Can I run a 25" bar on my MS361

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Proof that a 361 with a 25 inch bar and cut a lot of wood... that is solid Calif. black oak in there.

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"Can I run a 25" bar on my 361?"

No you can't, if the 20" bar is maxxed out, then that's your lot. 25" bars are illegal on 59cc saws. Get a 460 instead.


Illegal What are you high? I have a 28 on mine and it cuts oak, beech, hichery ect. just GREAT.... where do you get that from? I wanna see the chainsaw Police come tell me what bar that I can put on my saw......
 
Naaah, if it was an addiction you have to go to meetings and feel guilty. Thats why drunks are so happy, no meetings.

Well I know one thing, its very contaigious.:help:
Im starting to show the symptoms, I head up to the shed to work on my 4by, and I walk out hours later with sharp, clean saws, and the 4by still not going. Doh!!
 
Illegal What are you high? I have a 28 on mine and it cuts oak, beech, hichery ect. just GREAT.... where do you get that from? I wanna see the chainsaw Police come tell me what bar that I can put on my saw......



I could by makin ya look like a big slowww poke. caus even a gad dam 440 with 28'' aint cuttin no beech or no hic"h"ery with authority. You can call "cutting" what you want but it's not in tunewuth mine:monkey:
 
I no some guys that run 361's all day every day with 28" bars, square ground full skip chain.
Of course a longer bar requires a gentler touch and a smoother technique.
A good smooth and efficient chain will make or brake you with a long bar. A short bar with lots of power will compensate for a poor chain.
If you are melting stuff it is from operator error.
 
Hey Windthrown, that looks just like the Black Oak I have been cutting, 25" skip, no prob.

Joesawer, how the he!! are ya, have not seen you for a while. I keep checkin the Stockade everytime I go by......no Joe.

Where you been workin at? We have to get together for a piece a dead cow and a brew again. I'll PM ya, I'm a little slow this week, have some free time.
 
I was logging in a stand of 24"+ black oak in Wisconsin and I was cutting and topping 4-6 trees with a stock 660 on one tank of gas. For kicks (Actually it was shear exhaustion, LOL, I was on a steep side hill and got tired of walking back and forth to the fuel jug and caring the 660 after about 14 straight hours of cutting) anyways, I started using my 361 with a 25" bar, and I could cut and top 15ish trees before needing to refuel, sure in the cut it was possibly 2 secs slower but at the end of the day I would venture a guess that the 361 would get more wood out of the woods overall. I have since had the 361 ported and such and I'm quite certain in rough terrain it could beat some of the larger saws that are rough on gas. Now that is cutting timber, in rough terrain. If you are in a more controlled setting like firewood cutting where a mini station of fuel and "service" can be set up and you aren't walking from tree to tree, then the bigger saws would probably win out.

As to the "will the 361 handle a 25" bar?", I would say without a problem, it is not the fastest saw with a 25" bar, but it is very efficient as in gallons of fuel - per cord of wood cut and such. Therefore if you are racing and the time limit is 5 minutes the bigger saws will win out, if you are cutting all day and multiple fuel ups will be required the addition cuts that the 361 will get in while the 660's are dead quiet getting fueled up for 3-4 minutes will allow it to hold its own. Addition, the saw is very user friendly (light and Anit-vibe), which makes for a pleasant time while working.

I have cut whole jobs with the 660's both stock and modified and I have logged a lot of time with a stock 361 and not so much with it moddified, but I would like to cut several whole jobs with each saw and log the speeds and overall difference that a lighter, more fuel effecient, yet slightly slower in 20" and bigger wood saw would have to the outcome of say a 50,000+ board foot job. Especially side hills where differences in a few pounds in not maybe ounces make a difference when you are tired.

Simply my opinion and observations from using the aforementioned saws in those settings.

Sam
 
Hey Windthrown, that looks just like the Black Oak I have been cutting, 25" skip, no prob.

Joesawer, how the he!! are ya, have not seen you for a while. I keep checkin the Stockade everytime I go by......no Joe.

Where you been workin at? We have to get together for a piece a dead cow and a brew again. I'll PM ya, I'm a little slow this week, have some free time.

I am on my way right now!
 
Ok guys I got your point. There is spell check. I am a newbie fng. I am just excited about these posts and wanna give me 2 cents worth. I just love the 361 and well hell had a few. Oh well :deadhorse:
 
This thread is kind of like asking if you can screw a 120 pound Doberman. I would imagine you could, but sooner or later someone's going to ask why. :hmm3grin2orange:

The only question I have: Why such a big Doberman? I like mine a little smaller, easier to man-handle.
 
I was logging in a stand of 24"+ black oak in Wisconsin and I was cutting and topping 4-6 trees with a stock 660 on one tank of gas. For kicks (Actually it was shear exhaustion, LOL, I was on a steep side hill and got tired of walking back and forth to the fuel jug and caring the 660 after about 14 straight hours of cutting) anyways, I started using my 361 with a 25" bar, and I could cut and top 15ish trees before needing to refuel, sure in the cut it was possibly 2 secs slower but at the end of the day I would venture a guess that the 361 would get more wood out of the woods overall. I have since had the 361 ported and such and I'm quite certain in rough terrain it could beat some of the larger saws that are rough on gas. Now that is cutting timber, in rough terrain. If you are in a more controlled setting like firewood cutting where a mini station of fuel and "service" can be set up and you aren't walking from tree to tree, then the bigger saws would probably win out.

As to the "will the 361 handle a 25" bar?", I would say without a problem, it is not the fastest saw with a 25" bar, but it is very efficient as in gallons of fuel - per cord of wood cut and such. Therefore if you are racing and the time limit is 5 minutes the bigger saws will win out, if you are cutting all day and multiple fuel ups will be required the addition cuts that the 361 will get in while the 660's are dead quiet getting fueled up for 3-4 minutes will allow it to hold its own. Addition, the saw is very user friendly (light and Anit-vibe), which makes for a pleasant time while working.

I have cut whole jobs with the 660's both stock and modified and I have logged a lot of time with a stock 361 and not so much with it moddified, but I would like to cut several whole jobs with each saw and log the speeds and overall difference that a lighter, more fuel effecient, yet slightly slower in 20" and bigger wood saw would have to the outcome of say a 50,000+ board foot job. Especially side hills where differences in a few pounds in not maybe ounces make a difference when you are tired.

Simply my opinion and observations from using the aforementioned saws in those settings.

Sam

Dang good post! Thank you. The fuel efficiency argument usually doesn't get any coverage. BTW, who did your port job on the 361?
 
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You poor lost sole!!!!
There are two bars made, Stihl ES, and everything else!!!

GB makes a decent bar, but unless it's a titanium, I wont buy anymore!

1)Stihl ES
2)GB titanium
3) a tie for 2nd other than price, Cannon, unless you can find a Tsumara, the it's 2, but good luck.
4) the other stuff sold.
 
Hay Windthrown,
What do you think of the Pro-Top bar?
Is it cheaper than a Stihl one?
:yourock:

I actually like my GB Pro-Toppers better than my Stihl ES bars. They are a tad lighter and less oval than the Stihls, and have grease ports on the tip (I prefer grease to bar oil on sprocket tips). This one was cheaper too, but I got it and some other GB bars wholesale on an AS one-time online sale over a year ago. That sale led to a lot of AS flap. That bar in the photo has been bent and straightened also, and you cannot even tell where the bend was. The tip is the same as on the GB Ti bars.

Any solid bar will be way better than a riveted/laminated one. Between solid bars, there is some debate as to which is best and why. Lots of AS threads and opinions on this particular bar on this particular saw in this particular photo. I have posted it to many threads on AS in the past year. That setup works great for me, and I have felled a phuck-load of trees with them. That is RM Stihl chain, full comp. I have RM skip too, but I use it less, as I like more cutters and I tend to cut wood in crappy conditions (RM puts up with dirt and grit better than most other type chains do, IMO, and more cutters stay sharper longer).
 
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