Chain Gauge??

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gregn

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Whats the easiest way to determine a chain's gauge by looking at the chain if you dont already know what it is?
 
Whats the easiest way to determine a chain's gauge by looking at the chain if you dont already know what it is?

Micrometer....Unless your really good with memorizing info on paper (see Sawtroll for tips) and then commit every manufacturers numbers and specs to memory....:msp_mellow:
 
Micrometer....Unless your really good with memorizing info on paper (see Sawtroll for tips) and then commit every manufacturers numbers and specs to memory....:msp_mellow:

:laugh::laugh: Hardly every!

If the chain is Oregon or Stihl, it is easy to ID the gauge from the numbers on the drive tangs (unless the chain is too old).
 
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If you can still read the numbers on the chain, STIHL, Oregon, Carlton, and other companies have this information on their websites.

attachment.php


If you are really lucky, you can look at your guide bar and see the information etched there (pitch, gauge, number of drive links).

Bailey's also published a 'coin trick' a several months back:

attachment.php


Philbert
 
I don't have too many saws (does anyone really have too many) so I have remembered the few that I see. I look up the others online.
Like the 91 listed above I ran across last week. 91 is 3/8 low pro IIRC
 
I don't have too many saws (does anyone really have too many) so I have remembered the few that I see. I look up the others online.

If you only have a few saws and always buy the same brand and style of chain, it is pretty easy to tell which chains go with which saws. Sometimes you can tell which chains go with which saws just by loop length.

If you have a bunch of saws, or scrounge/clean-up/re-use old chains, sharpen chains for others, shorten or lengthen loops, etc., it can be more of a challenge. Same thing if you find 'a deal' on some new chain, or some old chains at a garage sale, and wonder if they will fit any of your saws. That's when the manufacturers' guide sheets come in handy. Bailey's also has a nice cross reference chart which helps you compare similar chains to see what will fit.

Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's

Here is a guide to the STIHL chain number system:

http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdfs/SawChainSelection.pdf

Philbert.
 
I can tell 3/8, .325, and .404 by looking at them. But the gauge and any of the lo pros I would have to go by the numbers. Most chains are marked with certain numbers and them you can just look them up.
 
Bailey's also published a 'coin trick' a several months back:
Not to drag up an old thread, but someone asked about this, and I could no longer find it on-line, and the thread link is 'dead'.
'Bailey's 36 cent bar gauge trick' - for 'quick and dirty estimation':
dime - .050 (0.053)
penny - .058 (0.0598 inches)
quarter - .063 (0.069 inches)

A feeler gauge is more precise.

Another option is to buy a few, new drive links of 0.043, 0.050, 0.058, and 0.063 chain, and keep them on a key ring for reference. This would also be helpful for seeing what chains will fit into a worn guide bar.

Philbert
 
I don't have too many saws (does anyone really have too many) so I have remembered the few that I see. I look up the others online.
Like the 91 listed above I ran across last week. 91 is 3/8 low pro IIRC

That is why you are half full get some saws until you have too too many and then you will be set. Maybe this is why I am not married. I have only eleven right now and just the other day turned down a nice saw. Thanks
 
That is why you are half full get some saws until you have too too many and then you will be set. Maybe this is why I am not married. I have only eleven right now and just the other day turned down a nice saw. Thanks
This summer I was up to 40 saws. With a wife and 5 kids that means we each had a 5 saw plan plus I had 5 spares :laughing::laughing:
 
Have several of those plastic gauges. They used to give them away years ago when we had an Oregon sales rep (used to buy saw chain by the pallet too though). They are ok, though I prefer a cheap dial caliper (like $20 off Amazon)
 
I do not know why anybody would worry about chain gauges anyway since they never work. You get a brand new chain and cut some wood with it until it starts throwing fine sawdust instead of chips. It is time to sharpen without touching the rakers and you will notice that it did not pull quite as hard as it did the first time and it got dull a little faster than first time. So you take one stroke on the rakers and it pulls just right then you know you are in the ball park. If your saw shakes like your pick up has a flat tire then you know you went too far. So next time go much less on the rakers. If your cutter angle is too steep it will plug up easily if your cutter angle is too shallow then it will get dull pretty fast unless in very hard wood. Of course it is mandatory to compare to your new spare chains to see how they compare. That is all that one needs to know until they have worn out a hundred chains or so. Thanks
 
I like the Oregon and Granberg plastic 'gauges' for measuring chain pitch:
Chain Gauge Measuring Tools.png
But for guide bar groove, I prefer something more solid. Especially when seeing what will fit a worn bar, or to drag it around the bar to look for pinches or tight spots. This is an example of a set of sample chains that a very nice A.S. member picked up for me at a trade show. I am thinking a much smaller version of this would be really handy to have hanging on a nail for measuring bar groove / gauge:
Chain Samples.jpg

I do not know why anybody would worry about chain gauges anyway . . .

Ted, I like this information when sorting used or scrounged chains and bars. If they are all my own, and were bought new, I usually know what I have. When you have a mongrel collection, it helps to sort them out.

Philbert
 
I like the Oregon and Granberg plastic 'gauges' for measuring chain pitch:
View attachment 619473
But for guide bar groove, I prefer something more solid. Especially when seeing what will fit a worn bar, or to drag it around the bar to look for pinches or tight spots. This is an example of a set of sample chains that a very nice A.S. member picked up for me at a trade show. I am thinking a much smaller version of this would be really handy to have hanging on a nail:
View attachment 619476



Ted, I like this information when sorting used or scrounged chains and bars. If they are all my own, and were bought new, I usually know what I have. When you have a mongrel collection, it helps to sort them out.

Philbert
Ooh, pretty!
 
I like the Oregon and Granberg plastic 'gauges' for measuring chain pitch:
View attachment 619473
But for guide bar groove, I prefer something more solid. Especially when seeing what will fit a worn bar, or to drag it around the bar to look for pinches or tight spots. This is an example of a set of sample chains that a very nice A.S. member picked up for me at a trade show. I am thinking a much smaller version of this would be really handy to have hanging on a nail for measuring bar groove / gauge:
View attachment 619476



Ted, I like this information when sorting used or scrounged chains and bars. If they are all my own, and were bought new, I usually know what I have. When you have a mongrel collection, it helps to sort them out.

Philbert

I use the red Oregon card plus carry one in my wallet, it’s credit card size. If I’m at a flea market or garage sale I can use it for any chain I see that interest me. fordf150 carries them.
 
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