Chainsaw sharpening

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Laird

Nemo me impune lacessit
Joined
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West Central Indiana
Try as I may, I am unable to correctly sharpen a chainsaw chain with a round file. It must be a physical disability because I am unable to cut a straight line with an non-powered miter box as well. I've had these problems for 25+ years. I solved the miter box problem by purchasing a power box. I'm thinking to solve the chain sharpening problem the same way. I'm tired of paying someone $5-7 each time I tip the saw into the dirt. Any suggestions for a benchtop sharpening outfit. I would prefer to spend no more than $150-250. I'm putting in an OWB this fall and will be spending plenty of time in the woods.
 
WELCOME TO A.S. I HAVE A CHAIN GRINDER FROM HARBOR FREIGHT. IT WORKS FOR ME......BUT BY NO MEANS IS IT A "GREAT" SHARPENER. I JUST USE IT TO STRAIGHTEN UP A CHAIN IF IT GETS ROCKED UP. I THEN BREAK OUT THE FILES AND GIVE IT THE FINISHING TOUCHES. WHAT PART OF INDIANA ARE YOU FROM. I AM JUST NORTH OF BROOKVILLE. STEVE:cheers:
 
Don't feel bad it takes practice, practice practice, after about 2 years I finally got it down, now I believe it is the only way to go. Have someone who knows really give you a good lesson. Btw 2 things that really helped me are tighten the chain good and tight, you can back it off again after your done sharpening, and second lock the chain brake, this I found really helped me, unlock to move the chain then lock to sharpen.
 
Welcome to the forum! I had a wicked time figuring it out myself and butchered a few chains in the process but keep trying and once you get it right it's a great feeling. It takes some practice. Here's a few tips that I found helpful.

1. Make absolutely sure you have the right size file and guide for your chain.
2. Get a brand new new chain so you'll have all the correct angles to learn from.
3. Run the file as lightly as possible on the chain so you can mirror what was done from the factory. Kind of like using tracing paper. If you feel any resistance stop and readjust your approach.
4. Use long, smooth, slow movements with the file and pay close attention to what position your hand and the file are in when your right on the mark.

Good luck and don't give up.
 
Other side of the state near Rockville. If I ever touch a chain with a file it will no longer cut straight. I've tried file guides and freehand and used to practice on every dulled chain I used with the same result. Afterwards I would end up with a cupped cut so bad it would bind up. I haven't tried in a few years and it was no big deal to take them in to have them sharpened, but with a OWB I'll be doing alot more sawing.
 
Spend 90.00 bucks at northern tool on their grinder and you'll swear the lord hand delievered it himself you will be so pleased with it!!
 
I have mine professionally sharpened by my Husky dealer,but between i keep them sharp with a round file,and I know this may not be "right",I chuck it up on the end of my 18 volt Dewalt in 3rd gear,and it very quickly puts a nice edge on the chain without a lot of time. I realize this isnt the right way to do it,but it works for me,and sometimes my guys hit dirt or arent careful with the saw,and it bounces around in the utility cart and gets dull.If they are really bad,and i cant get them to the dealer,ive used my air powered die grinder,and i get great results from it,although i hate to use it.
 
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Other side of the state near Rockville. If I ever touch a chain with a file it will no longer cut straight. I've tried file guides and freehand and used to practice on every dulled chain I used with the same result. Afterwards I would end up with a cupped cut so bad it would bind up. I haven't tried in a few years and it was no big deal to take them in to have them sharpened, but with a OWB I'll be doing alot more sawing.

Are the chains sharp and just don't cut straight? Could be the bar on your saw if it's going side ways that bad? Worn out/loose slot on your bar will do that everytime because the chain "folds" whenever you start too put any pressure on it. If it's not too badly worn you can have it squeezed together or swaged with a swaging tool.

The Northern tool is a clone of the Oregon 511A and many guys here have them and like them. I bought a Speed Sharp for $125 on e-bay and have been happy with it. Just remember to use a really light touch and just skim each tooth. :cheers:
 
I have mine professionally sharpened by my Husky dealer,but between i keep them sharp with a round file,and I know this may not be "right",I chuck it up on the end of my 18 volt Dewalt in 3rd gear,and it very quickly puts a nice edge on the chain without a lot of time. I realize this isnt the right way to do it,but it works for me,and sometimes my guys hit dirt or arent careful with the saw,and it bounces around in the utility cart and gets dull.If they are really bad,and i cant get them to the dealer,ive used my air powered die grinder,and i get great results from it,although i hate to use it.


very interesting idea! How many times can you touch up with the dewalt before you start to cut crooked? Any tips on how to do that with both the left and right side cutters staying equal?
 
Laird: Don't give up on the hand sharpening just yet. I also went many years unable to do a decent job with a hand file and got pretty disgusted with myself in the process. Discovered that my biggest problem was in Not having anyone qualified to really show me the proper techniques. Because I really didn't know the right way to approach the task at hand, it didn't matter how many times I tried, I still was unsuccessful and didn't really understand why. once I discovered this site I read every post I could find on sharpening with a hand file and after implementing what I had learned, I was turning out a very satisfying filing job within two weeks. I do my chains right on the saw and clamp the saw in a large vise on my workbench. I make sure the chain is quite tight to begin with to cut down on lateral movement while I am working it out. I also use a file guide to hold my file and keep me aligned with the correct angle for the chain. My guide is a Stihl model and seems to work great for me. I also use a piece of lumber crayon to mark my starting tooth on each side so I don't accidentally over-file a tooth. The only other thing I would add is to use sharp files, keep them clean, and wear gloves. Yes, it does take practice but if you learn the right approach up front, success will come sooner than you might think. I know it did for me and it was a very satisfying moment indeed. I don't claim to be a professional hand filer at this point but I know I can do a good job on my saws wherever and whenever I need to now without running to the saw shop and waiting days for a chain to be done. Everything you need to know is on this site, You just have to take it in, digest it, and put it into action.

Maplemeister :chainsaw: :cheers:
 
Get a stihl or Oregon file guide it fits onto the file and regulates the hight and the angles are marked on the guide
http://www.oregonchain.com/faq.htm#sharpening

:agree2: :agree2: :agree2:

This will teach you how to sharpen. It really isn't all that time consuming, is pretty accurate, and won't eat your chain nearly as quickly as a grinder. The Oregon guide doesn't appear as robust as the Granberg or Stihl, but less expensive. The Granberg is a little more, and the Stihl is $$.

After you do this for a while, you might be able to touch up freehand.

These days I do it ALL freehand, find it quicker, and chains just as sharp.
 
WELCOME TO A.S. I HAVE A CHAIN GRINDER FROM HARBOR FREIGHT. IT WORKS FOR ME......BUT BY NO MEANS IS IT A "GREAT" SHARPENER. I JUST USE IT TO STRAIGHTEN UP A CHAIN IF IT GETS ROCKED UP. I THEN BREAK OUT THE FILES AND GIVE IT THE FINISHING TOUCHES. WHAT PART OF INDIANA ARE YOU FROM. I AM JUST NORTH OF BROOKVILLE. STEVE:cheers:

Steve, I'm just a little farther north at Mooreland,right next to Summit Lake.
 
Other side of the state near Rockville
im about 30 or so miles north of rockville...straight up hw 41. Seems to be several representatives from Indiana on this message board.
 
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I have a Silvey. I love it. I had my other one for 20 years and it finally died on me. Got another one but costs a lot more than $150.
 
very interesting idea! How many times can you touch up with the dewalt before you start to cut crooked? Any tips on how to do that with both the left and right side cutters staying equal?

I can touch it up many times,usually will get a hard weeks cutting easily out of it. It it starts to cut crooked,I go a touch heavier on the sides that its cutting away from,and all is well.My dealer trues them up anyway,when i get time to run them down.
 
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