Chainbrake safelty question?

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Bushbow

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I have a habit of engaging the chainbrake after nearly every cut if I am going to move at all. I do it so subconciously that I don't even think about it. I am wondering if I should make sure the saw revs down first as I think I engage it sometimes before the chain stops spinning. Not WFO but after the cut with my finger off the trigger but still spinning.

Is this hard on the saw, chain, brake?

It is a bit of my safety overkill and I want to take good care of my tools almost as much as my body parts.

Thanks
 
If it's idling down, the wear should be minimal. I know a lot of cutters who do the same thing. I'd rather replace a brake band or clutch drum for a few bucks, than a trip to the ER anyday.
 
I have a habit of engaging the chainbrake after nearly every cut if I am going to move at all. I do it so subconciously that I don't even think about it. I am wondering if I should make sure the saw revs down first as I think I engage it sometimes before the chain stops spinning. Not WFO but after the cut with my finger off the trigger but still spinning.

Is this hard on the saw, chain, brake?

It is a bit of my safety overkill and I want to take good care of my tools almost as much as my body parts.

Thanks

Let us know how long it lasts. If you're the only one using it, it might not be an issue.

There was a thread which I can't find about I believe about a fleet of MS361 (or somewhere around that model) that were used for training. They were taught to engage the brake as you have indicated. The saws developed fractures in their housings where the chain brake pivot pin mounted. They fought Stihl because they wanted Stihl to replace the saws or parts under warranty. If I recall correctly, Stihl came back and said that the saws were being misused. Of course, I believe these saws had a few/a lot hours on them too. Another thing I recall about those saws is that they had an additional brake lever somewhere.

Some of my saws were made before the chain brake was created. Some of them it was an optional item. A couple of my saws are new enough so it's a standard item.

I don't use it during starting. I only use it if I am going to put the saw down idling and the chain might turn and dig into the dirt.
 
Yeah you should definitely let it idle down before engaging. One of the principal purposes of the break is to prevent you from killing yourself during a heavy kickback. Not just a parking break for when you have to take a piss.
 
parts are cheap, and plentyful, legs are expensive and you can never find an exact match... That being said, minw gets hit by accident some times, its rare that I actually engage it on purpose, but I have had it save may skull a few time on kick backs...
 
parts are cheap, and plentyful, legs are expensive and you can never find an exact match... That being said, minw gets hit by accident some times, its rare that I actually engage it on purpose, but I have had it save may skull a few time on kick backs...

Right there you have the simplest explanation as to whether or not to use it...

If you feel you don't need to, fine... but if you think you should, body parts are worth a lot more.
 
I can't imagine being so scared of my saw, to snap the brake on after nearly every cut. Maybe I'm the black sheep here, but that's completely nuts.

Tony
 
I can't imagine being so scared of my saw, to snap the brake on after nearly every cut. Maybe I'm the black sheep here, but that's completely nuts.

Tony

I'll engage mine if walking thru brush, etc... One class I took said to engage it everytime you move your feet. While I agree it might be a bit of overkill, I wouldn't call it being scared of the saw, just respecting it. Much like a loaded gun. When I'm out hunting, my safety is on when I'm walking.. period.. This is no different IMO....
 
I use the chain brake all the time. Starting the saw. Anytime I take more than a step or two. I usually let the chain coast down a bit before engaging it, unless I am testing it or demonstrating how it works. Engaging it regularly at wide open throttle has to put some stress on components.

I think that there were some other factors involved in the situation that manyhobies mentioned. At worst, you might be looking at replacing some parts a bit sooner (brake band? clutch drum? rim sprocket?). At the other end, one saw laceration while you are spacing out waiting for the chain to stop could ruin your whole day.

Philbert
 
As long as you aren't being careless and stupid a chain brake isn't really necessary on small Chainsaws. It gives those who aren't very educated about Chainsaws a false sense of security, just like "safety" chains.
 
For frequent use like that I would think one should have the kind of lever with two pivot points not the kind with only one side and a paddle like thing going horizontal. Locking the brake is required by some employers perhaps job safety rules isn't it? Before walking engage the lock. Husky has a trio brake I found an on line promotional video for it.

fran
 
Thanks all - and for the record it is not "fear" but respect and I am not hammering it on as the saw gets to the end of the cut so I imagine it is idling down a bit. I just hit it with my wrist and don't think about it. I don't always use it but if I am moving much it is like the safety on my gun(Good analogy) it just goes on automatically.

I actually find I do it with my little Husky more than my bigger Stihl because it engages easier.

Was just trying to figure out if it is hard on the saw. Seems like it is ok if the saw revs down a bit and much better to replace a few saw parts than leg parts. I always wear my gear too - call me safety man but I like my parts.
 
Before (just before) I started wearing leg protection, I cut my leg by walking into an idling down chain. (saw got tangled in kudzu vine and I moved but it didn't). It wasn't a large saw but 14 stitches and $1100 dollars later I learned my lesson.
 
I use what my dad taught me and what he learned from the hand crews he worked with. It is after cutting a limb slide the bar along the log slowing and stopping the chain. It takes some getting used to but its second nature to me now. Downfall it does scar up the log a tad, I don't know how rite it is but its worked for me.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
 
The wood brake!

I thought I was the only one that thought of that one! slowing the chain down with the wood is a excellent way to increase the safety while limbing one out. Not as practical blocking...

Setting the brake that frequently is "a little over the top". Still better than the 14 stitches for darn sure. When working in a brush pile, I will set the brake frequently while moving around. Once in clearer ground I just use the saw.

If it was to be designed to be set on every cut it would be a softer engage. The thing is designed that it will stop the chain immediately even if at full throttle. I would thing that setting it once in awhile is a good idea, know it works and all that...
 
If it was to be designed to be set on every cut it would be a softer engage. The thing is designed that it will stop the chain immediately even if at full throttle. ...

I think that it has a few uses (aside from the hand guard): 'emergency brake', 'parking brake', 'safety', chain holder for filing, etc.

There are some saws with a 'softer engage' for regular use:

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Philbert
 
IIRC, most chainsaw mfgs recommend daily testing of chain brake, like by dropping bar tip @ WOT.

Engaging it with the negligible energy stored in decelerating chain would be inconsequential. Chain cuts are not; except once when I sliced some new jeans trying to keep decelerating chain away from others. Sure changed my way of thinking about this.

Macho men remove chain brakes to boost performance. God bless 'em.

Then there's Darwin's List.
 
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