First question- do you have the knowledge and ability to repair the motor on a chainsaw?
Lots of opinions, but nobody has actually asked.
Lots of opinions, but nobody has actually asked.
Cannot start MS260
- Thread starter deanbrown
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I want to see the cylinder, so much speculation going on now. we all see the piston has left the chat but I really want to see the jug, I’m guessing all the guys like seeing jugs(I hope) sometimes you get lucky on them ( 1 in a hundred) let’s get this thing going for him.
No reply so far....
He's busy ripping it down, hopefully!No reply so far....
More likely he's busy trying to sell it on craigslist as 'ran great when put away...probably just needs a carb cleaning'
See post 17
That piston (and most likely the jug) didn't get that way from it sitting idle on a shelf somewhere. Like Paul Harvey always said... Now for the rest of the story.... I'm curious as well, how much metal transfer there is inside the jug as well. From the looks of the slug, I'd say a lot. Of course it wouldn't start as it has not enough compression to pop anyway.
You can usually get the cylinder back 95% or better if it's just transfer. Meteor pistons are fine.
The only hard part if you don't have the right tool are the frigging wrist pin clips.
Not much to the rest of it.
The only hard part if you don't have the right tool are the frigging wrist pin clips.
Not much to the rest of it.
You mean this...
I wonder if his "true fuel" is the version without oil or if it is another ran lean with maximum recommended length bar dogging in hard to force cut with a dull chain with limiter caps it can not be adjusted rich enough.
Compression is prob 40 -55. Just an educated guess.
Hey, that is a great point about the fuel! He should check that.
Won't know anything more until he chimes in, if he does that is... When I read his 'starting fluid' comment I began to wonder. Starting fluid has it's place, just not with a 2 stroke. I actually winter store my bikes using Tru-Fuel with no oil in it. Saves me untold grief with gunked up carbs.
The straight (no added oil) Tru-Fuel states that right on the container. I don't believe you can buy Red Armor or Stihl canned fuel without oil in it, but then I'm not entirely sure on that. I just know you can with Tru-Fuel.
Like I've said before, I only use canned fuel in my saws because they don't get run often. Same with my Stihl FS66 brush trimmer. No added oil and no oil Tru-Fuel is easy to mix up if you don't read the label. I also use it in my outdoor power equipment that stays in the barn all winter so a gallon of it gets used in lots of engine fuel tanks. I've had more than my share of phase separated fuel in seasonal use equipment and it's always a job getting them to run in the spring with e-gas in the tanks.
The straight (no added oil) Tru-Fuel states that right on the container. I don't believe you can buy Red Armor or Stihl canned fuel without oil in it, but then I'm not entirely sure on that. I just know you can with Tru-Fuel.
Like I've said before, I only use canned fuel in my saws because they don't get run often. Same with my Stihl FS66 brush trimmer. No added oil and no oil Tru-Fuel is easy to mix up if you don't read the label. I also use it in my outdoor power equipment that stays in the barn all winter so a gallon of it gets used in lots of engine fuel tanks. I've had more than my share of phase separated fuel in seasonal use equipment and it's always a job getting them to run in the spring with e-gas in the tanks.
Damn EPA and that stupid alcohol gas! I can't tell you how many bad carbs I have had to replace over the years.
Ok so I never used TruFuel before, just got a couple of cans this week to see if it would make a difference. It's the 50:1 mix red can, but note it's never actually run yet with this. All other times it's been regular gas with 1:50 oil. Maybe premium on rare occasion.
Do I have decent 2-cycle engine knowledge? I'd like to. I want to try to get this working myself. I've worked on the cylinder heads of cars before, but never cylinders directly.
If it's really necessary, I'd tackle putting in a new cylinder and piston. But I'd like to see how she runs first. The scoring on the cylinder looks terrible in the pic I know, but it's actually a lot smoother than it looks. I want to check the compression - but the valve on my tester is missing, got one coming later today.
Do I have decent 2-cycle engine knowledge? I'd like to. I want to try to get this working myself. I've worked on the cylinder heads of cars before, but never cylinders directly.
If it's really necessary, I'd tackle putting in a new cylinder and piston. But I'd like to see how she runs first. The scoring on the cylinder looks terrible in the pic I know, but it's actually a lot smoother than it looks. I want to check the compression - but the valve on my tester is missing, got one coming later today.
Do you expect it to run in that condition? What is the reason for a comp test, it's stone dead, you need to rip into it!
I'm a paranoid SOB. I'd probably only keep two stroke premix on hand, and just burn that in the four strokes when needed. That teensy bit of oil won't hurt the four strokes in the slightest, but that practice might save one of my two strokes from an unfortunate accident, especially if for some reason it's someone else fueling them. It all costs the same anyway.
It ran fine when I put it away a year ago.
I'm telling you, that piston is 100 percent shot, I have built hundreds of saws! Take my word for it, take it apart.
Ok ok ok, let me get my head around the next steps to breaking it down.
