
 
:)I thought that was what a firewood processor was for.

I personally don't worry about it but I don't sell either.

Since by firebox is not square, longs go crosswise and shorts go straight in and out to form a crib. Having a variety is not a bad thing for me.

Don
 
18" bar on the saw....

rotate saw 90 degrees after first cut and see where end of bar is, thats where you have to cut the log...

repeat

etc

works out quite well and you dont have to mark or carry something extra.

:cheers:
 
My method isn't terribly precise. I make a mark on my bar with a permanent marker..... and just hold the saw paralell to the wood and eyeball where the next cut needs to be. Personally, I've never been too concerned about being off by a half inch or so.
 
.....
I personally don't worry about it but I don't sell either.

Since by firebox is not square, longs go crosswise and shorts go straight in and out to form a crib. Having a variety is not a bad thing for me.

Don


:agree2: I just eyeball them, but the calibration of the eyeballs isn't always exact....:givebeer:
 
My logs are no where close to exact, my eyeballs only seem to be calibrated within 3"s or so. :Eye::Eye:
 
A lot of stuff like branches I take the close is good enough approach using the bar as a rough guide. Once I get all of the branches and such cleared off the trunk I go with a tape measure and sidewalk chalk. It only takes a moment and then I can just start ripping away with my only thoughts being where is my head, legs and feet.
 
I cut mine to 20" and use the bar to judge the lenght. I usually get pretty close. Close enough for who it's for anyway. :)
 
I cut for 16" lengths.

The 339 & 359 are both 16" from tail of saw to muffler. Usually I go from left to right.

Line up tail of saw with last cut Left turn at muffler area, cut again.

An inch or so off works fine for me.
 
I don't think I've measured firewood for about 20 years, once I got used to cutting. My logs aren't all the same length, but within a few inches. Always end up with odd lengths at the ends, anyway.

If I would care, I would just use the bar. Who has the time to mark all of their cuts?
 
Thanks for all feedback

Very Informative and helpful for me
 
i try to cut about 18" as my insert will only take a 20" log. my splitter will only take a 20" log aswell. occasionally ill cut one 3/4 too big it seems but 95% of the time my eyeball is pretty good.

my buddy on the otherhand is all over the place he just dosent ever seem to improve lol.
 
Years of practice and I have an 18" bar on one of my saws so I can set the saw sideways one the log and know where 18" is
 
Strictly eyeball here. Get a few long ones but studies so far indicate that burning is up to par, LOL. We have been known to "shave" the stack with a saw to even things up but only in extreme cases of misjudgment.
 
Double

I have a hook I use for lifting logs I have marked the hook with the length I want the wood to be. Then I measure with the hook and scratch the wood with a small one hand saw (like a Silky) then I just cut it up at the marks - perfect size everytime:)

I do this when cutting up for friends and colleagues and for our own fireplace. We have a small wagon (like this: http://www.hwam.com/products/accessories/hwam+firewood+box+) standing next to the fireplace and it looks better with the wood being the same lenght.

I don't know the english term for the thingy that heats the whole house but the wood I burn in that one I cut by measuring with the bar on the saw.
 
I use a stick (dowel rod) and a piece of chalk. It seems to me to be faster to mark up a whole tree in a couple minutes than to be constantly turning the saw to guage the proper distance while you're cutting.

I do manage to eyeball it pretty well, though. I was once cutting some topped trees with a buddy. He had my stick and chalk, so I was cutting another tree without marks. When he finished, I checked it against what I had cut (about 8-10 rounds) and each of them were within 1/4" and most were less than 1/8" off. I was pretty darned impressed (so was my buddy!), but I would 'chalk' that up to luck by being that close.
 
i have never given it much thought, if you have a generous firebox it really isnt a big deal if your a few inches off ,i cut for 24-25 inches for my IWF but if i end up with 26 or so by mistake i simply load it at angle into the furnace, too short and it gets tossed in or goes in sideways,ive never marked mine out and i can visually see if theres small differences of less than an inch but i have an unfair advantage that my day job for last decade and a half as a tool and die/mold maker really helps with measuring things up too!
 
I just eyeball the log, and err on the short side whenever I second guess myself. Usually I end up within a couple inches either way.

I cut with Nuzzy who uses one of those cute Mingo markers.

It works great! Just poops a little paint dot exactly at whatever length it's set at. Neat tool that would make any Anal retentive and house proud dutchman Happy with perfect wood piles.

Drove me nuts on a gnarly Elm though, somehow, the thing marked every crotch on the tree, and it removes any artistic expression concerning cutting around a compressed portion.
Just sucked the fun right outta things IMO.

Cuttin' wood ain't cabinet work.;)

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
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