Chain cut problem.

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parabatix

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May 10, 2009
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Hi,
Appreciate anyone's thoughts on why my Stihl is only (barely) cutting at the tip but not at all anywhere else along the bar.
It's not an old chain and the bar appears to be in ok condition. I keep the chain sharp and oil's flowing fine. Tension is ok too.
I've used saws for quite a few years and not had this problem before.
I'm wondering if my mental capacity is shot to bits with advancing years and that I'm missing something ridiculously obvious!?
Thanks.
Andrew
 
Hi,
Appreciate anyone's thoughts on why my Stihl is only (barely) cutting at the tip but not at all anywhere else along the bar.
It's not an old chain and the bar appears to be in ok condition. I keep the chain sharp and oil's flowing fine. Tension is ok too.
I've used saws for quite a few years and not had this problem before.
I'm wondering if my mental capacity is shot to bits with advancing years and that I'm missing something ridiculously obvious!?
Thanks.
Andrew

Have you deburred and flipped the bar recently? Just take a file and file the edge of the bar back flat. I'd try that first.

And welcome to the site.
 
Hi,
Appreciate anyone's thoughts on why my Stihl is only (barely) cutting at the tip but not at all anywhere else along the bar.
It's not an old chain and the bar appears to be in ok condition. I keep the chain sharp and oil's flowing fine. Tension is ok too.
I've used saws for quite a few years and not had this problem before.
I'm wondering if my mental capacity is shot to bits with advancing years and that I'm missing something ridiculously obvious!?
Thanks.
Andrew

Andrew

Welcome to AS!

Have you checked the depth gauges (aka rakers). The reason why I ask is that you say "it's barely cutting at the tip". If the DG's aren't set .025-.030 below the cutter there isn't any way the cutter can get a bite. EDIT... However, because the chain is going around the tip, the DGs aren't in play and allol the cutters to bite.

Also, check my sig for other info.

Rep sent for this being your first post.

btw........if you only want to own one saw leave now! Chainsaw Addiction Disorder is contagious. aka CAD

Dan
 
Last edited:
It would help if you could post a photo of the chain on the bar on the saw. Even a dull chain will cut some along the bar unless it is so dull or otherwise screwed up [hit a rock or nail, etc.] that it is misshapen. If you've had the chain off the saw recently, be sure it is on correctly and not backwards.

But if we have a photo, we can figure it out the problem in about two seconds, probably.
 
I'm amazed at how many times over the years I've paid to have my chains ground, got them back, depth gages hadn't been touched, Cutters looked perfect.
As chain grinders became more affordable ( No Chineez JUNK) bought myself an Oregon, money well spent, Learned alot too! I finally learned to watch what the saw was spitting out. If I have to stop half way thru a stump to tune up a chain with a hand file, its time well spent. I've made alot of saw dust in my time. You want it done right, learn to do it yourself!
 
Check to be sure the cutting side of the bar is not "MUSHROOMED". Sometimes the Kerf from the chain is not wide enough to let the said Mushrrom through it, acts like a fence and keeps it from penetrating.. Also like others have stated, if it going the right direction and the Rakes are low enough to allow the cutter to bite it will do something...

Rick
 
Thanks so much for the warm welcome and advice friends.
Right, I have enough excuses now to take myself off to the garage/workshop and play with some of your suggested solutions (anything to get away from teenagers on a sunday afternoon!):clap:
Will get the file out and also check the rakers.
.........and no, I haven't put the chain on b to f:)

then it's a process of elimimation- again
Thanks again
 
Is this an old, many times sharpened chain that's never had its rakers lowered?

....and therin lies the problem methinks.
I'm guessing what you call rakers would be what we call depth gauge and if so, then over 20 odd years I have to admit to having used my saws without ever having had them lowered. I've just read further than page 10 in my Stihl manual and realise what an imbecile I've been. I blame my Anglo Saxon ancestry:buttkick:
Having said all that, I guess I've been very lucky- never really had any problems before now.
I would post a pic but I'm too embarassed!
Time for some homework on ' how to look after your chainsaw and grow old gracefully'.
Many thanks friends.
Andrew
 
I'm guessing the rakers are as high as the cutters.

When the chain goes along the bar the rakers keep the cutter from getting into the wood - as the chain goes over the nose of the bar the cutter is able to contact the wood because the raker is not as effective.

I would file the rakers - should be about the thickness of a dime between the raker and the tip of the cutter.

Good luck!:popcorn:
 
I agree that it sounds like the drags(that's what I call um) need looking into. All good advice, file edges reset drags and try again. I took a wore out chain once and ground all the drags off and cut with it and it will cut. BUT to much off is like not enough. It don't work to good you have to be the drag and it's hard to guess at it.:chainsaw:
 
I am going to place my money on

.50 gauge chain in a .58 or .63 bar. and the chain is going sideways.. Never seen a raker high enough to stop one from at least making dust.
 
You're not running low kickback or anti kickback chain are you? I've ran a couple of saws with that crap on them and you can hardly cut with the nose it seems like.
 
Problem solved.
Took it along to main dealer today who confirmed high rakers. Have filed down using the gauge and seems to be fine but will give it a good test some day soon.
Really grateful for all of your replies and advice.
I'll have to invent another problem soon just to have an excuse to come back into the forum:popcorn:
Andrew
 

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