Chain Grinders

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
With multiple operators you're going to be better off with a ABN. You don't have to dress, or shape it. Also the chance of burning the chain is slim to none.
Regards
Gregg

 

[blsnelling]

Howdy,
With multiple operators you're going to be better off with a ABN. You don't have to dress, or shape it. Also the chance of burning the chain is slim to none.
Regards
Gregg

Hey Gregg. Are you selling any of these grinders in your new store? I always loved doing business with you.

 

[Warped5]

Ted.....the dressing sticks now say to wet them first. I haven't seen that before.

Thanks!

 

[blsnelling]

I think I've pretty much narrowed it down to Tecomec or Oregon, which are basically the same grinder. It's either a 511AX/Jolly Star or 620-120/Super Jolly.

511AX
http://www.russopower.com/products/oregon-511ax-chain-sharpener/

Jolly Star
http://www.amickssuperstore.com/Tecomec_Jolly_Star_Grinder_p/tecomec jolly star grinder.htm

620-120
http://www.russopower.com/products/oregon-heavy-duty-bench-grinder-with-hydraulic-assist-551462/

Super Jolly
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...in-Grinders/SUPERJolly-Chain-Grinder-120V.axd

 

[Wood Doctor]

Say, Brad, are these chainsaw operators still able to file sharpen any of their own chains in the field when the chains get dull?

If the sawyers cannot file sharpen their chains, then this company needs to hire a full-time chain sharpener and pay $20 grand a year at least to keep these saws running efficiently. Got the picture? My chief logger who cuts 280,000 bd ft a year for a sawmill advised me on this issue. After running the numbers, I have to agree with him.

 

[fearofpavement]

I'll throw out an opinion here. I have had two different types of HF grinders. The one with the bicycle brake handle is pretty worthless unless one were to move the handle off the tilting head.
I have an Oregon 511AX. That is a very nice grinder. It's well built and works well.
I have a Northern Tool clone and for the money I think this is the BEST VALUE for a chain grinder.
I have a Foley Belsaw chain grinder (a simple one) but haven't used it yet. I hope to set that one up just for rakers.

So my suggestion would be to have them get a Northern Tool clone grinder and it will do what they need to do.
In my opinion, if you don't know how to file a chain, you're also going to have a tough time grinding one.

The HF grinder will not work well for rakers since they don't make a wide wheel for it that I've found.

 

[blsnelling]

Say, Brad, are these chainsaw operators still able to file sharpen any of their own chains in the field when the chains get dull?

If not, this company needs to hire a full-time chain sharpener and pay $20 grand a year at least. Forget my advice on a really good grinder for the money. Got the picture?

I do not know these guys day in and day out operation that well. I just saw what they had and the wood they were processing and knew they needed help!

 

[Homelite410]

The 511 vise suckes ass. [emoji87] 510 has a much better vise. My 511 has not wore out a wheel yet and the vise is shot. I use a .075" wire in the bottom of the vise so it will "toe" clamp the chain beneath the tie strap on the driver. [emoji35]

Personally I would teach them to file with a top plate style guide, that way if they have to sharpen their own, maybe they will keep them out of the dirt and not run them until they stop cutting..... A rocked chain, I get that but running them until they stop cutting is just dumb.

Just my .02

 

[stihlaficionado]

I think I've pretty much narrowed it down to Tecomec or Oregon, which are basically the same grinder. It's either a 511AX/Jolly Star or 620-120/Super Jolly.

511AX
http://www.russopower.com/products/oregon-511ax-chain-sharpener/

Jolly Star
http://www.amickssuperstore.com/Tecomec_Jolly_Star_Grinder_p/tecomec jolly star grinder.htm

620-120
http://www.russopower.com/products/oregon-heavy-duty-bench-grinder-with-hydraulic-assist-551462/

Super Jolly
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...in-Grinders/SUPERJolly-Chain-Grinder-120V.axd

That's a good price on the 511AX. That's what I bought mine for 5 years ago

 

[sunfish]

The 511 vise suckes ass.

510 has a much better vise. My 511 has not wore out a wheel yet and the vise is shot.

That's one of the main reasons I got the Maxx. The vise works very well!
That and it'll grind the cutter on both sides the same direction.

 

[Philbert]

For that kind of use they want something that is reliable out of the box, and supported. Not something that they have to shim and fuss with to get working right. I have been very happy with Oregon support on their products. I can call an 800-number and always speak to someone live. They send out parts very quickly if needed.

A lot of guys will comment here on A.S. that their clone was 'cheaper', but you don't hear them bragging that it is 'better'.

I played around with the cheap, Harbor Freight type grinders in another thread, just for fun, as a chain geek. But I would never recommend those for heavy, or professional use.

Oregon replaced their entire grinder line this year. There is a new model that replaced the 511A, and 511AX. They went back to the basic vise - several people had issues with wear with high-volume use.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-oregon-grinders-2015.270287/

Some if the Silveys have great reputations, but they are NLA. And the STIHL grinders are almost twice as much.

So I would recommend one (or two!) of the top of the line Oregon grinders (model 520 or 620). A lot of higher volume sharpeners like a second grinder so that they don't have to switch wheels, or so that 2 guys can sharpen during down time.

Philbert

 

[Skeans]

I'll throw in idea an oregon can do both saw chains as well as harvester chains. Now my personal oregon 510 is only used for rakers so that's another advantage to them.

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[Wood Doctor]

I do not know these guys day in and day out operation that well. I just saw what they had and the wood they were processing and knew they needed help!

OK, look at it this way. Loggers who file sharpen their own chains in the field save a bundle for the companies that they work for, including their own. Here's why.

A full-time chain sharpener technician in house would cost about $25 grand a year while running a good sharpener. As an option, all dull chains could be sent out of house. If it costs $10 a chain to have one professionally sharpened, the company can afford to sharpen 2500 chains a year and break even or about nine chains a day.

So, is this company paying to sharpen 2,500 chains a year out of house? You may want to ask that question to the boss.

 

[Homelite410]

Franzen full auto baby!

 

[Skeans]

OK, look at it this way. Loggers who file sharpen their own chains in the field save a bundle for the companies that they work for, including their own. Here's why.

A full-time chain sharpener technician in house would cost about $25 grand a year while running a good sharpener. As an option, all dull chains could be sent out of house. If it costs $10 a chain to have one professionally sharpened, the company can afford to sharpen 2500 chains a year and break even or about nine chains a day.

So, is this company paying to sharpen 2,500 chains a year out of house? You may want to ask that question to the boss.

If a company is doing it such as mine I require all employees to do all their own chains it's part of their job including myself. It doesn't take too long too do chains in the evening a bad day will take an hour at most unless they are 185 drivers for a 60" bar.

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[Wood Doctor]

If a company is doing it such as mine I require all employees to do all their own chains it's part of their job including myself. It doesn't take too long too do chains in the evening a bad day will take an hour at most unless they are 185 drivers for a 60" bar.

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Exactly. Or, sawyers must learn to file sharpen them in the field. Paying a full-time worker to sharpen chains for sawyers usually makes no sense at all. The money is just not there.

 

[Skeans]

Exactly. Or, sawyers must learn to file sharpen them in the field. Paying a full-time worker to sharpen chains for sawyers usually makes no sense at all. The money is just not there.

Most companies on the west coast have the grinders in house or the operators do from being self contracted. But if I had to have one grinder to replace my Silvey stuff it'd be an Oregon.

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[FishNJ]

By the time I pull a chain off, run it through the grinder, then do the rakers, I am by far faster by far with the Stihl 2 in 1 File by hand on the saw. Also learn much more appreciation to keep the chain out of the dirt. JMHO.


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[alderman]

I've got three used Oregon 511 Grinders that were in great shape when I purchased them. Paid $100-$125 for each. Might be worthwhile to look at Craigslist.

 

[Skeans]

By the time I pull a chain off, run it through the grinder, then do the rakers, I am by far faster by far with the Stihl 2 in 1 File by hand on the saw. Also learn much more appreciation to keep the chain out of the dirt. JMHO.


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It depends on the bar length too, a short bar on the west coast is a 32" bar, that's a lot of teeth to keep in check.

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